Just a little more . . . . .

[dazedandconfused]

Looking really good

[BC847]

Sure hope it all works as planned. . . .

My Son got me a nice hat:

[BC847]

Taking care of a little detail . . . .

The new waste-gated secondary comes with what is apparently the typical OEM WG cover-plate. It's a simple stamped plate of steel with a dimple that allows a little more room for the WG valve-plate to get off the WG ports.

(This image is typical of what I got. Mine's a BW ).




As such, the waste-gate actuator only makes a 1/4" stroke. Total. That equates to the valves lifting off the ports roughly an 8th inch (+/-).

- My existing 62/65/14 WG S300. When I got it, I replaced it's thin waste-gate cover-plate with one that was of thick iron with a 1/4" deep well bored in it. Less prone to warp with heat and allows the WG valve-plate more room to open more.





OK, so I got a little WG cover-plate spacer recently . . . .





So . . . . combine the two . . . . .





As such, the waste-gate actuator now has going on 5/8" stroke. That appears to give me roughly 3/8" or so valve lift. BIG improvement in clearing the WG ports over OEM. At least in my eyes.

Still, I'm thinking of grinding a notch, if you will, in that cover-plate well, so as to give the WG valve assembly just that much more room.

[BC847]

Got the down-pipe cleaned up (please pardon the dents).

[dazedandconfused]

I'm anxious to see how it performs.

[BC847]

I'm anxious to see how it performs.

Me too.

Still, No need to rush things at this point.

On my truck, the stock/OEM exhaust system is such that:
- The turbo's exhaust housing outlet has a V-Band clamp for the down-pipe.
- That down-pipe is connected to one of the bolts for the transmission's bell-housing. It's of the resilent rubber design there by offering some reduction in noise transmission as well as accommodating a little flexing.
- From there, the down-pipe plays into the pipe going past the transmission/trasfer-case on its way to the muffler.

Blah, blah.

I figure a 5" diameter 16ga CS pipe isn't gonna "give" much over its length. While I do have poly engine mounts, they do flex a little with a hard load. You can clearly see my 4x4 shifter moving a good bit in the drag-racing videos. I don't want to crack my DP flanges at the primaries nor tweak the turbo assembly with torsional loads. Won't really have a lot of room around the trans stuff for movement, that's for sure.

I think I need to include some kind of flex joint, . . . thingy.

[DMan1198]

Now that you mention it one of those expansion joints would be perfect for my setup too, since my downpipe hits the frame as it is.

[dazedandconfused]

Where did you get the wastegate backing plate spacer?

[BC847]

Where did you get the wastegate backing plate spacer?

http://www.stainlessdiesel.com/index.ph ... uct_id=151

[BC847]

Got started on cleaning up the work area outside to do the swap. A year or so of scrap metal from two HVAC units, the truck's front-end steering and rear-end gears, etc. Sorted it all:
- 133lbs of HVAC coils.
- 44lb auto battery.
- 27lb truck radiator.
- 11lbs of copper/alum ends (from above coils).
- 47lbs of #1 copper.
- 17lbs of #2 copper.
- 11lbs of irony brass.
- 625lbs of unprepared steel.
$294.

$200 for her, the balance for me. Truck rode nice with a small load in the bed.

Gotta move the late mother-in-law's golf cart. Dead batteries and three flats. The cart's charger and my air-compressor are toast.

[PToombs]

My neighbor was going to take in some scrap, so I gave him my copper radiator and 2 intercoolers from the 2nd gen. $60, ka ching! I gave him 10 for taking it in for me.

[BC847]

LOL! The local ceramic vendor wants just shy of $500 to coat all the hot stuff, less the down-pipe assembly.


Um, . . . . . . NO!

I'll do it myself. Stuff on order.

[PToombs]

Dave, how does ceramic hold up on the hot parts? I was using that stuff from Eastwood that coats to a silver color, I can't remember the name of it right now. It was about $30 for 3 oz, you put it on with a small brush. The rust bled thru on my truck, and it's a PITA to keep putting the stuff on there. Not to mention it's messy, think never seize a little darker color.

[BC847]

Eh. The material itself holds up just fine to the temperatures encountered. In my case, it's the issue of the coating ultimately getting cracks in it that in turn, allows Oxygen to get to the base material (cast iron), thus, corrosion of the base material. I think it's an issue of different expansion rates between the coating and substrate.

The stuff coating my mess (four or so years old now?) has failed at this point with notable rust shining through. Perhaps 40% has perforated and showing rust from underneath.

My mess currently has the Cerakote brand of stuff on it: http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/

I'm using this stuff this time around: http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/finishe ... -titanium/

We'll see.

Currently trying to figure out how I can go about sufficiently roughening the surfaces for proper adhesion.

[stuffy]

Sandpaper?