the big picture... what i want in the end.

[Micaiahfied]

i am looking to make a high HP 1st gen and possibly pull with it from time to time. here's what i've done so far.
91w350 5-speed

NV4500 tranny (advanced adapter bellhousing)
SBC Con OFE clutch (i know it's not for pulling but what i could afford for now)
HTT Stage III compressor housing
Pump tweaks

waiting or on the way.
12cm wg housing
Custom 2 stage water meth system
POD's

Here's where i would like some advice from the gurus. I know that the POD's will only take me so far but they were only $200 so i figure i can get that back out of them.

1. What is the best combo for twins? top and bottom?
2. 7mm 1stgen head better? or 2nd gen head?
3. fuel system? recently seems i've read a piston lp alone isn't enough

i'm sure there are more things but remember i am trying to do this on somewhat of a budget and over time as money allows. i was considering trying to build the twins first (bht3b or something on the bottom) and keeping it gated low until i do the head work or at least have it ready to go in what are your reccomendations?

[g1625s]

If you plan to pull at all, I would say budget for a conFE at least--remember what Dave went through with his OFe..Your present turbo with a BHT3B seems to be the budget combo of choice, but with any set of twins, I've read it's hard to keep them gated low enough to be safe for stock head clamping...sooo, a .020 HG and 12mm studs should be a bare minimum if you want it to stay together for long. After that, the hugest injectors you can afford and some sort of supplementary fuel deliver system...and some traction bars...and some lockers...

[KTA]

Around here if you have twins you get to pull in the class with Scheid and Haisleys, twins also cost alot to keep the head gasket on, not that you cant blow it with a single by itself either. Your problem if you want to sled pull besides your clutch will be the lack of RPM. A VE wont run alot of HP over 3000rpm, so now you are stuck having to run alot of gear and rely on the torque to get you down the track. That is hard on parts. I would recommend a S300 based turbo with the big turbine wheel in something like a 64mm Inducer. That will run well into the 50psi range if you have the fuel to push it that high. At least that way you could pull in the 2.5" street class. I hope you are just aiming on doing this for the fun because you wont be very competitive I am afraid.

[Micaiahfied]

ok, should have been more clear. when i say pull from time to time i mean local truck pull for show. last time there were like 3 trucks in that open class. i would like to make 500hp with w/m and with the use of a valet switch would like to be able to use at least a chunk of that without too much worry about EGT's. i don't want something that only spools about 2500rpm or something crazy like that. these are my current goals and i know i will need at least...

Head (ported/ringed/heavy springs)
Studs
correct turbos
exhaust
intercooler (a+a or w+a)
aux fuel system
fuel pin?

what am i missing and what is the right order for those things?

[KTA]

Head (ported/ringed/heavy springs)
Studs
correct turbos
exhaust
intercooler (a+a or w+a)
aux fuel system
fuel pin?

Well you can grind your fuel pin to max for free, so I would do that first. Then I would go with head job and studs at the same time, then the turbos and exhaust at the same time. I would then do the fuel system and do the intercooler last. If you are going to run water meth you wont see a lot off gains there changing the cooler.
With my twins and my truck is always set on the 627rwhp mode, I never see egt's over 1300deg max. Twins really cool things down and let you run big power and use it. You can make just as much power as twins with a single, but it runs alot more egt. The current generation S300 singles can support 500+ rwhp( not cool it but make it) and they spool in the 1400-1700rpm range depending on version and your setup. The reason I recommend going that route is since you say you are on a budget you can do the install alot easier, and you MIGHT be able to get by doing it on a stock head gasket and head bolts. I ran 488rwhp and 1200ftlbs of torque #2 only with a big wheeled S300 wastegated to 50psi with a thick stock head gasket and stock head bolts. I blew it the first week after I put the twins on.

[2stroke]

KTA... are u running N/I on that setup with twins?

[sdstriper]

I keep reading all these concerns about Intercoolers. Can someone please tell me just how important/unimportant it is to have? I am told the only reason Dodge went I/C is to meet emissions.

[KTA]

I have a water jacket aftercooler on my setup. An intercooler is important for controlling EGT's and for making power. You cant make much power with hot air.

[Fnschlaud4620]

KTA,

Do you have a seperate system for the engine coolant and the Intercooler coolant? If no, what is the engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature? If yes, How many times a minute do you "change the water"? A typical drag car will recirculate the ice water mixture 3-4 times from the water intercooler to the heat exchanger on a 6-7 second pass. I was wondering if it is necessary to change it ths fast for the cummins? We know what Engine coolant temp is comming out of the engine, but What is its temp after being cooled by the radiator and returning to the engine. Is there a way to plump the water intercooler so it only gets the engine coolant after it has been cooled by the radiator?

How does the factory water/intercooler for the cummins compare to aftermarket as far as efficienty and pressure drop? Do you have any Specs?

Thanks
Fnschlaud4620

[KTA]

Yes, My reservoir is 15gallon, and the pump is 6GPM. I think someone told you wrong on your flows. Even if you had a small 5gallon tank which wouldnt make very much of a heat sink, in order to run it through the cooler 4 times in 6 seconds it would have to flow about 3Gallons/second!! You would need probably a 2" line and 60psi to accomplish that!!! My intake temps run about 150deg max. They are about 660 without the cooler. Its not very big so I am shure it is not real effecient, and I have no idea of the pressure loss with my current setup, I know when I was running my single at 480rwhp it was about 3psi @50psi. I got it for free and it was a super easy install so that is why I went with it.

[Fnschlaud4620]

I am thinking strongly about going with the water/air intercooler, I was just not sure on how to set it up for street usage. I Used to be a member of Hardcore Racing, Flint, MI. We ran Pro Mod class with a 1800hp LS1 based engine. The LS1 was hard to keep together most of the time and best accomplished when I was with the team was 6.85 @210mph, anyway, We had a 1.5 gallon ice tank and probably 3 gallon total capacity system. A remote CSR pump that had 70 gpm @ 16v was used. It really would drain the batteries between that, the Weldon fuel pump, the Ignition, and the computer. That is what I do not want to do on my truck. So I was just curious about how you set them up. I have found some pumps for about 100.00 that flow 40 gph on Ebay.

How Do you think a Pressure washer pump with a 12v motor would work for water injection? Some times I come up with some pretty crazy ideas.

Thanks
Fnschlaud4620

[wannadiesel]

How Do you think a Pressure washer pump with a 12v motor would work for water injection? Some times I come up with some pretty crazy ideas.

Thanks
Fnschlaud4620

I think it would be overkill.

[TOMTOM]

I am running a cooling mist kit. It was the base (cheapest) kit I could find with all components sans jug. The pump is a 150 psi. I use twin nozzles #10 and a #5. My boost switch comes in at 10 psi. This set up has decreased my 1/4 mile .42 sec and increase 4 mph. Iam running 50/50 water/meth. I have about $250 in the whole mess.
TOMMY