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by **Cschafer** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:12 pm

The annual high school open house is this comming Thursday and the auto shop teacher wants to put my truck on the dyno to show the dyno off, it's kind of an honor considering the last three years have been differnt big block powered mustle cars over 500 hp. I'll probobly get 20+ dyno runs through the night with breaks in between so I figured I'd play with the afc settings a bit and see what happens. I wanted to get a baseline with this turbo anyway before I get my injectors next week so it kinda worked out good. I guess the question is what should I try as far as settings go to get the most from the settup. I havent touched the timing on the truck yet and probobly wont get around to making a wrench before then but how do I trick the KSB to advance it up to see what happens. I forget if I need to supply power or take it away on my Non I/C pump. Any suggestions?

by **90firstgen** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 2:44 am

Just unplug it on the non-i/c pickups and it will advance the timing.
Dan

by **PToombs** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:29 am

Don't go burning up the school's new Dyno! :lol:

by **Cschafer** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 12:50 pm

Hopefully it will hold up, I've got a lot more testing to do in the future. :twisted:

by **Cschafer** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 3:17 pm

well it didn't quite go as planned.http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177935

by **TWorline** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 5:16 pm

That is a bummer on the breakage. :cry:

HP looks pretty good though, I could not make out your torque number. I think maybe a driveshaft loop is in order for mine before April.

by **Cschafer** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:22 pm

there is no torque number. They don't have an optical pickup for rpm. Yeah loops were the next thing I was gonna make for the truck :cry:

Guess I should of got on that a little sooner.

by **PToombs** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 7:05 pm

I don't think they're gonna let ya on there again 'til they build a cage! :shock:

by **KTA** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 7:12 pm

That sucks. My guess is your lifted truck is playing havoc with your driveshaft angles thereby killing your u joints. Lifted trucks+ HP = lots of broke parts. Or you could can the tranny and t case and put a drop box and reverser in it and the problems would be solved.

by **TWorline** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 8:24 pm

The last driveshaft I saw that looked like that a new big truck driver did, he let the clutch out with his foot still firmly planted on the brake! :roll:

by **Begle1** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 7:03 pm

I didn't think you could break a drive shaft with stock injectors...

But what I really want to do is ask "HOW DOES YOUR HIGH SCHOOL GET A DYNO?" I've never known any high schools to have that kind of funding. That's awsome...

by **Cschafer** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:13 pm

area technical center, all the surrounding high schools come to it also. I have a whole collection of parts that I was hopeing would hold alot more then 300hp :roll:

by **KTA** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:10 pm

Cade, I saw on your other thread you lowered your transfer case 2 inches to help with the driveline angles???? How did you do that, remove all the rubber monuts, or totally refab and build a new transmission crossmember support? If you did that isnt your rear valve cover now against your firewall?? Either way you have to be running alot more angle in your u-joints than stock, and the strength of a u-joint is directly related to the angle it runs and its pretty much exponential. A u-joint running 0-5deg angle is more than twice as strong as one running at 20deg. Having destroyed a pickup load of driveshafts and u-joints sled pulling I am fairly well versed in power transmission through driveshafts. :twisted:

Not to say that was your whole problem, but a lift shure wont help when trying to put big power on the ground.

by **Cschafer** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:42 pm

It has 2in square tube lowering mounts with some custom supports. Stock rubber mount. Valve cover is half inch off firewall, fan shroud had to be clearenced. My next thing to do was build a new crossmember with my new tubing bender that is stronger and has a driveshaft loop integrated and new bigger traction bars mounted to it. The angles are seriously good. It vibrated due to being bent from a previous breakage due to way too much axle wrap(bent leave springs it wraped so hard). Now the 4 front driveshafts I've broke were due to excesive angle due to the old lift. Well three of them anyway, The first one was when it was at stock ride height. I will get it back together and holding together with the lift if it's the last thing I do :twisted:

Besides I threw in the towell on the 12in lift it's only five now. i do appreciate the advise guy's. Eventually it will be an all out pulling truck and I'll lower it and design up another one purpose suspension system. Untill then I have it riding good, looking good and I have most of the reliability issues worked out. I am learning with every step in the road and check out driveshafts better was deffinently added to the list. :cry:

by **KTA** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:52 pm

Of course now with your t-case tipped your front shaft is running at an even worse angle and its a shorter shaft so that amplifies the problem. Too bad you dont have a longer truck that would help the issue alot. I thought you had traction bars on your truck I am surprised it can warp the leaf springs at all. Thats driving hard. :twisted:

5 is probably doable. We have a decent powered 500+rwhp local truck puller with a 6in lift, hes been trying to get the drivetrain to stay in it for 3 years now.LOL He is determined to make it work too. Its nice to have goals. :wink:

You will get it ironed out I am shure, you will just probably need some stronger components.

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