Just a little more . . . . .

[RCCUMMINS89]

Interesting. If it weren't for the cost factor, I think we'd have more comparisons. The 2 style of turbos are in different markets. And again, I've heard arguments on both sides of the fence. However..... I've had explanations on why a journal bearing is better.... where I've not had one on a bb.

[DMan1198]

I know of one guy who got a 64/71 converted to bb, and apparently it spools faster for him. If I could swing it I would certainly try both versions of a 62/68/12sxe to see if there was any gain one way or the other. At the same time I wouldn't mind just upgrading the compressor side of a 472 to an sxe just to keep the 83 turbine with the 15lb/min gain in compressor flow over my 467. Apparently though forced inductions latest tech 472 outflows the sxe in the low end, and top end.

[BC847]

I appreciate y'all discussing the pros & cons of the BB vs journal. Right now, I change my mind like a little girl changes socks.

In the meantime, I've been putting this off way too long . . . . .

[DMan1198]

That's how I feel with my 4th gen. Going back and forth on what to run first when I can put the fuel to it. I really like where the current 76/83 lights, but I also really like the idea of a 478/87sxe which would more than likely spool where my 80/83 did which has me pondering a 6 blade forced inductions 76 or 78 which would be closer to what I want. The only thing I'm really sure of is I want a 106mm primary when I go to compounds (either an hx82 or gt55)

[BC847]

While waiting for another tool for the rear-end work, I've got to keep moving forward so . . . . .

I keep having issues with my TPS. It seems the thing won't stay properly adjusted. It works correctly for a while and then goes to crap.
- I thought maybe I've essentially worn the TPS adjustment thingy loose by constantly readjusting it (holds setting via an interference-fit between the set-screw and the TPS adapter thingy).
- So I figure the best thing is for me to once again, properly set it, and basically glue things in place.

OK, fine. Works just fine for a short while and back to being ill-adjusted. WTH? So, I get to ciphering on it and . . . . . DUH!

- The TPS adjustable adapter thingy has a key on it that fits in a slot of the TPS mounting bracket.
- The slot seems to limit the rotation of the TPS. OK, fine.

>DING!< We all remove the throttle's high-speed set-screw so we can allow full fueling. This allows the IP's throttle to rotate effectively as far as the fuel pedal can turn it.

-> The full fueling throttle rotation is now rotating further than the TPS's mounting bracket will allow the TPS adjustment widget to rotate.

Crap!


So, cut the slot in the TPS mounting bracket perhaps an additional 1/8th inch.




Make sense?

Pressing things to WOT now no longer screws-up the TPS setting.



I wonder how many people have removed the throttle's high-speed set-screw, just to eventually abandon the TPS because it no longer seems to work right? Especially those who swap the throttle-rod to the inner hole on the IP's bell-crank.

[DMan1198]

Man am I ever glad I have a manual after reading that post. That does make sense though.

[PToombs]

I am SO glad I don't have that TPS crap on my truck!

[BC847]

Hurt the existing HT3B Thursday night.

Gonna have to accelerate the new spinny-thing schedule.

[PToombs]

Wow! How'd you do that? And what happened to it?

[BC847]

Wow! How'd you do that? And what happened to it?

By beating the crap out of it for eight years.

I think the journal-bearings are worn. I cleaned the air filter Thursday night and took it out to play. While wound WAY up, I heard a strange . . . .. whine. As soon as I heard it, I got off the fuel and as the engine wound down, the whine got much louder as it wound down. A brief inspection reveals the compressor-wheel had just kissed the compressor housing. There's a lot of side-to-side play . . . going on 1/16" or so.

So I drove it to the coast.

[DMan1198]

That's the spirit. Were you going to build new piping with the new turbos?

[BC847]

Were you going to build new piping with the new turbos?

Yes.

In the meantime, helping my wonderful Son with direction, we got on with renewing the DANA70 rear-end.

The differential housing spreader came in handy . . .




The drivers side carrier bearing's outer race had a surprise for us . . . . WTH?! That bearing's rollers present with no apparent related damage. In addition to this mess, that same race appears to have spun a little in it's setting (While not pictured, the fancy bearing puller widget came in REAL handy)




Anyhoo, we torn down the Power-Lock differential . . . . .




And found all the spider-gears well worn with a few presenting with pitting in the teeth. Found 80% of all the clutch-disc material worn away . . . .




Such happens with 270K miles that includes a fair amount of beating. So, we start with a new spider-gear assembly, . . . .




As well as new clutch/steel packs . . . . . .




Completing that assembly with a new Ring-Gear and associated bolts had us set that to the side so as to move on to the new Pinion-gear assembly . . . . .



We ended the day with dialing in the pinion bearing preloading adjustment where we completely installed the pinion, and then turning it with between 20 ~40 in/lbs of torque. Thus far we've had to assemble and disassemble it seven times to get at 45in/lbs. We'll resume in the morning where we'll add approximately 0.003" more to the shim-stack to arrive at 20 ~ 40 in/lbs required turning torque.

The Devil's in the detail.

[PToombs]

New spiders! Wow, you are going all out!
How were the cups the side gears sit in? When I did mine, 1 was cracked and had to be replaced.
I love the spreader, I think I had my carrier out 10 or 11 times setting the side play/ backlash or what ever it's called. It would have been bad if I didn't have the spreader.
1 of my side races had turned a little bit too. When I did the final assembly, I put some Loctite on the races to give them a little added holding power.

[BC847]

All the components were fully intact. The spider-gear shafts were notably worn on the load-side (very uneven with the rest of the shaft's diameter. Times four). The spider-gears themselves had the teeth heavily worn at the crowns though it was uniform. The mating teeth in the cups were equally worn and a few presented with notable pitting. Overall, 80% of the friction material was gone from the clutch-discs. That that remained, was toasted and streaked with bare steel. Most of the steels were blue and heavily streaked/scratched.
The ring & pinion gear-set presented with a lot of backlash when torn down. The footprint in the ring-gear was uniform and full-width less the first 1/4" (inner diameter, I can't remember the term!). There, the footprint feathered out. The footprint ran completely to the toe.

Eh, it's lasted over 200,000 miles. I'm good with it. We replaced all of it. The complete spider-gear related everything, clutches and steels. New ring & pinion. All new bearing assemblies.



The pinion bearing preload was a PITA! Being I've got the torque-multiplier, we applied the final torque to the pinion nut before checking the turning-torque. Numerous shim-stacks later (+/- 0.001" increment shifts at the final few stacks), we arrived at 25in/lbs turning the fully installed pinion assembly (less oil seal). (FSM: 20 ~ 40 in/lbs for new bearings. 10 ~ 20in/lbs for used).

Being that I'm running the stock/OEM original carrier/differential, in the original stock/OEM differential/axle housing, I should be able to run the existing carrier shim-stacks.

So, I replaced each shim, with new ones, and slid new bearings on top of them.

I confess, I did not break-out the pedestal mounted micrometer and check stuff . . . . . . we installed and torqued the carrier assembly and with the help of a very large screwdriver, found no perceptible end-play. The carrier/differential assembly spun easily and freely. - Cool.

Removed the diff, and reinstalled the pinion assembly. Reinstalled the diff. Put some ink of the drive/coast sides of a ring-gear tooth.

While letting the head of my black rubber mallet drag on the ring-gear, we spun the pinion in the direction of drive, with a screw-gun. Ran it perhaps 25 ring-gear revolutions and checked the foot-print in the ring-gear.
- The back-lash is such that the tops of the pinion-gear teeth, don't get too deep in the roots of the ring-gear teeth.
- With the above said, there is perhaps 0.010/20" at the tops of the ring-gear's ink that's undisturbed.

All that is as per the FSM.

The pinion depth aspect of the footprint suggest I could have added maybe 1, 2, . . 3 thousandths to the pinion depth's shim-stack, but. The vast majority of the footprint has the length, centered, with perhaps a tick toward the toe of the ring-gears teeth.

We added more ink and let the screw-gun spin the mess enough that the ink transferred to all the ring-gear teeth. Though a shadow of ink, it was definitely there and consistent.

Good enough for me.

Put it all back together and drove it around a rural block. Checked things and found the overall diff just slightly warm. - Cool.

Ease around with it for 500 miles and change the lube oil and I should be done with it.

We'll see.

[BC847]