AutoMeter pyrometer

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AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby needlenose » Sat Feb 25, 2017 7:04 pm

I just got an AutoMeter pyro and I noticed that they intend you to just slide the probe into a 1/8" threaded insert and hold it with a set screw. Has anyone done this before and did it leak? It seems that there will be too much tolerance in the fitting and exhaust is going to escape around it. Maybe it doesn't matter?
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby BigPapa » Sat Feb 25, 2017 10:10 pm

I've never seen an AutoMeter thermocouple with a set screw. All I've ever seen use a compression type fitting. Do you have a part number or a pic of this set screw setup?
Scott

1998.5 QCSB RWD - has '95 12V from my totaled '95, Goerend 47RE, HE351CW, DDIII injectors, 181 DV's, #10 plate, tranny temp, boost, & pyro gauges
1992 D250 ECLB Auto - dyno'd 308/630, PDR pump & POD injectors, 16cm2 E/H, BDP built A518 w/dual coolers, D70 w/LS, EGR disc brakes, dual tranny temp A-pillar, boost, pyro, and tach dash pod
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby needlenose » Sun Feb 26, 2017 8:16 am

BigPapa wrote:I've never seen an AutoMeter thermocouple with a set screw. All I've ever seen use a compression type fitting. Do you have a part number or a pic of this set screw setup?


Thanks for the response. It's an AutoMeter 8444.


It looks like this:

Image
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby BigPapa » Sun Feb 26, 2017 2:37 pm

That looks like a pyro for a Ford gasser. The thermocouple mounts in the exhaust pipe of a header collector. A small leak like that one is going to have is no big deal in that application.

All the thermocouples I've seen that are designed for a diesel exhaust manifold look like this:

Image
Scott

1998.5 QCSB RWD - has '95 12V from my totaled '95, Goerend 47RE, HE351CW, DDIII injectors, 181 DV's, #10 plate, tranny temp, boost, & pyro gauges
1992 D250 ECLB Auto - dyno'd 308/630, PDR pump & POD injectors, 16cm2 E/H, BDP built A518 w/dual coolers, D70 w/LS, EGR disc brakes, dual tranny temp A-pillar, boost, pyro, and tach dash pod
1993 D150 RCSB - Building a DD/Racer Toy
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby DMan1198 » Sun Feb 26, 2017 6:42 pm

I ran my setup with that set screw style for a few months, and there was a negligible quantity of soot passed through it, so it's no trouble to run it that way. I switched to a stainless compression when I put my compounds together though since I prefer the way compression fittings work.
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby BigPapa » Sun Feb 26, 2017 7:17 pm

You could probably just find you a compression fitting that will work. Just make sure the ferrule fits the probe and you'll need to drill it all the way through. The one in the image above is stainless but if I'm not mistaken I ran a brass one once. Brass melts between 1,650 to 1,720 °F. I'd think that if it did melt, the worst it would do is blow out. I do know I ran a 1/4" brass pipe plug that never gave me a problem.
Scott

1998.5 QCSB RWD - has '95 12V from my totaled '95, Goerend 47RE, HE351CW, DDIII injectors, 181 DV's, #10 plate, tranny temp, boost, & pyro gauges
1992 D250 ECLB Auto - dyno'd 308/630, PDR pump & POD injectors, 16cm2 E/H, BDP built A518 w/dual coolers, D70 w/LS, EGR disc brakes, dual tranny temp A-pillar, boost, pyro, and tach dash pod
1993 D150 RCSB - Building a DD/Racer Toy
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby needlenose » Sun Feb 26, 2017 7:31 pm

Thanks for all the responses!

I think I will just get a compression type. It's what I thought I was getting to begin with, but they didn't show pics of it on Summit. Do you think something like below will work? The one I already have is also a 2-wire type. Surely I can just splice it in?


https://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Thermocou ... B009HW44F4

BTW, that seems awfully cheap.....
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby DMan1198 » Sun Feb 26, 2017 8:03 pm

Just get a stainless compression fitting for the thermocouple you already have. It's cheaper, and easier than trying to hack up a thermocouple that iirc autometer explicitly tells you not to splice.

I believe it's a 1/4" compression fitting that you'll want.
Ducati- professional nap taker, and thread derailer extraordinaire
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby Begle1 » Mon Mar 20, 2017 4:42 pm

It isn't too big a pain to drill your own fitting, but there are "bored through" compression fittings designed for similar purposes. Swagelok #SS-200-1-2BT

https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Pro ... -200-1-2BT

You can also get creative and thread a drilled-out T into the manifold. Stick the thermocouple through the T long-ways, then you can get a pressure reading out of the third port off to the side. Swagelok #SS-200-3TMT

https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Pro ... S-200-3TMT


(Swagelok fittings are stupid-expensive but their part numbers can usually be cross-referenced or found on eBay searches.)
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby needlenose » Sat Mar 25, 2017 2:01 pm

I ended up doing the compression fitting. I had already ordered the fitting ($15 + $10 shipping!!!!) before I read about the Swaglock fittings. No worry, I just chucked it in the mill and drilled it out. It's all installed and working nicely. *Much* better than trying to swap out thermos.

I'm sure this is kind of like asking a group of gear heads how much power is enough, but what kind of cruising temps should I be looking for out of a '92 with no fuel mods, 16cm housing on a stock H1C, and 4" exhaust from the turbo back?

I'm cruising at 65mph @ 600deg. If I mat it unloaded and hold it, it will climb to about 900 at full boost(whopping 13lbs). I'm just trying to find out where I am before I change anything.

Thanks again for all the input.
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby BigPapa » Sat Mar 25, 2017 2:17 pm

600* at a steady level cruise is ideal. 900* at full boost sounds a bit low to me, even for a stock engine, but I am new to these VE engines. My '95 gets to @ 1100*-1200* on a hard pull but I do have quite a bit more fuel than stock.
Scott

1998.5 QCSB RWD - has '95 12V from my totaled '95, Goerend 47RE, HE351CW, DDIII injectors, 181 DV's, #10 plate, tranny temp, boost, & pyro gauges
1992 D250 ECLB Auto - dyno'd 308/630, PDR pump & POD injectors, 16cm2 E/H, BDP built A518 w/dual coolers, D70 w/LS, EGR disc brakes, dual tranny temp A-pillar, boost, pyro, and tach dash pod
1993 D150 RCSB - Building a DD/Racer Toy
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby spencerdiesel » Sat Mar 25, 2017 5:21 pm

I didn't see if you are pre or post turbo, mine rock stock would peak 1120 pre turbo

I've got 4.10s and 33s, I cruise 625-700 at 65
1992 W250, 5 speed, 4.10, Ext. cab Ext. bed, 12.5k winch, 75 gal. fuel tank

Fuel: THD 12 psi piston pump, THD fuel pin, 366 spring, fuel screw bottomed @ 3 turns, timing bumped 3/16"
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby needlenose » Sat Mar 25, 2017 6:25 pm

spencerdiesel wrote:I didn't see if you are pre or post turbo, mine rock stock would peak 1120 pre turbo

I've got 4.10s and 33s, I cruise 625-700 at 65


I'm pre-turbo. About 1" before on the back 3 cylinder. I heard they tend to be a little hotter than the front 3.


What's the max temp? I thought stuff started melting at 1200.
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby spencerdiesel » Sat Mar 25, 2017 7:27 pm

1250 sustained is max. Anything above that is grey area, aka "a matter of time".

Once past 1250, the higher you go the less time you want to keep it there. I'd sleep at night doing 1300 for 30 seconds. I would not sleep at night doing 1800 for 30 seconds :D
1992 W250, 5 speed, 4.10, Ext. cab Ext. bed, 12.5k winch, 75 gal. fuel tank

Fuel: THD 12 psi piston pump, THD fuel pin, 366 spring, fuel screw bottomed @ 3 turns, timing bumped 3/16"
Muffler delete
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Re: AutoMeter pyrometer

Postby BigPapa » Sat Mar 25, 2017 8:50 pm

I think aluminum starts to melt at 1300. Short spikes above that are OK, but I wouldn't push it.
Scott

1998.5 QCSB RWD - has '95 12V from my totaled '95, Goerend 47RE, HE351CW, DDIII injectors, 181 DV's, #10 plate, tranny temp, boost, & pyro gauges
1992 D250 ECLB Auto - dyno'd 308/630, PDR pump & POD injectors, 16cm2 E/H, BDP built A518 w/dual coolers, D70 w/LS, EGR disc brakes, dual tranny temp A-pillar, boost, pyro, and tach dash pod
1993 D150 RCSB - Building a DD/Racer Toy
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