Help Begle build a new engine without actually doing so!

[Begle1]

So I feel like I oughta get a new engine.

Work is crazy and I don't really want to go and rebuild an engine right now.

But I wouldn't mind throwing a cam and perhaps an overhead kit or windage tray or something into a running engine while I have it out of the truck.

What's the difference? I guess just that I want to avoid the black hole of a machine shop.

What are the honest chances of a "new" or refreshed head sealing on a used block with just studs?

Who sells a decent head? What all should I do to an engine once I find one?

[RCCUMMINS89]

Non i/c head.... poor chance it'll pass the magnaflux inspection.


As far as finding a head.. Personally, I bought a used head and had it gone through (for my upcoming build, a 24 valve head to boot).


After that.... Realistically, you can have an engine completely gone through with a cam for about 3 grand.

[Sutter1stgen]

I lost my second ve engine right before Xmas. I was on Craigslist for about a week. Came across a lot of VE pump engines with a lot of miles, asking top dollar. I than came across a low mileage complete storm block with a 180 pump on it for 1500$. Got a tv cable from Rockjeep73, and put a o ringed head I had rebuilt by a local shop on, swapped it in a afternoon. Funny how a complete p pump engine swap with a rebuilt Oringed head cost less than a trashed ve engine. I couldn't pass it up. If you find something up north I would be more than happy to go check it out for you.

[Tacoclaw]

I put a new, OE Cummins head on my old block. Had it mildly ported and O-ringed, but it sealed fine with studs and an OE head gasket.

I personally don't see the point in a cam. I can't say it made my truck drive much better, and it definitely didn't have benefit me proportionally to what it cost. When you're driving a single charger right to its choke like at high RPMs, I could see it being a worthwhile investment, but looking for faster spool up and whatnot, I just think the price is too high.

You can get one heck of a port job for the ~$700 a cam costs.

[Begle1]

There's no such thing as used Cummins heads that pass magnaflux inspections... I'm under the impression they all have cracked valve seats and injector bores?

As long as it holds pressure and isn't peeling up and the cracks aren't running along the bores, I'm happy. Is that not the right attitude to have?

I'm finding more p-pump motors than VE ones... I'll probably end up with one of those, and taking my VE pump and gear train off my existing engine and putting it on the new one. That should be doable, right?

And then I'll worry about injectors later.

[RCCUMMINS89]

My head has passed the magnaflux test 3 times..... no cracks. If you buy a p pump engine... I'd just run it with the p pump, but yes you can swap the stuff.

[PToombs]

Taco, if you don't like your cam I'll give you $300 for it and a good used stocker to put back in.

[Tacoclaw]

Ha! It's already in there, I won't even pull the timing cover to change the leaky main, no way I'm pulling it for that.

[Begle1]

So it looks like I'm getting a used IH short block that is in good shape.

Then I'm going to get an O-ringed, ported head from somewhere.

All I need now is a cam and some springs.


Who has had any success with VE pumps and aftermarket cams?

[RCCUMMINS89]

A lot of folk have had great success with the Hamilton 188/220 cam and a ve pump... it is what is going in my new engine.

I can help you out with those things as well.

[dazedandconfused]

BC had some dyno graphs up showing it shifted his entire power band down into the lower rpm range.

[Begle1]

What springs with the 188/220 cam?

I know I'll never be spinning faster than 4000 RPM; hell, I'd be happy with peak power between 2200 and 3200 RPM.

What valve springs? 60 pounders good for us at our relatively low RPM's?

[RCCUMMINS89]

I feel that 60#ers are plenty with a cam and a mil engine. Sub 60psi and sub 3500 rpm, I'd run 60#ers. If I wasn't doing a 24 valve head on my new engine.... I'd be running the 60s.

[93flatbed]

Depending on boost pressures yes 60's will be just fine. I'd asumme you'll be sub 60psi?

[Begle1]

I talked to Hamilton, they recommended their 188-220 camshaft, heavy duty pushrods, 165 springs and springs and retainers.

I doubt I'll ever be high enough in the RPM bands to really need the valve train stuff, but what the heck. I'm going to be calling around and looking for some prices tomorrow I guess.

That stuff with a refreshed/ ported head and new short block, then I'll just be looking for some new injectors and that should pretty much do it I reckon.