atf lever

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atf lever

Postby cummins king » Wed Nov 07, 2007 8:21 pm

i think thats the right name for the lever if not, lever thats in the pump.
okay i have a 93 auto, tomorrow i hope i can put my 32oo spring in and i want to remove the lever, is it a big deal and how do you do it, also does anybody know were i can find instructions on how to instale the 3200 spring
thanks
joel
93 4X4 auto
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Postby Makaio » Wed Nov 07, 2007 10:03 pm

All you need to know here: http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Governor ... index.html

Take your time and you'll find it's an easy swap. There is a set of 3 pictures that show the AFC lever and the first pic has it circled for reference. Bomb on!

Aloha,
Matt
Matt
1992 W250 auto, ASA/AFE intake, H1C hybrid 60-16, Bosch 190's, Bully Dog fuel pin, 366 spring, modified pump and a 4" turbo back exhaust. Suncoast valve body plumbing 3.54's w/LSD. Autometer gauges.
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Postby ford69557ci » Wed Nov 07, 2007 11:22 pm

unless you have an upgrade turbo all removing the lever is goin to do is make it blow alot of smoke and kill your low end power. with an hx35 and pods i had to run the nos to gain power with that much fuel and it is not somethin you wanna do if you tow.
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
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Postby DTanklage » Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:55 am

i dont know about the "pc of wire so you can leave the fuel screw in" trick but there is another trick that guy didnt mention

and this one will make the whole job much easier -

after removing the 4 cover screws dont try to use needle nose pliers to remove any springs. instead push the throttle shaft down and out the bottom of the cover (holding it with your left fore finger and thumb from undernieth). that way you can remove the cover and see how the springs are hooked up to the top hat and carefully remove the gov spring while holding the top hat assem with your other hand

that is the only way i have ever done it (thank you josh) and i cant imagine doing it pb's way...

as far at the fuel screw goes mine is bottomed out so i just pull it out about 6 turns for top removal and run it back in after pump top is reinstalled

other tricks are to cut the rear end of the fuel screw off and weld a nut onto it (so you can later run it in and out using a socket) and to add some bead to the front end so you can get closer to run away

don
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Postby DTanklage » Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:59 am

ps - as far as removal of the afc lever goes - i suggest you remove it and give it a shot. nothin will give the thing more fuel than removing the lever. if you ever want to put it back in it goes in the same way it came out...

great mod for bombing but yes - it is a mod that will push your turbo way out of its map
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Postby ford69557ci » Fri Nov 09, 2007 1:34 am

thats why i used to employ happy juice lol :jumpsmile: :jumpsmile:
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
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Postby cummins king » Fri Nov 09, 2007 10:34 pm

okay just pulled the afc leaver out , acualy i broke it out, did u know its just white metal, and u can break it with a pair of vice grips, no punching it out and no messing up ur housing, i also did the 3200 spring works great, thanks makaio for the instructions, and thanks dk for the added tip worked great, and truck runns great i didn't lose any bottom end, and it doesn't smoke very much at all, maby a very little more at idel, noting major
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Postby DTanklage » Sat Nov 10, 2007 12:43 am

ummmm....

white metal?

messing up the housing?

i dont know what you are refering to

the afc lever is inside the pump top

it swivels on a pin

where the pin rides in the pump top there are balls pressed in from either side

are you sure you "broke" the afc lever out of the thing?
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Postby DTanklage » Sat Nov 10, 2007 12:45 am

ps - with the lever removed your pedal should have gotten MUCH more responsive

did it?
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Postby DTanklage » Sat Nov 10, 2007 12:59 am

ImageImage
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Postby ford69557ci » Sat Nov 10, 2007 11:17 am

and there should be a but load of low end smoke if you are runnin the stock turbo with no power adder
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
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Postby cummins king » Sat Nov 10, 2007 4:04 pm

ya that piece on the left side of the pic is what i have broke of
i really havent been able to test it yet roads have been to wet, but it feels great so far, i didn't want to remove the whole lever because i didn't have the time to do it proporly, and besides im looking for an indusrtrial pump top of a michine for my,just like the machine were demoing at work :evil:
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Postby DTanklage » Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:29 pm

dude, if you remove the top (that takes about what?, 5 mins?) all you do is put a socket or pc of pipe on the back side and knock one of the balls out with a punch. then you turn it over and hit it again and the other one falls out

then you pull the shaft, put it back in, tap the balls back in - and your done
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Postby cummins king » Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:59 am

ah what ever ,my way works to
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Postby Begle1 » Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:06 am

DTanklage wrote:dude, if you remove the top (that takes about what?, 5 mins?) all you do is put a socket or pc of pipe on the back side and knock one of the balls out with a punch. then you turn it over and hit it again and the other one falls out

then you pull the shaft, put it back in, tap the balls back in - and your done


That can be eaisier said than done. I pounded on my ball bearing for 20 minutes with a 4 pound sledge and punch before it even budged. I don't know how ball bearings can get that tight, but they can get wedged in there pretty good.

You definitely don't just tap them out. You gotta beat the crap out of them.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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