Camplate R&D

How to make it go fast

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Postby DTanklage » Wed Feb 20, 2008 4:59 pm

what kinda trans you plan on running in your 2000+ ft lb torque 6000+ lb street truck?

lol
slowass 2nd gen - ADRL pro mod bike #798 - 4.26 @ 175 mph (1/8m) - how quick do you wanna go?
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Postby ford69557ci » Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:47 pm

a nv 4500 with a larger input shaft and the truck its goin in is a 91 4x4 and even with the goose hitch and big rear bumper it only comes in at 5650 so after the tail gate rear bumper goose hitch and most of the interior are gone it should be around 5000 oh and those heavy steel wheels
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
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Postby KTA » Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:09 pm

So is that waht you ordered a 13mm PZ governed at 6000rpm? Sounds like fun. :lol:
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby ford69557ci » Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:25 pm

yep but mines only goved to 5500 that should be plenty this pump has 14mm of cam lift to so it should toss out alot of fuel if i dont make power atleast i will kill all the sqeeters in mo lol
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:43 pm

ford69557ci wrote:
yep but mines only goved to 5500 that should be plenty...

lol



yea, plenty to grenade your motor in no time at all
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Postby ford69557ci » Wed Feb 20, 2008 8:26 pm

not if its balanced good and good bolts and studs are used along with some polishin on the rodas and maybe loosin some weight off the pistons
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:51 pm

i hope you are right!

wish you the best of luck with it

it just sounds like an awful lot of power dude

an awful lot
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Postby ford69557ci » Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:57 am

Everyone told me my s10 would never see the 8.00 region and so far on a hot tune with good traction i have gone 7.89. I cooked a piston doin it but at least I made it and this truck still drives on the street. After several years of buildin drag boat motors you learn how to keep a large cubic inch higher rpm engine together. Dont forget my little small block makes alot more power than a 6bt at alot more rpm. On my 7.89 run I went through the traps at 8600. Even though the parts are not as heavy all it takes is attention to detail to keep an engine like that together and I think the same thing applies to the 6bt Cummins. Don im pretty sure that really has to apply to the smaller cubic inch bike engines turnin 11k plus. I built a turbo gsxr1000 for a guy and it took several combos to keep it together but once we got it fast and stayin together he had to go off an get drunk and kill himself on it. I really wish i could have found out what it ran. From a race engine perspective look at all the bottom end parts of one of these engines. Without spendin alot of money like i have on the s10 engine there is alot to be had just out of factory parts. I have tor down several 24v 5.9's that had 500 000 plus and the cranks still look like new and thats movin a 20 000lb bus around for all of those miles. Look at my 91. Upgraded turbo, w/m, nitrous with 60lbs of boost and it went almost 30 000 worth of hard drivin like that on a factory head gasket even though i torqed it to 160ftlb it still lived for a while. While most of those runs were done at a lower rpm it took a spike of over 5000 on 60lbs of boost to finally kill the stock unbalanced 180 000 mile bottom end. I have seen some of the "race prep" that alot of these larger well know diesel shops do on thier high power diesel pull engines not mentioning any names but if I put my little 358" s 10 engine together like that it wouldnt even make a full pass. I see some of these big time engines goin together with a dull finish on the crank??? I make my crank guy make it look like a mirror finish or he does not get paid. Believe it or not at a high load and high rpm thats make a difference if your bearings last or if they fail and it also mandates how long it will last at high hp ratings. Another thing. I see some cyl bore finishes that make me sick along with simple thing like rustolem on the inside of the block. It really does help with oil return and less windage at higher rpm reduces heat and makes power, but i never see anybody doing these things with a Cummins. Another thing that bothers me is the intake side of the cyl head on a Cummins. If i ever quit killin money on my trucks and boats i will buy a digi cam and show ya'll just how much there is to be opened up on a 12v cyl head on the intake side. Most high hp guys never do it though??? If you can make power through engine efficiency then it is less load on the internals and that is what keeps a true high performance street engine together. Sure anybody can cram a butt load of fuel and clean it up with some big turbos and alot of nitrous but that is alot more strain on an engine than doin it the right way. On a hot tune with 42lbs of boost, sunoco 120, and an ic full of dry ice my tiny v8 chevy dynoed at 1730 hp at the wheels and is still together. So i dont see with the right prep work and attention to details why a 6bt cummins cant do the same? And it should do the same because my little gas engine makes that kinda power due to airflow and research instead of a ton of boost and nitrous. That is what kills the high hp street driven Cummins, not enough air for given amount of fuel and trying to use to much power adder to overcome volumetric losses. Power adders may seem great but they are alot harder on an engine than one that make its power efficiently. These few simple things are the reason why my crazy high hp street engine should stay together. I think my 1100hp engine should do just fine. Sorry bout the long post I just had to get that out there.
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
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Postby KTA » Thu Feb 21, 2008 6:13 am

How do you get stock bolts torqued to 160ft-lb?? I have tried torquing past 130ft-lb with no succses, most head bolts click off at 130ft-lb some wont come up to torque at that so I switch them out and try again. I have tried at 140, and never got any to come up to torque, when I put 2 full turns on a bolt trying to go from 130-140 and I can't get it to click I know the bolt has permanently deformed and is no longer the spring it was meant to be, but is now a stretched spring that won't go back.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby swank » Thu Feb 21, 2008 7:28 am

i thought all the internals were shotpeened for a purpose?? or is that just the rods?
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Postby DTanklage » Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:25 am

i was wondering that too brian

maybe ford is full of it

lol

you dont shot peen journals, the smoother the better
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Postby DTanklage » Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:27 am

ford, if your trucks best is really 7.89 we are gonna have to do a grudge match

my bikes best is 7.89

too weird

what was your mph?
slowass 2nd gen - ADRL pro mod bike #798 - 4.26 @ 175 mph (1/8m) - how quick do you wanna go?
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Postby swank » Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:06 am

gotcha, i didn't realize he was talking about the journals.
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curious

Postby seeker1056 » Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:10 am

Very curious
With soooo much power on hand why is the the S10 truck so slow??
1700+ hp should have you solidly into the mid - low 7's easily I would think from what i have seen
or u jus babyin it lol
;)
ps - I agree with your race build statements on fit and finish vs longevity

As to why the so called race shops keep things a little this side of perfect - well they would soon be outa business if every "race" motor out the gate lasted for 2-3 seasons instead o needin freshened every 35-40 passes

Thats why we started buildin our own engines - we couldnt afford, nor understand the race shop build practise

PSS - I be jus teasin about yur truck bein slow lol
91 F350 5.9 Cummins, Custom built VE 12v

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Postby oldestof11 » Thu Feb 21, 2008 4:04 pm

I agree with Ford. Anyone now can cram fuel into a engine, and clean it up. But try and keep that 1200hp in that range together for more than 3 miles, using that hp.

The thing with keeping the cranks smooth is critical. I have worked in a machine shop. The tools that we made and sharpened had a good amount of chrome in them. The boss says that that is like a little oiler. The smoother it is, the more the chrome can keep things smooth by its oil. Try cutting a piece of steal that has a slightly rougher grind on it wher the chrome is not as pronounced vs one that is shiny smooth. The shiny ones out lasts the rougher ones a good amount. I know. I had some cutters come back where I didn't clean them up. The piece they were doing was not near as good of a cut as one that is shiny. Chrome has a very minute amount of oil in it. Why do you think it is shiny? All metal has some chrome in it. It has nice strength/stress properties. Not coated metals but one where it is fused into the metal during the making. That is why the cranks need to be smooth, nice mating plus some natural oil elements.

That is my $.02

Jon
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