tow rig/ dd questions

[rockbuggy4x4]

After reading a little today, I kinda figured a triple would be over kill and even a double would be a bit much. Definitely a VB. An upgrade kit or a whole VB? Also, won't I need some billet internals? Remember I'm trying to aim for 300-400 hp.

[RCCUMMINS89]

If/when you decide on some parts, let me know and I can shoot you over some quotes on what I can offer.

[rockbuggy4x4]

Ok, sounds great.

[oldestof11]

With just towing, nothing else is really needed. The billet internals are for WFO shifts with the triple disk converter locked.

For 300-350 hp, a 100% stock rebuild with an upgraded valve body or a transgo shift kit will hold just fine. To accommodate the higher line pressure, you will need an upgraded band strut. The clean-up the 2-3 shift, get an upgraded servo cover.

Above and beyond this, you are adding unnecessary upgrades for 300-350 hp truck. While you're in there, it's cheap to add more clutches to the direct (3rd gear) clutch and the overdrive brake (4th gear) clutch. An upgraded kevlar lined band and billet 4.2 ratio lever and upgraded anchor are also nice and relatively inexpensive.

The overdrive planet on all 47rh & re from diesel and V-10 applications is a steel 5 pinion planetary setup, no need to upgrade.

This guy has a drag truck and just recently added a few billet internals. Of course, he is running 11's too.

[Sutter1stgen]

With just towing, nothing else is really needed. The billet internals are for WFO shifts with the triple disk converter locked.

For 300-350 hp, a 100% stock rebuild with an upgraded valve body or a transgo shift kit will hold just fine. To accommodate the higher line pressure, you will need an upgraded band strut. The clean-up the 2-3 shift, get an upgraded servo cover.

Above and beyond this, you are adding unnecessary upgrades for 300-350 hp truck. While you're in there, it's cheap to add more clutches to the direct (3rd gear) clutch and the overdrive brake (4th gear) clutch. An upgraded kevlar lined band and billet 4.2 ratio lever and upgraded anchor are also nice and relatively inexpensive.

The overdrive planet on all 47rh & re from diesel and V-10 applications is a steel 5 pinion planetary setup, no need to upgrade.

This guy has a drag truck and just recently added a few billet internals. Of course, he is running 11's too.

Good info here. There really isn't much needed for a good towing build. I do know of one particular cab and chassis 97' with a aftermarket vb and converter that had a problem with input shafts. The truck wasn't turned up much, stock turbo, and injectors. But the lockup engagement when he towed was to harsh on the shafts. The truck was fairly loaded down as it was too. Happened 2 times before he upgraded. This is only hearsay, yet the old man I talked to wouldnt fib about something like this. He was more concerned than trying to brag about it.

[rockbuggy4x4]

Ok, so an upgraded vb, band strut, and shift kit should hold it together as long as I'm not too harsh on it or overuse the lockup. Thanks for all the help guys. I think that pretty much covers all the questions and concerns I had. Once I start ordering parts and/or have any other concerns I'll let you all know.

Edit: The trans was just rebuilt about 27k miles ago, so I'm thinking I'll just run the convertor I'm getting with it. The donor truck was said to be stock and shifted great.

[rockbuggy4x4]

So I'm getting a bunch of Autometer gauges for my truck, and WOW are they pricey! So far I'm right around $1000 for the most essential ones I need. Thinking about spending a few extra bucks for a couple more gauges and make my own gauge cluster.

[RCCUMMINS89]

What ones are you getting?

[rockbuggy4x4]

They are Autometer Ultra-Lite II. Boost, Fuel Pressure, Pyro/EGT, Oil temp, Trans temp, Diff temp, Water temp, Tach, Speedometer, Fuel Level, and Voltmeter would give me a new dash plus a few on the pillar, column, etc.

[RCCUMMINS89]

$1,000 still seems kind of steep to me.

Do you have p/n by chance?



All that aside, it'll be really nice having all brand new gauges and not guessing like the rest of us do, LOL.

[rockbuggy4x4]

$1,000 still seems kind of steep to me.

Do you have p/n by chance?



All that aside, it'll be really nice having all brand new gauges and not guessing like the rest of us do, LOL.

Lol True that. I got the part numbers from Autometer's website and looked up the price on www.jegs.com
Boost #4906 $86.99
Fuel Pressure #4963 $220.99
Oil Pressure #4921 $77.99
EGT #4945 $208.99
Oil temp #4948 $77.99
Trans temp #4949 $79.99
Water temp #4931 $106.99
Diff temp #4349 $56.99
Tachometer #4997 $199.99
Speedometer #4988 $254.99
Voltmeter #4992 $68.99
Fuel level #4910 $142.99

I'll probably buy most (if not all) of the gauges on ebay since most of them are $20+ cheaper.

[RCCUMMINS89]

$1583.88 is the total from all the gauges listed above. THAT'S A LOT OF GAUGES, LOL. I wasn't thinking you were getting everything, including the nice ones they offer

If you are interested..... I can do it for, $1435.00

so I could save you $150 if you wanted to go through The Hungry Diesel.

[rockbuggy4x4]

lol I'm not sure yet. I'm going to price all of them on ebay and a few other sites to see how much it will be. I'd like my dash, pillar, column, etc. to have a nice clean look without gauges everywhere you look. lol I'll definitely PM you RC about a few other things when I'm ready to get them.

[rockbuggy4x4]

Ok, so for all those gauges on ebay comes to about $1348.00 All but one of them are Ultra-Lite II series, so I'm going to change a few of the to match the only Ultra-Lite gauge. That should drop the price a little bit more. I'll post once I get the new part numbers.

Also, I'm trying to find an O-ring kit but can't seem to find one. Does anybody know where I could get O-rings?

[BILTIT]

o-rings for what exactly? Local parts stores usually have general o-ring kits or you can buy an o-ring splicing kit and can make them yourself.