by BC847 » Thu Jul 24, 2014 2:57 pm
- Ensure all the injectors "Pop" at the same pressure (within perhaps no more than 3bar) . . . or whatever works for you. Just make them consistent with one another.
- Make sure you're not quenching the flame with too much fuel, down low, before the turbo(s) light. ~ Lean is mean!
Cleaning up all that full throttle with no boost smoke will go a LONG way in making good power across the board. Tweak the AFC: adjusting the Star-Wheel, Smoke-Screw, and fuel-pin ramp profile so as to have a relatively clean burn of no-boost fueling all the way up to WOT fueling. ~ Lean is mean!
~ Lean is mean! This is NOT a warning as would be the case with a gasser engine (mean: melting chit). This is a NOTICE you can have Mean power running clean as compared to an over-fueled pig.
- Cough-up perhaps $75 an hour and get a couple of hours of private dyno time.
Dial-in the AFC (mainly the Star-Wheel). Dial-in the injection event timing. When dicking with the timing, try it with the KSB ON, and OFF. (That will greatly effect the sweet-spot of the static-timing). Perhaps getting groceries with the KSB OFF, and flat-out racing with the KSB ON. - In this mode, set the static timing based on the best WOT power with the KSB ON.
NOTE: Your '91 may need the 12VDC power OFF to have the KSB ON. The later IC'ed 1st gens are backward from the earlier, NON IC'ed 1st gens.
- Now, while still on the dyno, dial-in the W/M. Increase or decrease as needed for the best power, where you want it RPM wise.
ONE THING AT A TIME, verified with a dyno pull.
If you've got your mess together, tools, no stuck bolts, KNOWING how to quickly loosen/tighten the IP bolts for example, etc. You can get in a LOT of dyno runs in two hours.
EVERY time I've been to a dyno specifically doing this mess, I've left with no less than 50 WOT HP over what I arrived with.
Hope this helps.
David
1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
12.67 @ 103.35
Your basic farm truck ;)