Thoughts on Triples.....

[Sutter1stgen]

Sutter, take into account that the rat is about 1/2 the weight of our trucks. Less energy is need to get it moving which means less fuel to spool them.

The 18cms make me a little nervous on spooling. I would see if I can get either 14's or 12's. If I was to do it, I would get ungated 12's and put a gate in the hot pipe to the 2 atmospheres.

I pm'd turbolvr about the subject and he said the same thing. He also added that he would only use hx35 as that he would want the most updated technology with his primaries. I've kinda put the idea on hold, and I've talked with RC about my next twin build. I just didn't want to build a set of triples and have them perform sub-par of my goals.

[DodgeFreak]

Another question not on triples but on the engine. Will the block hold up to solid motor mounts in factory location? I've read that the block will flex or something with solid but haven't confirmed anything.
I could make a mid mount for it also I guess or a front mount. thoughts??

[Sutter1stgen]

I'm no expert!!!!!!!! But I think the engineers designed the engine and trans to twist on a certain axis with each other. I could be way wrong and talking out the wrong end. On most full out race builds I've seen them use a front engine mounting plate, but then again its most Likely is in a more ridged, race chassis. I've talked with another first genner who was well over the 1k rwhp level, and he used two motor mounts, side by side. It allowed for natural twist but with some added security.

What brings up your motor mount question?

[DodgeFreak]

the engine I'm planning on building is going into a 77 reg cab short bed when I get a couple other projects knocked out first. my plan is to cage the truck and stiffen it up. It's going to be mostly a race truck but some what streetable is my goal. So I was thinking solid motor and trans mounts, but if the block can't hold it I'll use regular mounts or try and find poly mounts for it.

[ellis93]

If it's going to be an automatic truck,I'd go with the poly mounts. Solid mounts do horrible things to aluminum cases

[DodgeFreak]

even if the trans mounts are solid?? I've heard if the engine is solid and the trans is rubber it will twist the tail housing off but I thought if you made all mounts solid it wouldn't do that.

[RCCUMMINS89]

Go with regular mounts. IMO it'll cause a lot of issues with solid mounts

[ellis93]

even if the trans mounts are solid?? I've heard if the engine is solid and the trans is rubber it will twist the tail housing off but I thought if you made all mounts solid it wouldn't do that.

I've personally built several s10,c10 and a couple of cars that I've used deferent mounts for. The absolute worst setup I had was all solid mount. After two th350 cases I did away with it. The problem I "think" was the engine was solid and so was the trans.....but not the frame. It would move and the weak link was the rear of the trans case usually close to the trans Xmember

If your gonna box the frame and then run solid mounts you'd "probably" be ok......probably is the operative word there.

With it being a Cummins and a swaying tower of power I'd say it would be worse than any 350 or 454 Chevy motor on your vehicle.

[RCCUMMINS89]

swaying tower of power................no joke there.

I snapped off my I/c nipple (where it slides into the core support) because my engine torques so hard side to side at wot. And what I mean side to side..........is the back of the motor swings to the pass side of the truck.

[ellis93]

Even stock these things woller around pretty bad.

[DodgeFreak]

Ok let me ask you this (not arguing just getting some more facts before I decide one way or the other.) Was the truck with solid mounts mid mounted also?? And Its going to get a cage welded to the frame also. RC besides the trans issue what other issues do you see that would happen or possibly happen.

I'm really thinking hard on this because i'm going to make a spacer to run a lock up converter which got me thinking if I have a spacer made I might as well make a solid mid mount and solid motor mounts.

[DodgeFreak]

here's my plans for the truck:

Cummins with 47rh\518 converted to lockup. D70 srw maybe going with cc drw. in a 77 shortbox reg cab 2wd. Caged, thought about boxing the frame but not sure. tilt front, maybe gutted stepside later down the road, It will be 4 linked but not until I get it going and save some cash.

I'm going to have my cousin make me a spacer so I can run the lockup converter which is why I have the thought on the mid mount and solid mounts. actually it was the other way around.....I had the thoughts on a mid mount and making one thick enough to run a lockup. I already have a 2nd gen adapter plate I bought I could run, but for some reason mid mount seems appealing to me.

[ellis93]

Ok let me ask you this (not arguing just getting some more facts before I decide one way or the other.) Was the truck with solid mounts mid mounted also?? And Its going to get a cage welded to the frame also. RC besides the trans issue what other issues do you see that would happen or possibly happen.

I'm really thinking hard on this because i'm going to make a spacer to run a lock up converter which got me thinking if I have a spacer made I might as well make a solid mid mount and solid motor mounts.

No,stock frame,spaghetti noddle type. You add a cage (to the frame) and you'll take some twist out of it. But I'd still box that frame,I would think,from front motor mounts to the rear of the trans. That way theres no room for movement...
That's all opinion,idk if it would work,I'm talking out my anus on that.

[DodgeFreak]

I'm not sure either, ill try worst case is i break it and buy another trans case lol. It'll be awhile till I get it done.

[brandonmgreer]

OK... First gens, I'm new to, but drag racing, I'm not. The only way you would keep it all together would be to run 2 engine plates and box everything from the front suspension back. You would also need to make a "boxed" tranny mount. Basically a bolt in 2"x3" bar.

In all honesty, in a swb pickup... I would use the front suspension and build a custom 2x4 frame, using at least 12" of the original frame aft of the front suspension to scab to. We do this on rediculous airbag builds to resist cracking on long wheelbase trucks. On that short of a frame, and the torque you will make down low, it is amplified...

I'm guessin it is a half ton truck you will be using? swb single cab? It wont have near the frame under it either... Build it once and build it right. It is no fun getting cut out of something when you wreck it because you cheaped out on he build. Running 70 on the street in something questionable is alot different than running 140+ in a very short amount of time, especially if you can hook it up. Worst feeling in the world having a chopsaw 6" from your head cutting metal and you can't move because you're pinned to the steering wheel/dash...

Just my .02