No Fuel Pin?

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No Fuel Pin?

Postby cedardiesel » Mon Dec 01, 2008 5:16 am

Can I run my truck without the Fuel Pin is it going to hurt the pump at all
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
cedardiesel
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby TWorline » Mon Dec 01, 2008 4:55 pm

If you are talking about the fuel cone, no you cannot, the pin that rides on the cone will come out to far an leak. If you are talking about the pin that rides on the cone, no you cannot, it will leak fuel into the diaphragm area and spill out the breather hole. If you are after more fuel anytime you want it remove the AFC lever, this will disable your AFC completely and your fuel will no longer be regulated by available boost.
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
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Postby cedardiesel » Mon Dec 01, 2008 5:10 pm

Alright Thanks so how do I disable the AFC lever
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
cedardiesel
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 141
Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:49 pm
Location: Lebanon
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Postby TWorline » Mon Dec 01, 2008 6:32 pm

Here is a link to another site with VE rebuild information: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=200901 Go to post #53 it shows you how to remove the BBs' from each side and remove the axle and the AFC lever. Once you have it removed you reinstall the axle and BBs' minus the AFC lever.
Last edited by TWorline on Tue Dec 02, 2008 7:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
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TWorline
14mm rotor
 
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Postby gear jammer 91" » Mon Dec 01, 2008 6:43 pm

If you remove your afc lever, I would replace the bb's with small set screw's. This way if you ever want to reinstall your afc lever you don't have to fight with those stupid bb's. :x That is what I did when I removed my afc lever. The bb's may come out easier for you but mine where a PITA.
Sold 91 now-intercooled W250, 388WHP 923WTQ on #2 only 423WHP 968WTQ on meth 0% correction.
01 LB7
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gear jammer 91"
14mm rotor
 
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Postby cedardiesel » Mon Dec 01, 2008 8:40 pm

If at all could ya'll post any pics on the lever and the BB ya'll are talking about
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
cedardiesel
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 141
Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:49 pm
Location: Lebanon
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Postby Begle1 » Mon Dec 01, 2008 9:08 pm

What's a set screw? Just a little bitty machine screw?

Do you tap the holes?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby 921stgen » Tue Dec 02, 2008 4:54 pm

Yes Begle1, I bought some 1/2 x 1/4-20 allen head set screws from Ace and tapped the hole 1/4-20 and put locktite on them and no problems.
91 W250 pods, , pull cable, Isspro FP gauge, Isspro boost, pyro, 366 spring, 91 W350, sold-92 W250, 40 hp Injectors, Bully Dog Fuel Pin, Isspro-tach, boots, pyro, AM electric fp gauge, 3200 GS, 5" AEM intake, 4" exhaust 5" stack
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fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby 921stgen » Tue Dec 02, 2008 5:10 pm

Cedardiesel, go to this http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... 901&page=2 that Tim Worline posted, the go to second page, then go to #53 post, you can see #53 on top right of a post above where there join date and location and the # of posts, it is by 1stgen545 on 7-8-08 at 5:03 PM it will show a pic of BB's and the lever removed. I used a brass punch just like he used in the pic and had them out in 5 minutes on my 91.5 and 30 on my 92.
91 W250 pods, , pull cable, Isspro FP gauge, Isspro boost, pyro, 366 spring, 91 W350, sold-92 W250, 40 hp Injectors, Bully Dog Fuel Pin, Isspro-tach, boots, pyro, AM electric fp gauge, 3200 GS, 5" AEM intake, 4" exhaust 5" stack
921stgen
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby Begle1 » Tue Dec 02, 2008 10:33 pm

I got the priviledge to pound the ball bearings out of another 20 year old VE pump today.

I broke TWO USA-made punches pounding the bearing out with a 3-pound sledge, so it took three punches and about 10 minutes of pounding to remove them.

I'm pressing them out next time. I don't know how, but they're getting pressed out.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby ccoxva » Wed Dec 03, 2008 8:26 pm

I ran mine for a year w/o a cone. I took the seal off the cone and put a bolt and nut that fit the hole were the stud goes through to seal it. Just a lil too smokey for a work truck..
1991 N/I 250
1996 Dodge 3500 Ex. Cab Dually 19.5's
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ccoxva
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby gear jammer 91" » Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:13 pm

Begle1 wrote:I got the priviledge to pound the ball bearings out of another 20 year old VE pump today.

I broke TWO USA-made punches pounding the bearing out with a 3-pound sledge, so it took three punches and about 10 minutes of pounding to remove them.

I'm pressing them out next time. I don't know how, but they're getting pressed out.


That is exactly why I put little set screws or whatever they are called in there. ;) Somebody else gave me the idea, can't remember who, but it's real easy to tap the holes in the pump top. :)
Sold 91 now-intercooled W250, 388WHP 923WTQ on #2 only 423WHP 968WTQ on meth 0% correction.
01 LB7
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gear jammer 91"
14mm rotor
 
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