Build list

[Remps]

Build list for swapping 1990 cummins into my 1996: So far, I think I need...
Upper and lower engine reseal kits
Fluidampr
ARP head studs
Lots of brake cleen
Engine paint
3200 spring
6-60 lb spring
Clutch release bearing
HVLP
100 lb boost gauge, black
550-650 hp DD clutch
62fmw/68/.83 t4

The last two items...going to be really iffy if I can afford them this go round or not, and they aren't really needed. The stock clutch still works great, although it will slip if you floor it at 16-1700 rpm in 6th. I have no idea what size the input shaft is on this NV5600, so the clutch has to wait. The cylinder head off the 1996 motor will be going on the 1990 motor, (it has 60lb spring on exhaust) the head is like new, no cracks, and was perfectly flat last time it was checked. The vacuum pump assembly from the 2nd gen motor will HOPEFULLY bolt right on to the 1990 motor.. Also going to have the 1990 motor (and the 96 head, again)checked for flatness at a machine shop. Am I missing anything that could be needed to complete the swap? Any input appreciated, thanks.

[RCCUMMINS89]

Great mod list.... Custom 370s if you are not running the stockers. Even so, I would still add them.. they run cleaner than the stockers.

[Remps]

I will probably run the 4 hole 190's I have for now with the hx35, and the clutch, turbo, and mildly massaged 5x16's later on. I want to go with a 145 spray angle, as it will be jumped a tooth and will have a timing spacer eventually. Another question.. Do I need to use a clutch alignment tool to get the clutch bolted up straight on the new motor? AND one more question,.. Do I use the pushrods from the 90 with the 96 head, or use the pushrods from the 96 motor? My gut says run the 90 pushrods, but I'm not 100% sure.

[PToombs]

You should always use a clutch alignment tool for ease of trans installation if you have one. If you don't, then you get to wrestle with it!
Pushrods should be the same for both. They didn't change that much on theses engines until '98.5.

[DMan1198]

Yeah Hamilton cams lists the pushrods as 89-98 and 98+.

[Remps]

Ok I will find a alignment tool, and make things easier on myself. I know the pushrods are the same size, I meant how they are broken in with their respective lifters and rockers. Do I want the 96 pushrods making new friends with the 90's lifters, or have the 90 pushrods making new friends with the 96 rockers? Does it even matter?

[PToombs]

I never worry about that crap. If I put in a new cam I would use new lifters, that sorta thing, but when I had my head off the push rods all went into a pile and went back where ever I put them.

[RCCUMMINS89]

It is pretty much a guarantee on a 1st gen engine that the lifter will be needing replaced. As far as pushrods..... doesn't matter, just run them wherever they fall.

[Remps]

Well it turns out the 1.25" input nv5600 have the starter mounted direct to the block, and the 1.35? input trans have a 3/4" spacer between starter and block. Supposedly are also marked with black marker on top of the trans which one they are. So I'll be crawling underneath and pulling the shifter boot to inspect when I get a chance. So it looks like a clutch should be in the works after all. Which is awesome, didn't want to pull the drivetrain apart twice.

[PToombs]

Wouldn't it be easier to just look for the spacer block?

[Remps]

If I wasnt a 2wd with running boards, yes. I gotta find a clean parking spot with a curb I can bump my front tires onto, so that I fit. And it is only a few screws for the boot, and I am curious if mine has marker on it. No work tomorrow, so I'll check it out.

[Remps]

Well I am 99% sure there is no spacer on the starter, so not sure enough to order a clutch. Casting number searches have turned up nothing, and I highly doubt there is any marker markings left on top of the trans from the looks of it.

[Remps]

Finally going to start ordering parts middle of April. Seal kits, cleaners, paint, gov spring for sure, not sure if I can swing the rest of it right now. Not a big deal, as the rest can be added with engine in the truck. Looking forward to hitting on all 6!

[fatty]

There is a guy on Compd selling full genuine Cummins upper and lower reseal kits for $250. I think his name is ibuildembig.

[Remps]

Good to know! However, add 20% for low Cad dollar, plus shipping... Idk, I will compare prices before I order for sure.