HE351CW Rebuild.

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HE351CW Rebuild.

Postby matthewh » Mon Apr 03, 2017 3:32 pm

Picked up this HE cheap today, spins freely, no shaft play what so ever. Only issue is the amount of corrosion it has, on everything. Impellers look in good shape, but the housings are rough. Don't mind throwing a rebuild kit at it if necessary, but could one tear it down, media blast the housings and center section, paint and reassemble? Will bore out the wastegate either way. Looking for a new solenoid as well, as this one is rough, and the wires were cut close to the housing, be hard to splice a new wire onto it
Or should I just clean it up and run it? Supposedly has less than 100k miles, so if that's true, it must have been a plow truck, or ran alot of highway around here. Idk how long its sat either.

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'93 W350 5spd Getrag, 4.10 gears, 83k miles and counting, Mods: LPPP AKA Ma Dually
'54 Dodge M37 6.2/700R4/205, 5.89 gears, WC rear axle
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Re: HE351CW Rebuild.

Postby BigPapa » Mon Apr 03, 2017 5:22 pm

That is some serious corrosion. Just reading through your post I was thinking "just clean it up and run it" but when I got down to the pics I don't know if I would or not.

The one I have on my '98 I bought from a fellow that thought it was bad and he sold it to me in pieces for $100. I put it back together, checked it out, and put it on. I have put over 100K on it since then with no issues.

As to the solenoid, I don't know if you'll be able to use it without some sort of "controller". I put a spring gate on mine, after boring it out, of course.

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I ended up ditching the rod/spring and hooked a Yosh exhaust spring:
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on the welded-on bracket and the shaft lever. It opens at almost 35psi boost. Don't know what drive pressure since I've never had a DP gauge.
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1998.5 QCSB RWD - has '95 12V from my totaled '95, Goerend 47RE, HE351CW, DDIII injectors, 181 DV's, #10 plate, tranny temp, boost, & pyro gauges
1992 D250 ECLB Auto - dyno'd 308/630, PDR pump & POD injectors, 16cm2 E/H, BDP built A518 w/dual coolers, D70 w/LS, EGR disc brakes, dual tranny temp A-pillar, boost, pyro, and tach dash pod
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Re: HE351CW Rebuild.

Postby matthewh » Mon Apr 03, 2017 5:28 pm

My understanding is the solenoid is a simple on/off affair. Hook 12v to it, it's on and opens the wastegate at 40psi, 12v off/no power, opens at 20psi. Would be a nice valet switch as well.
Believe the controller is needed for the variable HE351
'93 W350 5spd Getrag, 4.10 gears, 83k miles and counting, Mods: LPPP AKA Ma Dually
'54 Dodge M37 6.2/700R4/205, 5.89 gears, WC rear axle
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Re: HE351CW Rebuild.

Postby BigPapa » Mon Apr 03, 2017 7:53 pm

Never heard that before but I really haven't looked for it. I know the VE's need a controller for the actuator. I thought the CW's solenoid was ECM controlled also. Learn something everyday.

Mine still has the solenoid in it but I'm pretty sure I pitched the actuator. It wouldn't have worked anyway the way I had to clock the housings.

I've got a VE in the shed just waiting for some play time. I've lazily been researching a means of controlling it.
Scott

1998.5 QCSB RWD - has '95 12V from my totaled '95, Goerend 47RE, HE351CW, DDIII injectors, 181 DV's, #10 plate, tranny temp, boost, & pyro gauges
1992 D250 ECLB Auto - dyno'd 308/630, PDR pump & POD injectors, 16cm2 E/H, BDP built A518 w/dual coolers, D70 w/LS, EGR disc brakes, dual tranny temp A-pillar, boost, pyro, and tach dash pod
1993 D150 RCSB - Building a DD/Racer Toy
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Re: HE351CW Rebuild.

Postby DodgeFreak » Mon Apr 03, 2017 8:11 pm

From what I've read Matthew is correct although I got rid of mine before I ran it so I have no first hand experience. I would pull it apart and hand clean it the best I could.
92 D350 Cab and Chassis. Auto stock, wiring gremlins. 330k miles
92 W250 Ext cab rotted completely out. Auto, pump maxed, 215 ppump nozzles, Denny T2 pin.
85 D350 single wheel, converted to cummins, getrag, turned up 2 turns and afc screw flush.
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Re: HE351CW Rebuild.

Postby DMan1198 » Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:58 pm

I don't know if I'd blast the cartridge, and if your going to blast the comp cover it'd be best to turn the pressure down at least for the inside, and I wouldn't do the wheels. I blasted my turbine housings before smoothing, and painting them, and they've got several thousand miles on them now without any issues.
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Re: HE351CW Rebuild.

Postby matthewh » Wed Apr 05, 2017 11:10 pm

I was thinking blast the outsides, maybe polish the Inside if there's any issues or corrosion, more like a flap wheel, or something really not abrasive for the inside surfaces. Cartridge was thinking rust reform paint, and then some flat black.
Really my concern was the corrosion on the inlet and alum housing,
'93 W350 5spd Getrag, 4.10 gears, 83k miles and counting, Mods: LPPP AKA Ma Dually
'54 Dodge M37 6.2/700R4/205, 5.89 gears, WC rear axle
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Re: HE351CW Rebuild.

Postby DodgeFreak » Thu Apr 06, 2017 1:14 pm

I wouldn't flap wheel the inside of the housing where the wheel is, I would use green or grey scotch bright and clean it up the best I could with removing as much of the corrosion as I could. Flap wheel could remove to much material.
92 D350 Cab and Chassis. Auto stock, wiring gremlins. 330k miles
92 W250 Ext cab rotted completely out. Auto, pump maxed, 215 ppump nozzles, Denny T2 pin.
85 D350 single wheel, converted to cummins, getrag, turned up 2 turns and afc screw flush.
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