Need Some Help Tuning The Truck

[fergavs]

I'm not so sure the timing needs to stay stock with nos. I run a jumped tooth and close to the stock mark with 6-18's and I run two stages of nitrous. I cant remember the jet sizes but they are pretty big. I have no detonation or funny noises running 3500rpm+ with both stages going. I also run water/meth all the time with nice hot 50/50 mixes. Seems to be working well for me so far. As far as tuning I keep the AFC pretty high and the smoke screw backed out. I still make a lot of smoke when I stand on it but much better then it used to be. Backing the adjustments off seemed to help the motor rev up faster. Before it just smoked a lot now it actually revs fast and hard. The other things that made a world of difference is the 47rh swap, cam, and ported head. I loved my 47rh so much that I have bought another to put in my 92 4x4. Good luck.

[RSWORDS]

Right now I'm gona focus on the timing. Went ahead and ordered the timing tool

http://www.dieselvw.com/VW-Diesel-Dial-Gauge.htm

From my research 15-17 degrees of timing seems to be perfect. What does that come out to in mm on the gauge? Do I need to run more then that with the 6x16's?

[peobryant]

I'm not so sure the timing needs to stay stock with nos. I run a jumped tooth and close to the stock mark with 6-18's and I run two stages of nitrous. I cant remember the jet sizes but they are pretty big. I have no detonation or funny noises running 3500rpm+ with both stages going. I also run water/meth all the time with nice hot 50/50 mixes. Seems to be working well for me so far. As far as tuning I keep the AFC pretty high and the smoke screw backed out. I still make a lot of smoke when I stand on it but much better then it used to be. Backing the adjustments off seemed to help the motor rev up faster. Before it just smoked a lot now it actually revs fast and hard. The other things that made a world of difference is the 47rh swap, cam, and ported head. I loved my 47rh so much that I have bought another to put in my 92 4x4. Good luck.

Were you running head studs when you were usning the nitrous and timing? The reason I ask is because everyone I've talked to has said nitrous and a lot of timing will kill a stock gasket, unless you stud it. I don't think Bobby runs head studs.

[RSWORDS]

I'm not so sure the timing needs to stay stock with nos. I run a jumped tooth and close to the stock mark with 6-18's and I run two stages of nitrous. I cant remember the jet sizes but they are pretty big. I have no detonation or funny noises running 3500rpm+ with both stages going. I also run water/meth all the time with nice hot 50/50 mixes. Seems to be working well for me so far. As far as tuning I keep the AFC pretty high and the smoke screw backed out. I still make a lot of smoke when I stand on it but much better then it used to be. Backing the adjustments off seemed to help the motor rev up faster. Before it just smoked a lot now it actually revs fast and hard. The other things that made a world of difference is the 47rh swap, cam, and ported head. I loved my 47rh so much that I have bought another to put in my 92 4x4. Good luck.

Were you running head studs when you were usning the nitrous and timing? The reason I ask is because everyone I've talked to has said nitrous and a lot of timing will kill a stock gasket, unless you stud it. I don't think Bobby runs head studs.

Yeah but I do run new bolts and a new .020 gasket with teh "Garmen" method of tq... Holding 60psi and a bigish shot of nitrous so far. Gonna run that till I can find a 7mm head to work up... (port, orings, ect) I know this one wont lst for ever but its taken a beating so far!

I probably wont spary any more when I get the truck to 400hp on fuel only.

[RSWORDS]

Timing tool showed up. Any thoughts on a starting point?

[soggy]

Whatever jumping a tooth equals in mm, then probably working it toward the head a ways. On mine i jumped a tooth and started with the pump close to the stock marks, then I slammed it to the head, but it didnt like that too much so I backed it down to about a 1/2in more than stock and it really liked that. Good luck, let us know how things go.

[fergavs]

Yea I am studded and ringed. I have blown head gaskets in the past but not since I did the rings and studs properly torqued. You shouldnt even be running nos without studs unless you want to do a gasket. lol. Thats good RSWORDS truck has been holding up so well with out them. The extra timing helps my truck so much that I would actually rather have the timing then the nitrous if I had to pick one or the other. Luckily I just spay the heck out of it with lots of timing and the truck seems to love it. I did back the timing off some. I first ran the truck a tooth jumped and timed to the head and it started to sound funny, real load and tinny. It still ran hard but it just didnt seem right so I pulled it back to the stock mark and that works great.

[fergavs]

Thats funny we were typing at the same time but agreed on the timing.

[GLHS]

When I checked mine with the tool and timing tape, the mm seem to translate to degrees. For instance 1.65 mm was about 16* and 2.15 mm seem to be around 21*. Not sure how accurate this is but that is what my timing tape shows.

I would start at 1.65 or 1.75 mm. Drive it for a while then jump up to 2.05 mm and see what kind of difference you can feel, if any.
From what I could tell, the slots of the pump will allow for approx. .75 mm minimum to 2.25 maximum. To go beyond that you will need to jump a tooth.

Is your valve lash adjusted correctly? I run mine at .008 intake and .016 exhaust. KTA runs .006 and .012 but he checks it often making sure it does not get tighter from the valve wearing into the head.

I would swap that tranny over to a 47 lock up in a heartbeat.

[RSWORDS]

Yea I am studded and ringed. I have blown head gaskets in the past but not since I did the rings and studs properly torqued. You shouldnt even be running nos without studs unless you want to do a gasket. lol. Thats good RSWORDS truck has been holding up so well with out them. The extra timing helps my truck so much that I would actually rather have the timing then the nitrous if I had to pick one or the other. Luckily I just spay the heck out of it with lots of timing and the truck seems to love it. I did back the timing off some. I first ran the truck a tooth jumped and timed to the head and it started to sound funny, real load and tinny. It still ran hard but it just didnt seem right so I pulled it back to the stock mark and that works great.

Its amazing that my truck has been holding up!

Luckly I drive teh 06 daily so this one can sit when its not running. Right now its been sitting since end of july waiting for brakes. That allows me to not feel so bad pushing it WAY beyond what i should.

I think I'm going to do the one tooth to the head and go from there.

[RSWORDS]

When I checked mine with the tool and timing tape, the mm seem to translate to degrees. For instance 1.65 mm was about 16* and 2.15 mm seem to be around 21*. Not sure how accurate this is but that is what my timing tape shows.

I would start at 1.65 or 1.75 mm. Drive it for a while then jump up to 2.05 mm and see what kind of difference you can feel, if any.
From what I could tell, the slots of the pump will allow for approx. .75 mm minimum to 2.25 maximum. To go beyond that you will need to jump a tooth.

Is your valve lash adjusted correctly? I run mine at .008 intake and .016 exhaust. KTA runs .006 and .012 but he checks it often making sure it does not get tighter from the valve wearing into the head.

I would swap that tranny over to a 47 lock up in a heartbeat.

I did my valves about 6,000 miles ago.

I would love a 47... Wanna send me one?

[crewcabxlt]

ive used the tool and run from 1.6 to 1.85 mm advance, thats all i could get without skipping a tooth. would like to know what it is in degrees.

[PToombs]

I was running mine at 1.65 and then turned it up to 2.1. It sounds kinda rattley under the hood so I'm gonna turn it back down some. Stock head gasket and I'm not in the mood to change it anytime soon.

[RSWORDS]

Anyone have any ideas on what these measurments in mm equal in degrees?

[Tacoclaw]

From what I read on here, the number in MMs averages out to about the same amount in degrees.

IE: 1.62mm=16*
or 2.10mm=21*


I may be wrong, but I remember seeing this not that long ago in someones post...

EDIT my complete lack of attention:

When I checked mine with the tool and timing tape, the mm seem to translate to degrees. For instance 1.65 mm was about 16* and 2.15 mm seem to be around 21*. Not sure how accurate this is but that is what my timing tape shows.