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by **RSWORDS** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 7:22 am

David were you able to jump teeth with out taking the pump off? if you are standing in front the truck looking at the gear which way do you turn it, clockwise or counter-clockwise?

by **BC847** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:07 am

crewcabxlt wrote:bc, glad its coming around, interesting its taking that much timing! did you come up with a total advance # in degrees? maybe you could find a local shop with a pulse timing to check it at higher rpm. im still looking for info on total degrees timing on these ve pumps.

Yeah I'm still cypherin what I'm gonna do about that. Another one of them $200 tools (adapter) that get used once every other year. :oops:

RSWORDS wrote:David were you able to jump teeth with out taking the pump off? if you are standing in front the truck looking at the gear which way do you turn it, clockwise or counter-clockwise?

The IP gear can be moved/altered with the pump in place though disconnecting the fuel and electrics has the pump come on out.

Again the way I did it was . . .

- With the IP gearing stock, like many, I had pushed the IP to the head effectively placing the pump at the extreme advanced end of the timing adjustment slots.
- So as to keep up with where I was at, I then locked the IP by way of the little locking bolt/washer thing.
- Removed the engine gear-case cover.
- Removed the IP drive gear bolt and washer.
- Using a steering wheel puller (another one of them every other year tools :roll:

) I popped the gear loose and removed it.
- Now rotate the IP to it's extreme retarded position in the timing adjustment slots.
- Now keeping up with the shaft/gear key, rocking the IP a little has the gear go back on the shaft. NOTE: The gears have an angled cut to them (I can't remember what they're called, but they're not cut straight). As such, you sorta have to rotate the gear as it goes on the shaft. Again, keep up with the key.
- Reinstall the IP drive gear/shaft washer and nut.
- Unlock the IP.
- Put it all back together.
- Further adjust the timing as needed.

Looking at the IP drive gear standing in front of the truck, one rotates the IP drive gear clockwise to advance the injection event timing.

by **RSWORDS** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:52 am

Hows you bottom end?

by **BC847** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 9:27 am

RSWORDS wrote:Hows you bottom end?

The wife says it's OK she guesses . . . . . Oh, . . wait .. :oops:

I race with 10 ~ 15psig boosted 4WD launches. At 6400lbs (ish), the 60' marks are in the mid to lower 1.8s.

Qtherwise, once things start spinning, it's OK. Certainly still smokey with no boost. Gotta watch the pedal there.

It's getting better. I think a cam will help further.

Truthfully, I think I'm on the border of having the timing advanced a bit too far. It clatters pretty good. The O-rings are most likely earning their keep now. :shock:

by **RSWORDS** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:49 am

How big of a difference you have on spool up on teh street with that much advance?

by **bgilbert** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:04 pm

I have my timing set at plus one tooth and afc housing to the head, mostly. I'm pretty sure kta said his is stock timing mark + one tooth. Josh Ayers at Scheid a couple years ago had his plus two teeth and can't remember where the pump was set, but didn't dyno very well. Along with some other changes, he backed it off to only plus one tooth and dynoed much better, around +100hp iirc. I would guess there's plenty to play with in the + one tooth and the range of the pump slots. Anymore than that will probly hurt you in the HP department.

by **RSWORDS** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:11 pm

Thanks Bill. I think I'm gonna play with this at the fire house tomorrow.

by **RSWORDS** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 1:29 pm

David what did you do to lock the pump? What you said above is not the little pin on teh back to find TDC correct?

by **BC847** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:09 pm

- Back the little bolt out some and remove the C shaped washer.
- Run the bolt back in and snug it to lock the IP drive shaft.

- To unlock the pump, put it back together like you found it with the washer in place and tighten the bolt to 10ft/lbs.

by **RSWORDS** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 6:35 pm

learn something new every day! You have to pull the whole fron the truck apart to mess with the gear or is tehre enough room?

by **BC847** » Fri Jun 12, 2009 7:57 pm

Ya gotta move the gear case cover out of the way to take out the gear. You'll spend more time dinkin with the cover than the gear.

by **RSWORDS** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 5:20 am

Cool!

So to sum this up...

-Lock the pump
-take off the cover
-pull the gear
-rotate the pump shaft a little bit clockwise
-re-install gear
-put cover on
-unlock pump

by **BC847** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 6:52 am

RSWORDS wrote:Cool!

So to sum this up...

-Lock the pump
-take off the cover
-pull the gear
-rotate the pump shaft a little bit clockwise
-re-install gear
-put cover on
-unlock pump

NO!!

- Lock the pump
- take off the cover
- pull the gear
- rotate the GEAR a little bit clockwise (or rotate the pumpshaft COUNTER-CLOCKWISE)
- re-install gear
- put cover on
- unlock pump

by **GLHS** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 8:24 am

Sounds like you need a cam Dave.

When I time the injection pump my gauge shows the lowest I can time the engine is approx. .65 mm and the max is 2.35 mm with the gear in stock position.

I will take mine apart and jump it one tooth.
I think one tooth is approx 10 degrees worth of timing. That should make my new min. and max. timing range to be 1.65-3.35 mm.
I will need to count the teeth to know for sure.

by **KTA** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 9:16 am

One gear tooth is 10deg of rotation, but that is in total refrence to the pump therefore it is 20 deg in refrence to the motor.

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I need to clean this mess up.

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