b1 about to go, and will tranny handle head oring and s2000

[fourwheelininajeep]

I have a 90 that is non intercooled with the stock turbo, pushing 40 lbs of boost, I really like how it runs but of course I want more. The b1 turbo started making a frinicky sound at low boost(1-3PSI) and when I let of just taking it easy you can hear it spool down over my stacks. So I am looking to do it right I want to eventually go with a s2000 turbo, and oring the head and put head studs, with all that what kind of boost numbers am I looking at before something blows a part and will the getrag stay together, I imagine with this setup you could push 60lbs of boost and somewhere in the 400-500 hp range and over 1100 ft lbs would this be correct the getrag already has over 300000 miles on it but I drive it conservatively except when someone is tailgating and they need a smoke fix or when I just have to show off to my buddies.

Would non intercooled with water methanol injection keep it cool enough or with that kind of fuel going to light the s2000 are my egts going to be outrages, I alrady see 1700 degrees but I never keep it there for more than 15-20 seconds, would water meth cool it down enough.

Finally when I am ready, do you guys know anybody in the Colorado area that will do a head oring and where I can get head studs. Also I spun my clutch in 3rd gear the other day, I was leaving a stop sign and got after it because of oncoming trafic and I dropped the clutch in third gear with about 10lbs of boost and I went no where. Its the upgraded version of carquest but I have never seen that happen. I know centerforce makes a good clutch but a diesel doesnt turn the rpms to spin the weights to get it to lock up. Suggestions?

[SChandler]

I think some clarification might be in order first. 1st, what turbo do you currently have? If it is stock, it is a Holset H1C. A B1 is a Borg Warner, S300 based turbo and is far from stock. Second, what is a S2000 turbo? Are you talking about a turbo from a Honda S2000, an ATS Aurora 2000 turbo, or ? I'm not trying to be a jerk, but we need to know what you have before we can help.

As far as a clutch recommendation, I would say South Bend or Valair. Depending on what you want to do with the truck (daily driver, drag racer, sled pulling, off road, some combination of all of them) will dictate whether you go single or dual disc.

The Getrag is a good transmission so long as you keep it overfilled so that the bearings don't get dry on long climbs. Member KTA runs a Getrag in his 7500lb drag truck with 630hp.

Water methanol will help with EGT's.

[fourwheelininajeep]

Sorry, the s200 is a turbo that I heard about on this forum about 2 months ago, at the time it was the turbo to have for 400 horses and fast spool up. The turbo I got know is the stock one its the h1c I believe, I dont know the names of the turbos except for the 2nd and 3rd gen hx35 and upgraded 40 and I think there is a hx60 but I dont know. This is where you guys need to school me. If I wanted to oring the head and put enough to where its a daily driver but when I want to light up the turbo and break tires loose at 40 mph I can. I am not abusive towards anything on the truck and I am way overcareful with fluids, check it every 2-3 weeks do an oil change every 2500 miles. So as long as the getrag can handle it it wont break due to lack of maintenance it will break due to power. What kind of turbo would be good for what I am trying to do. For 400 or more horses and 1000 ftlbs of torque how big do I need to go and is an intercooler needed. My truck will outpull and outrun my Dads 91, his has a backs intercooler and a 12cm housing mine is stock with some bigger injectors,but my Dads has the same injectors I have. I believe that non intercooled can create more power but they are more prone to overheat and excessive egts.

[fourwheelininajeep]

It could be an s300 turbo like you said also. Like I said I dont know. I just want enough horses to blow muscle cars out of the water but I still want reliability and fuel mileage. If I am crazy just tell me you wont hurt my feelings, I just love what I have done to my truck so far and I want more. I think my truck is putting about 300 horses and 700 ft/lbs. I drove a late model 6.7 which is rated at 350 and 500 ft/lbs and mine felt about the same but I know it is putting more torque down. I could out pull that late model into the floor with a trailer but 1/4 mile would have been pretty close.

[SChandler]

No problem, I've been reading these forums for about 3 or 4 years and the terminology still gets me sometimes. The S300 is the one that everybody on here loves. There are half a dozen people or so on here that have made 400-450 with a single S300-series turbo. The specs on that one are 64mm inducer, 71mm exducer, and .8 A/R turbine housing (14.77cm^2 according to Gillette Diesel's old website). That is the turbo that was known as a B1 about 5 years ago and is one of the S300 models that all of the vendors charge about $1700 for a new one. Since it is a play toy more than anything else, that turbo and some bigger injectors (5x.014 or 6x.013 and up) should get you to your horsepower goals. Fuel mileage on these trucks is mostly controlled by your right foot.

[KTA]

You guys and your light trucks suck. Even with 600+hp and 1200+tq I never could get the tires on old'yellow to break lose on dry pavment at anything over 20mph or 2nd gear. Showoffs. LOL

[SChandler]

You guys and your light trucks suck. Even with 600+hp and 1200+tq I never could get the tires on old'yellow to break lose on dry pavment at anything over 20mph or 2nd gear. Showoffs. LOL

I have often wondered what old yellow would be capable of with in the 1/4 mile with slicks and a standard bed. Traction would be more of an issue, but the 1000-1500lb weight difference should make up for it.

[fourwheelininajeep]

If I wanted to I could break tire(not plural need to get a locker) at 30, but I would have to spool turbo and drop the clutch and that is how I slipped it in the first place. It really does go and goes well but I want more and I want to be able to hook the clutch then light them up, the right way to do it. Tha way I can have my fun without damaging something.

[SChandler]

If I wanted to I could break tire(not plural need to get a locker) at 30, but I would have to spool turbo and drop the clutch and that is how I slipped it in the first place. It really does go and goes well but I want more and I want to be able to hook the clutch then light them up, the right way to do it. Tha way I can have my fun without damaging something.

For clutch recommendations, you are really going to want to call up South Bend and Valair and get their input. Both companies have good reps in the diesel community. If you decide to go dual disc, then their might be some other options out their from some of the sled pulling shops (Scheid, Haisley's, EEP, Kenny's, etc.). Just make sure that whatever you do, you buy a 13" clutch. The 12.5" clutches aren't worth the effort to put them in. I'm pretty sure that rules out Centerforce and most, if not all, of the auto parts store brands.