14mm pump and 4mm camplate build

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14mm pump and 4mm camplate build

Postby bgilbert » Fri Sep 19, 2008 12:29 pm

Thinking about using the complete 114 pump I have sitting around for a 14mm head/rotor and 4mm camplate build. Not that I need the fuel, heck I still need more air :roll:. So why is it they say you can't or shouldn't use them both together? Anything else inside the pump one should replace while it's apart? I have a return spring kit, cam roller kit, to use while in there.

Or should I not risk building it and just send it to CK :shock: :lol: ;) ?
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Postby VEfreak » Fri Sep 19, 2008 3:55 pm

Well i know that 14mm heads don't like to be revved high. If you add to that a longer stroke on the plunger it really won't like it. The longer travel means the pump will have less tolerance for rpm's. Plus, i would venture to say it'll create more heat to.
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Postby cummins king » Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:34 pm

haha, funny,
so far nobody (if i am wrong please prove it) to date has had the 14mm and 4mm cam plate work togther, and last i heard the ears on the 4mm cam plate had sheared off.
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Postby JAyers » Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:00 am

Give Gary Cowwin (SP) a call at Scheid. Hes says he has acouple out running around that are working just fine. He can make em work, mine worked for a little while (about 400miles and 4 dyno runs) but it died on the last run of the dyno. :cry:
93 W250...balanced, ported, and fresh. Equipped with 14mm h/r, A1000 supply, Hamitons 188/220, T4 stainless manifold, s360/68/.91ar - s475/74/1.1ar twins, and Kennys dd clutch.
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Postby fergavs » Sat Sep 20, 2008 10:57 am

My pump tech can make it work. He had it all within spec on the pump stand. There are afew things that need to be done internally to get the timing and pressures correct. Ill shoot you a pm.
Last edited by fergavs on Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1990 Dodge D350 Duallie 2wd, Piers ported, ringed,HD springed,ARP studed head,S300,PS IC,Custom EDM's,Max Spool 2 Cam,BD built 47RH auto,Meth,5" Exaust, AD 150, Punched VE Mod,2 Stage Nos,etc.
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Postby bgilbert » Sat Sep 20, 2008 11:41 am

VEfreak wrote:Well i know that 14mm heads don't like to be revved high. If you add to that a longer stroke on the plunger it really won't like it. The longer travel means the pump will have less tolerance for rpm's. Plus, i would venture to say it'll create more heat to.

My KTA 14mm pump has made 450rwhp at 3500rpm and 350rwhp at 3800rpm with two different turbo configurations. So I guess at what point they don't like to be revved? 4k? To pull a good HP number on the dyno we need power from 2k to 3k. So if the 14mm/4mm combo will survive there, I'll be fine with that.

I knew Scheid was selling the two parts for awhile now. I just hadn't had the money to get them just yet :roll: . Seems the pumps that get assembled and never see a pump stand, last the longest 8) . That said, I would assemble the pump myself or see if KTA would be interested. I really want to do one myself though.

Sounds like Josh's 14mm/4mm pump would've lived if the pump didn't run away on the dyno. Josh did you have the fuel screw pretty maxed out or did something let go inside?
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Postby fergavs » Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:58 pm

I'm almost positive it is the small test injectors on the pump stand that is killing the pumps. The techs like to use their "test" injectors to calibrate the pump but they are to small causing to much internal pressure which kills the internals.

When my local tech built my 14mm/4mm combo he had it on the test stand at 1500 stand rpm (3000 engine) and it was fine. It wasnt till he swapped out the injectors that he had problems. I probably wont be tossing in another camplate till this winter now but I will post once its done. Obviously if Schied is building them it can be done!!!
1990 Dodge D350 Duallie 2wd, Piers ported, ringed,HD springed,ARP studed head,S300,PS IC,Custom EDM's,Max Spool 2 Cam,BD built 47RH auto,Meth,5" Exaust, AD 150, Punched VE Mod,2 Stage Nos,etc.
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Postby JAyers » Sat Sep 20, 2008 8:25 pm

mine was pretty close to maxed out w/ the power screw. But something happened with the fuel control collar, the little ball on the bottom of the levers was ripped out and thats when she ran away.
93 W250...balanced, ported, and fresh. Equipped with 14mm h/r, A1000 supply, Hamitons 188/220, T4 stainless manifold, s360/68/.91ar - s475/74/1.1ar twins, and Kennys dd clutch.
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Postby DTanklage » Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:43 am

very sorry to hear about this josh

know you had a lot of time and a little cash (hehe) in that sucker

what a bummer

anyone gonna stand behind their work or did it come with my typical hp warrentee?

(lifetime/unlimited miles - or until you start the motor, which ever comes first)
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Postby JAyers » Thu Sep 25, 2008 1:06 pm

unfortunatly no, im am the warrenty. lol....i knew when a buddy and i were building it id be out $800 if something happened....O Well, im building a second one now. But its not gonna have a 4mm camplate.
93 W250...balanced, ported, and fresh. Equipped with 14mm h/r, A1000 supply, Hamitons 188/220, T4 stainless manifold, s360/68/.91ar - s475/74/1.1ar twins, and Kennys dd clutch.
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Postby cummins king » Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:49 pm

Has anybody thought of lighting up the plunger on the 14mm head, maby change the metal to somthing stronger and lighter thats just as hard.
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Postby VEfreak » Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:03 pm

beryllium? Very toxic to machine, but it can be done. light and strong. It's on the brittle side. Expensive too. But potential is there.
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Postby PToombs » Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:20 pm

VEfreak wrote:beryllium?


Isn't that what they use in nukes? :shock: I think titanium would be good enough.
pete

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Postby VEfreak » Sat Sep 27, 2008 10:48 am

they use it in nukes but it's not radioactive. Titanium wears out fast. You would have to have it coated with something. They can't even use it to replace human joints with out it being coated because it wears out.
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Postby mprmn08 » Mon Sep 29, 2008 5:10 pm

Titanium is just as strong as steel but its just lighter. so how would it wear out faster?
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