Setting vane pump regulator?

[Begle1]

How do you do it? I here something about bonking it with a hammer to increase spring tension and give you a higher case pressure?

Alternative to KSB hotwire?

[Begle1]

Nobody has any idea how to adjust the vane pump regulator? Right underneath the line the goes into the KSB? Little springy device?

[fergavs]

Bang it down with a punch to raise case pressure. When tuned in conjuction with readings from a case pressure gauge it can allow you to hit a certain case pressure you are after. Otherwise its just a shot in the dark.

[seeker1056]

or u can raise your inlet pressure some, and play with the orrifice size in the return line to fine tune your case pressure

I am curious as to why you might wish to raise case pressure?

[Begle1]

I don't fully understand things...


What's case pressure regulated to stock?

With AFC modifications, fuel screw modifications, and bigger injectors, isn't it common to drop case pressure below the regulated pressure?

People say that their KSB hot-wires make a difference, through an increase in case pressure, which can only be true if case pressure was being successfully regulated beforehand. A KSB hot-wire isn't going to do anything if the vane pump is already at its capacity.

If the vane pump is not already at it's capacity, I would think that increasing regulator tension would be the optimum way to get more volume into the case.

I don't see the point in increasing pre-regulated fuel pressure if it's just going to be regulated back down after the vane pump anyways?

I also don't see how playing with orifice size will put more useable volume into the case, since the orifice is after the regulator?

[seeker1056]

more pressure is not necessarily more volume, unless the volume has some way to dissipate so if the return orifice is the end pressure releif/case pressure regulator, it needs to be modified to get more flow thru the pump

one can not open up and increase on one end and expect the unmodified other end to co-operate in any significant manner

it is the same ol same ol, one must massage all pieces to work together

I suspect what your really tryin to do is to get more fuel into the head/rotor assembly at higher rpm

you might do better to edm the passages that supply fuel there than be modifyin anywhere else

I am waiting to see if a lot more inlet pressure , and some internal mods, along with a significantly larger return orifice will allow much more fuel flow thru the pump thereby cooling it and still maintain 100 psi case pressure - kinda like a bypass regulator on your lift supply pump set up

that way there is much more cool fuel available and the rotor head then uses what it needs without cavitating or drawing down the pump and/or the case pressure in the system, and runnin outa fuel to pump

I have a few more thoughts on internal fuel flow but no way to prove any of them at the moment

I am hoping to work with Giles further on this as a means of breaking high 4000s and still maintain at least 250 cc's of fuel

I also suspect there is a lot of fuel/rpm to be gained by changing the profile of the cam plate rather than just the lift figures but again that is for someone with facilites to grind them and assemble on a test stand

the other thought i had was that one could do away with the internal vane pump altogether with the advent of using pumps like the A1000 or maybe a Tsunami pump and tap into the fuel supply passage to the head rotor assembly directly in front of the timing piston - that way fuel supply to the head is only limited by the external pump setup and the return orifice

The reason I think this, is that I read an old cummins literature wherein it was stated that the internal vane pump was the lift pump so to speak on the stationary engines and an external lift pump was only required once the motor was fitted into boats and trucks where the fuel supply was lower than the motor

I truly beleive there is a 5000 rpm VE IP in the near future - they are not that different from the very near identical VW pumps that turn 6000 rpm

[dpuckett]

....Except the rotor size, number of cylinders, and the fuel they push through said bigger rotors.

That said, go for it, that's what this site is all about. I personally have no reason to top 3000- I have plenty of bottom end, and enough gears to take me into the 95-100mph range.

Daniel

[fergavs]

95-100mph is not enough for me. I would like to see 120mph through the 1/4 mile traps. I agree that playing with the camplate could really open up some possibilities. Its just like the cam in an engine in that it controls lift and duration. My assumption as to why our fuel numbers fall off after 2600-2800 rpm is because the duration is so short there is not enough time to get fuel into the H/R assembly. I realize there is only so much that can be done on such a tiny plate but there may be lots sitting there on the table.

[KTA]

I think 120mph is pretty do able. If my truck was around 5000lb I think it could do it.