60mm comp upgrade

[92 D/UNIT]

well got the compressor installed today not real impressed but did notice a small decrease in egts and has longer legs before getting to 1400, also a little more whistle.

[wannadiesel]

With that much fuel, a hybrid is kind of a band-aid. Works fine for a play truck, though.

[92 D/UNIT]

With that much fuel, a hybrid is kind of a band-aid. Works fine for a play truck, though.

why didnt you tell me that sooner? well at least it didnt cost a whole lot.

[Greenleaf]

I have based my (turbo) purchase(s) on the advice of others as well as the HP range in which a particular turbo will perform. I know many see the HX-35 w/58mm comp wheel a 300/350 turbo. In my case, the HTT 60 mm is advertised over 400 hp.

I figgure with that info at hand I must be 500 hp easy

I can vividly recall the HX-40 as a slow spooling unit and to avoid it. Whatever. My 35 take about seven city block to spool w/the 21cm and I'm accustomed to it.

The rebuild kit for the H1/HX-35 and 40 employ the same kit, so I guess that makes sense. You wouldn't replace the turbine shaft, just the bushings. The 40 has a bigger wheel, not shaft. I really didn't know that.

I need a LOT more air. I wish **I** knew that three year ago. The 35 hybrid was the answere to everybody's problem.

I have to wonder if my injection pump has a 14mm head installed by the PO?????? Your not supposed to see these kind of numbers with a 12mm head and POD's..................

[wannadiesel]

Mine got incinerator-hot with POD's too.

HTT's HP ratings don't take into account the 1st gen tendency to make ridiculous torque with relatively low HP numbers. It takes a lot of fuel to make that torque, and we need the air to keep it cool even if the HP number doesn't seem to justify it.

[dpuckett]

What kind of boost are you seeing with your temps? While that 21cm housing will keep low end spooling to a minimum, and theoretically save your drivetrain and tires, you have gone farther in pump mods than most, thus all but negating your AFC, right? If so, you may need to step up to a turbine housing that is designed for something smaller than a N14, that will spool faster to get the air there sooner than later. By the time the 21 spools, the pump has dumped enough fuel to get anything hot. Which HTT turbo set up did you get? I need something with more air, but I have bigger fish to fry at this time.

Daniel

[Greenleaf]

I *THOUGHT* the larger housing would save the rear tires....... NOT. I blew one apart. Took out the sheet steel/trim mold/fender support etc. One too many burns? You supposed to let off the throttle AFTER the turbo spools?

I see 35psi just by pressing down on the shinny pedle. It don't take long at all if you do it with 5-8 psi boost. I generally drive (drive, not race around) with 3 psi. I'd like a drive pressure gauge and a intake air temp gauge.

Yes, Pastor Bob tells me....er, told me, that his borrowed/modified HX-50 would not do anything untill he was really into the fuel and by that time, it was all over. Temps would quote " Fire pottery" by the time that thing spooled up. When it did though............

I hope to install my 18 or 16 housing some day, soon....... Pastor Bob @ PDR reworked a 16 for me. The interior is all cut apart I guess it flows more?

Correct. My pump(s) that I use don't have the afc. Found the gov assy was hitting the rev lever and not allowing full travel.

I have the machine cut (fat) hi-flow 60 wheel. They gotta take out material from the backing plate to fit it. Other 60's are narrower and will simply bolt in.l My wheel don't have very many vanes either. The OEM and the PDR 58mm had more vanes. The bolt-in 60 has more vanes too.

[92 D/UNIT]

so do wheels with less vanes flow more air?

[92 D/UNIT]

noticed since i put the new compressor my boost is down to 33 lbs from the previous 37 lbs,is this normal?

[Begle1]

so do wheels with less vanes flow more air?

I would say the they could flow more air but have a longer spool up. (Makes sense, right? )