Just a little more . . . . .

[spencerdiesel]

You sir don't mess around

[BC847]

Thanks.

Feb. 02,2017:
Trying to sort-out in my head the general sequence of the mess. No need in duplicating work along the way.

- Pressure-wash the engine and bay, including underside as it sits so I don't draw back as much black goo on my knuckles.
- Remove stock/OEM oil filter/cooler cover and with a couple of bolts, replace with the marine cooler cover.
- Using few bolts, install the new assembly, less gaskets.
- Be tickled chitless because my earlier ciphering was spot-on regarding the overall fit. (Fingers crossed).
- After getting the general positioning of the assembly right, complete the fabrication of the front assembly mount (to the new oil cooler cover).
- Be pleasantly surprised that I won't have to tweak the passenger's inner fender well. (Fingers crossed).
- Cipher and complete fabrication of 5" down-pipe past the transfer-case including proper mount at transmission bell-housing. (This will take a couple of evenings, or so).
- Cipher and order parts to make hoses and, locate and fabricate remote engine lube-oil filter-head mount.
- Stand back and stare at it a while to figure out what I'm missing . . . . . like where to install those bungs for inter-stage drive-pressure and boost-pressure for example . . .
- Remove entire new assembly including the marine oil cooler cover.
- Install those stupid bungs!
- Blast all hot-stuff, inside and out with 120grit Aluminum-Oxide.
- Apply internal ceramic coat as appropriate and oven-cure.
- Apply external ceramic coat as appropriate and allow one full week to air-cure.

While the ceramic mess is curing:
- Remove the weeping ( ) block freeze-plugs along with the stock/OEM block-heater.
- Recover the R12 refrigerant and remove the HVAC compressor's suction and hot-gas discharge hoses.
- Thoroughly clean the freeze-plug bores as well as all that side of the engine and bay.
- Paint as required the block and that side of engine bay.
- Install new fancy freeze-plugs.
- Install new engine block heater.
- Install new engine lube-oil cooler cover including all new gaskets, oil pressure regulator, associated hoses and remote filter head assembly.
- Initially set the waste-gate actuator.
- Install new trublo assembly including new lube-oil supply plumbing.
- Reconfigure/fabricate and install Secondary to IC plumbing.
- Cipher, fabricate and install new turbo lube-oil drain-lines.
- Install new down-pipe assembly past transfer case.


Shit!

- Figure out how in the Hell I'm gonna build the primary intake feed from the stock-pot mess, then do it.
- Complete fabrication/installation of the exhaust including a new 5" Wye-pipe for the existing bed mounted 5" temporary stack.
- Reroute and install/dress the EGT sensor (new replacement), Secondary drive-pressure sensor, Primary discharge pressure sensor as well as the associated AFC reference plumbing. (Still gotta acquire/install the Primary drive-pressure sensor and cipher how I'm gonna make the DATA logger accept it).
- Repair engine intake-log boost sensor/gauge including a new sensor (It's all over the map with BS readings for the last number of months. I hope a new sensor fixes it).
- Reconfigure/fabricate and install HVAC compressor suction and hot-gas discharge lines as well as the liquid-line and new filter/drier. Recharge system.
- Relocate and install a windshield washer fluid reservoir hopefully using the original.



It won't be as long as it has been.

[BC847]

This should work.




After all's said and done, it's gonna be pretty busy down there behind/under the alternator.

Gotta get a couple more fittings.

[DMan1198]

Man that looks like it'll be fun to figure out how to run the turbo drain lines.

[BC847]

Man that looks like it'll be fun to figure out how to run the turbo drain lines.

Nah. That'll be fairly easy as it must run close to hot stuff.



I'm gonna wait till after the wad is installed to figure out how I'm gonna run the hvac refrigerant line-set. I don't want to waste money on fittings that won't work like I want. Just gonna remove the stuff for the time being.

[BC847]

There. Remote engine lube-oil filter.

Don't like it? Git this sthi out from under my tarp!


Oh, . . . .. . wait.


Anyhoo . . it's as done as it's gonna get.

[BC847]

I lied.

As with anything reconfigured like I'm doing, there's 100 little details that you've got to keep up with don't, there'll be issues.

Yeah, well, I found detail #101. I forgot all about my turbo drain port down there on the side of the oil pan. Stupid oil filter ends, . . . right there in the same space as the port fitting(s).

And then there's detail #102, where the oil lines come off the cooler cover-plate, they turn up a little too much and occupy the same space as the primaries support bracket.

FMD!


I didn't really like how tight (read: short) the hoses were.


So,
- I "altered" the filter bracket so as to move the filter more down, and away from the drain port.
- Remade the hoses to a more accommodating length and included re-positioning the fittings there so they duck under the turbo support bracket.

That's it! (version 1.01)





So now I got to reconfigure the heat-shield mess for the HVAC box.
- Got the refrigerant line-set out of the way (I may still fix that mess as part of this adventure as the bottom primary will be in the way later on. ).
- Removed the factory noise-blanket (what's left of it.

[BC847]

So, there's the issue of the HVAC blower motor trying to occupy the same space as the top primary's downpipe.

I ended up simply moving the motor more into the blower housing (Ground the three spot-welds holding the motor's mounting flange and moved the flange right at 1/2". Tig-welded it in place. Moved the blower wheel a little the other way to compensate. Works just fine).

For reference, old original motor top:




This makes the HVAC heat-shield much less complicated.



. . . . . . Keep moving forward . . . . .

[BC847]

Thinking about how I can make a heat-shield for the HVAC blower motor . . . .. I don't care for the notion of a bent-up sheet of metal by itself, and include covering the motor without looking wonky . . . . .

So I went to rooting around in the kitchen.

A number of years ago, I bought a bunch of little stainless steel bowls. The thought was they'd work nicely for holding measured amounts of stuff for one's recipe (flour, sugar, butter, etc).

So, I got a large socket, and put it centered, under the bottom of the bowl. Then put a smaller socket inside, on the center of the floor of the bowl. Then I threw it in the press . . . . . ..





Installing it like I do in my head, there's about 1/4" or so clearance around the perimeter of the motor for air flow. It can reside in a hole in the main blower housing heat-shield, and perhaps look OK.

We'll see.

[BC847]

Got more done to the heat-shield . . . . the OEM rubber shield needs tweaking.

[BC847]

Crap.

In the above image, right there behind the oil dipstick handle. The rubber stuff up top has to go as that's right at the secondary hot-pipe.


In the meantime, the air-filter stuff (plumbing). The current Stock-Pot cold air intake has the basic, flat lid with the 4" inlet (actually the bottom of the standard BHAF ).

I want to have a better flowing transition out of the soup-pot. I'd like to mimic a bell-mouth velocity stack. Looking online for a source reveals everybody and their brother that makes them, goes no larger than 5" (+/- 1/8") . . . . except for one company . .. http://properfabrications.com/Velocity- ... t_p_5.html


I'm sorry, I'm not paying $100 for the thing.

So, . . . . . . . "Get out of the box" . . . . . .


I'm an HVAC guy, . . .. so . . . . .let's check my sources . . . . >Ding!<

https://www.airhand.com/product/bellmouth/

12" diameter plate that transitions to a 5" duct . . . . 35buhh.

[BC847]

OK. HVAC box heat-shield crap done.

[PToombs]

That looks nice and clean.

[BC847]

Thanks.


Collected all the hot-stuff that's gonna get coated, and ran them through the dishwasher with a little stronger dose of regular dishwasher fluid. Rinsed a couple' three more times for good sport. Then baked them in the oven @ 500*f for 15 minutes. Then placed them in some oversized plastic storage bags the wife found. At this point, the stuff is relatively oil free and clean. I'll blast them tomorrow with 120grit Aluminum Oxide.





In he meantime, I got the 5" bell-mouth thingy for the air filter plumbing. I'll nail this to the lid of the stock-pot so that there'll be a nice transition of the incoming air, through the filter, and turn into the turbo feed tube.





The funnel will feed into a hard-rubber 90* Ell which will run into a Tee. I'll fabricate stuff such that the two 90*s that feed the turbos, will be nested into the Tee. Suffice it to say, there's gonna be some trimming involved.





You'll see . . . . . . . .

[BC847]

The 120 grit AO blast media certainly cuts the metal clean. Highlighted ALL the flaws in my welding.





Nicely blended all the grind-marks . . . .





I'm hoping to spray the coatings this coming week.