Help Me Go Fast!

[PToombs]

My turn! I'd like to have up around or over 300 hp. The truck is a summer (mostly) daily driver, hot rod, and occasionly I tow up to 15k. I have- 3200spring, BHAF, 4" exhaust turbo back, Piston LP, drilled banjo bolts, original fuel pin, turned deep, Fuel screw is in some and can go in almost 2 turns, star wheel is bottomed and there is a valet on it, 16cm exhaust housing. I have a borrowed HX-35 on it, but I only drove it about 3 miles to test.
My very next thing is valve springs.
Questions; All the springs, or just exhaust?
Is the HX-35 the hot ticket, or PDR HX-35? Or call HTT and get just a compressor wheel and housing (what size?) for my H1C (15K miles)
What injectors? or tips? I am going to talk to my pump shop guy and see what it will cost to build something. I want more than PODs and a little cleaner.
Any advice the high horsepower gurus can give will be appreciated!

[DALEDOZER]

Pete, I think 2 or 3 stages of nitros will do it , then you won't have to mess with all that other stuff.

[Cschafer]

I personally think the hx-35 is a waste. I don't see any difference between them and the intercooled h1c anyways. Now the piers 35 has a 58mm wheel so it will do a little better. All you need to do to get to and above 300hp is grind your fuel pin and add pod's.The grinding on the fuel pin really does add alot, If you were at SOP 2 you would know I was happy with it. To keep it cool a good setup would be the 60mm wheel upgrade and some injectors like Dale has. That is if he is still happy with them, I havent asked him in a while. I hope there good considering I just ordered mine from the same company. My stock non-IC injectors and baby h1c took mine to 301 HP with out touching the gov. spring or timing so you must be pretty close. Oh yeah, and add a really big filter

[Philip]

Pete a 23 T bucket with a 572 big block should cure your need for power and speed in one small package. The plus side it might be cheaper in the long run.

[wannadiesel]

No need for valve springs unless you are adding an exhaust brake.

If the H1C is in OK shape, get the HTT Stage III or IV kit for it, then give back the HX-35.

With an Old Smoky fuel pin and a cranked up pump, 190's will squeak out a little over 300 HP.

[bgilbert]

I'm pretty sure the valve springs don't add any HP. I wouldn't worry about them unless you are running an exhaust brake... or turning 4k rpm .

I think you should buy KTA's injectors then I'll trade you a set of POD's for them . POD's are the best bang for the buck to get you 300rwhp. Just gotta live with a little idle haze.

Turbo, keep that hx35 and 16cm housing for awhile. Stock form it should be enough for 300rwhp. Then if you feel the need for more later down the road, skip the PDR or htt upgrade and get yourself one of them s300/htb2 62 type turbo's.

[PToombs]

The timing is already turned the 1/8th.
I HATE T-buckets! (except for the one I saw that had a 413 wedge cross ram induction on it!)
I can turn 3500 rpm now, without trying hard. I think I'll put in springs! All of them?
The N20 kit that I have only fits my bike.
KTA, any input?

[wannadiesel]

Yes, all of them. Keep a closer eye on valve lash with the heavy springs.

[KTA]

At 300 RWHP your most difficult thing will be keeping it cool pulling 15K around. I have a super 40 and at 290rwhp it can get pretty toasty with a full 4" exhaust too. I would look for a hx40 or even a s300 to put on there to keep it cool, otherwise a cranked pump POD's and ground pin/lever is proven capable to make 300+rwhp with enough air.

[PToombs]

I forgot! PDR intercooler on board already.

[PToombs]

I got my injectors, 370's. Thanks Dale! I ordered springs. Mark at PDR said over 3200 rpm, all valves should have 60# springs. Next is turbo upgrade.

[TWorline]

It sounds like you are well on your way Pete! Is the PDR intercooler a direct fit and any ideal how much CFM it will flow?

[PToombs]

Tim, I don't know how much it will flow. I do know the cores are about 3/8 of an inch thick, compared to 1/8 on the old one. They take the ends from old IC's and put in new cores. Mine was a slight misfit, they cut the core 1/2 " too short. I just shaved the core support a little for the tubes and it was ok. If you are interested, you have to talk to Mark Wilson. He is the one that does them (if he still does). When I called, nobody knew anything, until I talked to him. It was almost 2 years ago too.

[dpuckett]

I'd think you should be able to keep cool towing 15K with the PDR HX35 or a HTT upgrade. Just keep in mind, that when towing, the 16 is about the smallest you need to go due to drive pressure issues. MY old 91 actually towed better with a ported 18 than with a 12.

Have you done any manifold and/ or turbine housig porting yet? Look the old thread up on the TDR "How to Port and Polish" That can help to improve airflow and smooth things out, cooling you off a little.

Remember to keep RPMs up a little when towing- helps airflow and the Getrag life expectancy. I like to stay at 2000+ if I'm in hills. I'll go as low as 1800 (sustained) on the flat

Daniel

[PToombs]

I ordered the stage III compressor from GDS. HTT can't get compressor housings, Dave said he's been waiting 3 months! I was going for the stage IV, but with the GDS unit it needs machining, HTT was a bolt on. If I can get my butt off this computer I might get something done on the truck!
By the way, I chipped my turned down fuel plunger on sunday. I'm doing R&D now!

300th post!