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by **RSWORDS** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:24 am

I have been doing some reading and am interested in this. Some people say to shave the advance side, a few the retarded side, and some say both.

Also everythread I find on it is VEY scattered with info. Can anyone help get me straight?

by **RSWORDS** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:45 am

Not sure how I got this into this section... :lol:

Could one of the mods move it the "The Good Stuff" for me?

Thanks

by **Richie O** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:40 am

RSWORDS wrote:Not sure how I got this into this section...

Could one of the mods move it the "The Good Stuff" for me?

Thanks

There ya go.

by **RSWORDS** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:31 am

Thanks Richie!

by **Bad93Cummins** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:33 pm

What does advance the timing do?

by **RSWORDS** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:15 pm

It gives the fuel a little more time to burn. It will drop EGT's on your gauge but teh heat is still on the piston. Also increases cyl pressure quite a bit. For a mostly stock truck 1/16th or 1/8th bump will increase power and mileage.

by **Begle1** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:53 pm

The VE pump, like most rotary pumps, is capable of advancing the timing as engine speed increases. You can modify the pump to advance the timing farther than it would otherwise.

Judging by the rudimentary drawing in slide 106, it would appear that shaving the piston on the side of the spring would allow for a larger maximum advance, while shaving the other side would allow for a more-retarded low-pressure timing.

It seems that shaving the not-spring side would let you advance the pump/ gear relation farther and gain a net increase in timing advance that way. Shaving the spring side would give you more timing advance without messing with rotating the pump.

I've never heard a value of how much can be removed from either side of the piston before the connecting lever contacts the case. Anybody ever clearance the case or connecting lever to get around that?

And then it seems like you could make the advance come on faster by either increasing the orifice size in the piston or reducing the tension on the spring. Anybody ever done that? Anyybody ever gone the other way?

What if you just put a spacer underneath one or both of the timing advance piston caps? Non-invasive bolt-on method of shaving the piston?

by **RSWORDS** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:29 pm

The VW guys say there are alot of different springs.

Here is what got me started on it...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3190912

by **Begle1** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:47 pm

Why is it that VW guys are so much better at this stuff than we are? :oops:

by **RSWORDS** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:24 pm

They have been doing it longer?

by **PToombs** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:36 pm

Their pumps are cheaper to build when they blow them up because they only got 3 or 4 ports. :lol:

by **MMiller** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:29 pm

They've been working on them since probably 1980 or so. Up until a couple years ago, nobody besides KTA, Old Smokey, and a few others thought there was more then 300 hp in our old rotarys, so no one really messed with them.

They've got almost 20 years on us......

Michael

by **seeker1056** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:54 pm

talk to Giles - he is the premier VW guy and the guy who built my race pump with all the internal advance etc

by **RSWORDS** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:01 am

I feel bad calling a shop and asking them how to do something. Thats whet they get paid for...

by **gear jammer 91"** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:01 pm

Is the advance piston behind the KSB? It's hard to tell in those pictures. Also, does the advance piston work differently in non-intercooled trucks?

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