Optional way to build a 1/2" pickup tube/fuel system

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Optional way to build a 1/2" pickup tube/fuel system

Postby bgilbert » Tue Jun 17, 2008 8:08 pm

After already dropping the fuel tank in the 91.5 once, putting the flexible hose pickup tube inside the fuel sender. Only to have it suck air at half tank :evil: . It was late last fall when this happened, so I just hooked the stock fuel supply line back up and said I'd deal with it later. Now was the time, only this time I didn't feel like dropping the tank.

How can I make this job easier this time around? The plan was to remove the flexible pickup tube from the sender, replace the removeable plug on top the sender with one I had from a gas parts truck. Then put the bulkhead fitting in the bottom of the tank. I've had good luck with it there on my 89.

Here's an option to dropping your fuel tank to build a bigger fuel system. I decided to cut an access hole in the bed floor big enough to remove the fuel sender. Then with the sender/float assembly removed, siphon the fuel out. Then get under the truck, drill a hole in the tank. The 1/2" (-8an/jic) bulkhead fitting calls for a 3/4" hole. The tank is plastic and drills easily with wood boring spade bits. What's nice is after you drill the hole with a 3/4" spade bit you physically have to thread the fitting in. On all the systems I've done, none have been loose, they've all been very tight. Wish I could say the same about , ah nevermind. Rinse out any shavings that may have entered with ether or diesel fuel.

Have a helper hold the fitting under the truck with a wrench while you tighten the nut inside the tank through the new access hole in the bed.

Luckily I had plenty of extra fuel hose under the truck from the last time I did the system. Stretched it from the top to the bottom of the tank. Hooked up and now have gravity fed fuel at the piston lift pump.

For a 'clean' install, I have a truck bed in the yard from a 91 parts truck. I cut out a section of the floor slightly bigger than the hole I cut in the floor of my 91.5. Siliconed it and used self tapping screws to secure the new access 'door'. Paint to match or if you're lucky like me, they're already the same color.

Course for those of you with show trucks, this might not be the way you wish to do the job.
Bill Gilbert
85 D350 crew with 90 6BT intercooled Getrag 3.07's
93 D350 single cab Getrag 3.54's.
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Postby cummins king » Tue Jun 17, 2008 8:20 pm

i had the same issue, sucking at half, but dropping the tank is a 10 minut job, would probaly take just as long to cut a hole in the box, but i fix the issue with a big tank in the bed,
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Postby GO OVRIT » Tue Jun 17, 2008 8:47 pm

I'm pretty impressed that you can drop the tank in 10 mins. :o The underside of my truck doesn't have any rust, so I can pop the bed bolts out with an impact in a few mins and slide the bed back. Otherwise I'd probably be cutting a hole too.
92 W250 ext cab 518, big sticks, a-1000, PDR HX40, 4" exhaust w/aeroturbine, pump tweaked, K&N filter Tims Cooler tubes and 3" i/c, gauges
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Postby cummins king » Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:16 am

helps to have a lift and another stong body, last time we pulled the tank off 3/4s full,
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But why is it sucking air?

Postby Ace » Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:31 am

So did you ever figure out why the pickup mod didn't work? It's just a bigger tube extending down from the top of the sending unit assembly.

I used this stuff: (McMasterCarr# 5552K32) which is a little more flexible than regular rubber fuel line and should not harden over time and get stuck out of position somewhere in the basket.

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/tubing/TyPVC_Fuel_TranslYellow_5552k42.jpg

Also, I secured the clamp used to connect it to the fitting on top of the sender with red loctite. No probs, even running the tank low long after the low fuel light comes on.
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Postby cummins king » Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:18 am

its when your trying to conect the 1/2inch hose to the plastic pickup, you have to gind it down to its a clean circle and it doesnt want to seal,
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Postby bgilbert » Wed Jun 18, 2008 12:49 pm

For some reason on this 2wd truck the tank straps are riveted to the frame instead of bolted as in my other 4wd and 2wd crew cab truck. Then on the inside there's a long stud. Short truck, big driveshaft and big exhaust make it a pain to get at them and wrestle it around. Previously when I did the job before I had my garage open and the truck up on blocks. Right now the twin truck is using the garage space. Is that enough excuses :lol: ? I'm not saying it's easier or the best way, just an option my good friends.

I will say if you want to put your new pickup in the unused bung/slot and keep the stock pickup in place, forget about it. The only way to make this work and run less than a half a tank is to do what sounds like you two above have done and the way BC or whoever it was on DTR did by incorporating the bigger pickup into the stock POS plastic pickup and eliminate the stock pickup altogether. With the way the float at the bottom of the plastic sender works and allows fuel to enter when the level in the tank drops down to half or below, there's no way to have a separate pickup as the way I tried originally.

What I did before to make ya's understand clearer: Removed the large unused plastic bung ontop the sender. Drilled a 3/4" hole in it and placed the bulkhead fitting through it. Then stuck the plug back into the top of the sender with the fitting and pickup tube attached to the fitting.

The way I look at it, bulkhead separate from the sender either on top or bottom of the tank.
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Postby PToombs » Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:04 pm

The plastic sleeve in the tank has a smallish hole to let fuel in. That's why with a 1/2 inch pickup it ran out. If you drilled some holes in the sleeve it may be ok.

Bill, are you sure the straps are riveted? On my truck there is a "T" cut on the frame end of the strap, and a long bolt on the driveline side. You just twist the strap a 1/4 turn and it falls out.
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Postby Ace » Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:28 pm

I used the spare bung, removed the stock pickup and plugged it.
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Postby cummins king » Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:08 pm

you could probaly remove the plastic thing but then the hose would want to curl up

mine is a t also, but ive been driving with a chain holding my tank up for 6 mounths now :D
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Postby GO OVRIT » Thu Jun 19, 2008 2:15 pm

cummins king wrote:mine is a t also, but ive been driving with a chain holding my tank up for 6 mounths now :D


Sooo thats how you're dropping the tank in 10 mins. :D
92 W250 ext cab 518, big sticks, a-1000, PDR HX40, 4" exhaust w/aeroturbine, pump tweaked, K&N filter Tims Cooler tubes and 3" i/c, gauges
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Postby PToombs » Thu Jun 19, 2008 5:37 pm

CK, I had 1 rot off. I just took a piece of strap steel the same or a little wider, matched it up, and cut out the T. Drilled a hole in the other end, done! :D
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Postby cummins king » Thu Jun 19, 2008 7:42 pm

GO OVRIT wrote:
cummins king wrote:mine is a t also, but ive been driving with a chain holding my tank up for 6 mounths now :D


Sooo thats how you're dropping the tank in 10 mins. :D



Yup, and the truck safty like that twice,
PT i was to lazy to make somthin nice up and plus i want to drive
and the chain worked great

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Postby PToombs » Fri Jun 20, 2008 6:08 pm

CK, I hear ya! I wanna drive mine too. But I had to do some thing about the hole in the floor and no cab mount. :?
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