Minor mods for more power & smoke

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Minor mods for more power & smoke

Postby holeshotracing » Tue Jan 09, 2007 11:58 am

I was talking to a friend earlier today and he was telling me he gained 2-3 mpg and lots of pulling power and smoke by advancing his timing 1 notch, turning the clock in his pump one full clockwise turn, and going about 8 turns on his fuel screw. He has a '93 with a Getrag too. I'm wondering if this is sound advice and would work for me. He's running open 4" exhaust and I have open stock exhaust, and I have 100K more miles than he does. I don't want to break anything and know I need to get a pyro (have one, just need to install it) first. Any advice from you gurus out there is appreciated.
Black 1993 regular cab W250, G-trag, NP205, 262K, muffler gone, Isspro tach & boost
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Postby KTA » Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:37 pm

I highly doubt you would gain 2-3mpg from that, the timing will usually help the rest wont make alot of diffrence usually to mpg, but would effect power and heat alot. I dont know what a clock in a pump is, and most pumps cant go 8 full turns on the fuel screw. I would start with 2 turns on the fuel screw, setting the cone in the AFC to its deepest point, remove or shave the plastic washer on the cone which ever is needed to get max depth of the fuel cone int your pump. Then advance your timing by pushing the top of the pump over towards the head, of course loosen the bolts before you do that. :wink: That should make a big diffrence in the truck.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby Paccool » Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:09 pm

KTA,
I suspect he is refering to the star wheel. Like you said above, this would help the power but won't do anything for the mileage.
Stan

93 D250, PDR cam,stage 2 head w/o-rings,twin turbos HX35 on top HT3B on the bottom,modified IP,piston lift pump,DDP stage 3 injectors,gauges,ATS ported manifold,4" exhaust,5" inlet system,oversized intercooler, rear sway bar, fresh paint
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Postby BC847 » Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:11 pm

According to your Sig, you need to install a pyrometer as soon as you can so as to know when you're about to crisp the edges. ;)
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
12.67 @ 103.35
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Postby PToombs » Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:28 pm

Another tip is to loosen the injector lines before you set timing. Then tighten them when done. Relieves strain on the lines.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby holeshotracing » Thu Jan 11, 2007 12:00 pm

Thanks for the tips. I'm saving up all the info I get off these forums for when my husband gets ambitious and wants to work on my truck. :)

I have another possibly stupid question--I understand there is no silencer ring on the pre-1994 engines. But I'm not hearing a lot of whistle from the turbo, like people say they get when they remove their ring. So what's the deal?
Black 1993 regular cab W250, G-trag, NP205, 262K, muffler gone, Isspro tach & boost
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Postby gman07 » Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:11 pm

holeshotracing wrote:
I have another possibly stupid question--I understand there is no silencer ring on the pre-1994 engines. But I'm not hearing a lot of whistle from the turbo, like people say they get when they remove their ring. So what's the deal?


The pre-1994 engines use the regular old H1C, which doesn't have Map Width Enhancement (MWE).

Here's an explanation of MWE (called a ported shroud housing here) http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ml?#t103_3

The switch to the WH1C was the beginning of MWE for Dodge trucks.
1992.5 W250 pump tweaked, straight pipe, gauges, 3200 Gov. spring, AFC lever partially ground, timed at 1/8", Fuel pin ground, BHAF, HTT Stage IV H1C/E 60/12wg (ported), Transgo shift kit, KDP clothes-hangered, 202,000 miles - 36psi, 1250°
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Postby PToombs » Thu Jan 11, 2007 4:45 pm

Put on a BHAF and a 4" exhaust from the turbo back. That'll make it whistle.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby wannadiesel » Thu Jan 11, 2007 5:09 pm

Get an HTT stage III or IV compressor kit if you really want to hear it whistle. :)
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

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Postby sdstriper » Fri Jan 12, 2007 3:03 am

With the BHAF and smooth ID Intake tube alone will provide desired whistle, the exhaust will help too. Pound on the skinny pedal a bit and let off, you'll hear the whistle then...

Good to see another from SD on here!
1989 D250, 727, 3.07, BHAF, 4" exhaust, Usual Suspect Gauges, tuned VE, OSPP
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Postby dpuckett » Fri Jan 12, 2007 9:03 am

Heck, mine whistles at idle with the 14cm housing and 4" pipe. Stock on the other side of the turbo.

Daniel
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Timing

Postby Flanra » Wed Jan 17, 2007 9:24 pm

Hey ya'll I have been reading alot about changing the timing on the pump by loosing the mounting bolts and moving it about a 1/8" towards the head, is there any worries about premature firing? or anything that could really damage the engine/head
1990 1st gen, 727 auto, starwheel bottomed, fuel delivery rate adj. fuel screw turned, 4" exhaust/stacked, pyro/boost 35# @ 1250*... 3" lift 36" tires...

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Postby 92 D/UNIT » Wed Jan 17, 2007 9:52 pm

an 1/8 of an inch of advance wont hurt anything. i barely noticed a difference . you will lose a small amount of go on the bottom end and gain some on the top, should lower your egt's a bit also.
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