How much water to run? McMaster Carr nozzles?

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Postby Begle1 » Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:09 pm

Alright, I bought a belt-driven hydraulic pump.

Image

What do I do now? Spend $300 in solenoids and valves?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Fnschlaud4620 » Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:25 pm

dang, and I thought I was an impusive buyer :shock:

For you saying a few post ago you were not and expirenced fabricator,
now you have to build a bracket to mount it where the AC compressor would go. Then you have to make it use a serpentine pully, athat way you dont have to buid a seperate belt drive and tensioner system.

A draw back I can see is that pump will be running all of the time, you will constantly be bypassing the pressure when you are not making boost. It may effect pump life.

That is why I am going the 12v route, it is more on demand and will only work when the hobbs switch commands it on.

Any how, You will need a resivor to supply the pump, and a return back to the tank being it will be running contstantly. Also you will need the manifold, solenoids, hobbs switches, jets and everything else. On the high pressure side you will need hydraulic hose and fittings.

Another draw back is the constant run pump will rob you of power.

Good luck
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Postby Begle1 » Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:43 pm

I figure that for $.99, I could at least use it reach the top shelf...

Anybody with a belt-driven snow plow pump runs it all the time, right? Isn't that what that thing is?

How am I going to want to route the return? I'm going to need some kind of selector valve, right? To select either to return to the tank, or to feed it to the solenoids? I'm sure that'd cost a pretty penny.

You say that I can somehow modify the pump to decrease pressure? I'd probably have to get it rebuilt anyways, that'd probably cost a few dollars too... Think I could control pressure effectively with pulley size?

Mounting shouldn't be too hard, it looks about the same size as an air conditioner... Sure that ain't a serpentine pulley on there already? Or is it a V-belt? I can't really tell.

I figure in the .1% chance it ever gets installed, I'll use the constantly circulating fluid to, erm, do something else when I'm not injecting it.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby seeker1056 » Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:12 pm

I am curious?

Why do you need in excess of 100-150 psi water injection pressure?

So long as your above boost pressure by 20 or 30 psi, the water will still atomize to a fine spray will it not?

Once its in the combustion chamber the motor aint gonna care wether the mist is "fine" or "finer" - its still gonna turn to steam........

If memory serves KTA tried all kinda water injection from pre turbo to after with mixed results. Some rather ingenious setups to be sure

tell me more about this 600 psi stuff
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Postby Begle1 » Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:28 pm

I guess that more pressure just gives you better atomization, which under really high airflow conditions makes a worthwhile difference.

Probably not worth it at all for me... But the big HP guys do it that way, so I'm sure there's a big advantage.

I'd still like feedback on what nozzles I should run with my 150 PSI Shurflo. :lol:
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby GO OVRIT » Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:46 pm

What do you think the water temp is going to be with it constantly being run through that pump?
92 W250 ext cab 518, big sticks, a-1000, PDR HX40, 4" exhaust w/aeroturbine, pump tweaked, K&N filter Tims Cooler tubes and 3" i/c, gauges
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Postby Begle1 » Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:53 pm

I don't know. How hot does hydraulic fluid get when your snow plowing?

What if I empty the relief valve into a shower nozzle in the reservoir? Just break it up into droplets enough to cool it down a tad?/
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Postby cummins king » Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:21 pm

i dot know if you have princes auto down there but for 200 bucks you can buy a 12v eletric pump and tank capable of pushing 2500psi
93 4X4 auto
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Postby Fnschlaud4620 » Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:24 pm

seeker1056 wrote:I am curious?

Why do you need in excess of 100-150 psi water injection pressure?



What you are trying to achieve is heat asorbation from the charge air into the water.

It has to do with the change from a liquid to a gas, the higher the pressure, water is more easily changed from a liquid to a gas and it can asorbe heat from the charge air more efficiently.

I may not be explaining it perfectly, but if you do a thermodynamics search you can read all about it.
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Postby Begle1 » Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:42 pm

cummins king wrote:i dot know if you have princes auto down there but for 200 bucks you can buy a 12v eletric pump and tank capable of pushing 2500psi


I've never heard of one. I can't find "Prince's Auto" on Google??

Hydraulic pump?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby seeker1056 » Mon Apr 07, 2008 3:56 am

Princess Auto not Prince's

It a mens nirvana for tools n gadgets and cheap
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Postby cummins king » Mon Apr 07, 2008 5:01 am

seeker1056 wrote:Princess Auto not Prince's

It a mens nirvana for tools n gadgets and cheap


LOL,

heres the site you can order on line
http://www.princessauto.com/PAcountry.c ... N&INF=home

any yes hydrolic
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Postby Begle1 » Mon Apr 07, 2008 8:40 am

The cheapest 12 volt "power pack" that I see in their catalog costs $399, but flows 2.3 GPH at 2,500 PSI. Like, way overkill.

Maybe I should be looking at 12 volt pressure washers for something more economical.

BUT, they also have electric clutches for pulley pumps. That how snow plow guys do it? Sounds to me like I gotta find an electric clutch of eBay.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Begle1 » Mon Apr 07, 2008 8:43 am

Here's a unit that screams like it wants to be used.

http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-Hydraulic-Clutc ... dZViewItem

Still way overkill though... But when it's cheaper than a Harbor Freight powerwasher who cares?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby seeker1056 » Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:52 am

I know full well what water does for a motor from latent heat to steam power production

The only thing i can see that excess pressure does is increase the amount of water injected which is easier done with several nozzles, or larger nozzels

Keep in mind more pressure does not always equate with finer atomization, and in fact can result in coarser atomization at a certain point as the water is forced past the nozzzel tip.

Saturation is not what your looking for either as that in itself can allow the water coalesce into bigger drops.

Or are you adding so many nozzles it takes 600 psi base pressure to supply minimum atomization pressure to the excess number of nozzels being used?
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