Fuel pressure guage

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Fuel pressure guage

Postby 93DodgeCummins » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:01 pm

i am trying to figure out if i should get a Mechanical or Electrical Fuel pressure guage for my 1993 Dodge Cummins. can i get some help
93 Dodge W250 4X4, Custom air intake, Diamond Eye 4 inch turbo back straight pipe exhaust, HX-35W with Banks upgrades, KDP fixed, Getrag 5 speed, Isspro Tach, pyro, fuel pressure, and boost. Raptor 150, 3200 rpm spring, Power Screw in 1 turn, aftermarket fuel pin
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Postby mprmn08 » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:03 pm

mechanical is cheaper but your not supposed to put it inside the cab unless you have an isolator mounted on the outside firewall. elec. is nice but pricy
93 w250 reg cab. rigged up stock downpipe to 4 inch to 5 inch exhaust from p.o. mild pump tweaks and all other stock for now. Project "smoke a little smoke". www.c-techperformance.com
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Postby Richie O » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:09 pm

I have a Isspro in my 93 with an isolator. I have a another gauge for the 89 and am pretty sure its going in with out an isolator. If it was a gas rig I would not do it, but for furnace fuel, I think its pretty safe. You sure want a turn off valve just incase it does leak. That way you can turn off the gauge and keep on going.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby RSWORDS » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:22 pm

Richie O wrote:I have a Isspro in my 93 with an isolator. I have a another gauge for the 89 and am pretty sure its going in with out an isolator. If it was a gas rig I would not do it, but for furnace fuel, I think its pretty safe. You sure want a turn off valve just incase it does leak. That way you can turn off the gauge and keep on going.


Mine is run w/o an isolator, no issues yet. I do like your idea about the valve. I'm gonna add one.
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Postby PToombs » Fri Jan 08, 2010 5:49 pm

I have a valve on mine with no isolator. The valve helps damp out needle vibration too, just close it almost shut. With it open I can't even see the needle it bounces so fast.
I did sleeve my line from the firewall to the guage. If I do get a leak, it will run back outside. ;-)
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby GO OVRIT » Sun Jan 10, 2010 5:15 pm

I run mine with no isolator and havn't had any problems. What gauge are you running Pete? I've got an isspro with copper tubing running to it and the needle never flinches. I figured if it ever started to leak I'd just pinch the copper line until I go t home to fix it.
92 W250 ext cab 518, big sticks, a-1000, PDR HX40, 4" exhaust w/aeroturbine, pump tweaked, K&N filter Tims Cooler tubes and 3" i/c, gauges
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Postby Richie O » Sun Jan 10, 2010 5:18 pm

Mine does not flicker at all. I figured I would need to turn the snubber almost closed but it is fine wide open.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby PRINCETON_JAKE » Sun Jan 10, 2010 5:50 pm

I just finished putting a fuel pressure gauge in my 92. I bought the tapped banjo bolt and washers from genos garage. I put it where the bleeder screw was (after the fuel filter). I bought a mr.gasket mechanical gauge (0-15psi) and used a autometer installation kit with a copper line (dont use plastic. I didnt use a isolator, or a needle valve, and i dont get any needle flutter. Every thing costed about $50 including tax and shipping on the bolt.
1992 cummins, 2wd, A518, WH1c, 60mm,12cm housing, fuel screws maxxed, fuel pin turned and ground, 3200rpm spring, big Amsoil air filter, 4" stack, timming bumped, piston lift pump, Bosch 190's, 18" Maxxi Hulk rims, and Nitto Terra Grapplers.
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Postby PToombs » Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:05 pm

I have an Optix white faced guage, 1/8th pipe needle valve from Graingers, and regular oil pressure plastic tubing. I sleeved it from the firewall to the guage with a 1/2" plastic tube, and slid it over the fittings on the guage. I have to keep the valve almost closed or the needle jumps pretty good. It could be due to the piston LP.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby Richie O » Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:14 pm

PToombs wrote: It could be due to the piston LP.


I have 1 of those. :D still no jumpy. 8)
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby PRINCETON_JAKE » Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:14 pm

I can here a noise coming from my gauge, it sounds like the pulse of the fuel pump. Its kind of anouing, but i can deal with it.
1992 cummins, 2wd, A518, WH1c, 60mm,12cm housing, fuel screws maxxed, fuel pin turned and ground, 3200rpm spring, big Amsoil air filter, 4" stack, timming bumped, piston lift pump, Bosch 190's, 18" Maxxi Hulk rims, and Nitto Terra Grapplers.
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Postby DZL_Damon » Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:45 am

PRINCETON_JAKE wrote:I can here a noise coming from my gauge, it sounds like the pulse of the fuel pump. Its kind of anouing, but i can deal with it.


I bet that is coming from your copper tubing. Especially if it's touching some metal or even plastic on it's route through the firewall and dash. I might use copper as well, but I will use a least a little rubber as an isolator and flex mount. Copper is known to crack once in awhile due to vibrational stress. I've replaced many air, steam tracing, and some diesel lines at work due to it.

A valve is always a good idea. I'm not worried about a little diesel drip in the cab, I'll just tighten it if that does happen. However, if something was to spring a bad leak, the isolation valve (closer to the pump than the gauge) will let you get home without making a bigger mess than you already did!
-93 W350,CC, DRW, A518, Pump maxed, DDP3, DennyT, 4" DP, black muffler stack with flapper. HE351cw, CoolerTubz, PS I/C, 4601HP elec. fuel pump, 205k
-89 D250, clean utility bed, TF727, new IP, 76k
-09 VW TDI 2.0L CR, ~45mpg, 20k
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Postby ahale2772 » Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:17 am

i have some winters gauges on my truck (picked them up for 5 bucks at my local parker store), and my needle goes crazy im trying to figure out some way of getting a steady reading i put a air bubble in the line but it flowed back into my regulator any ideas? i was thinking of a little piece of copper tubing with a steel plunger in it with fittings at both ends and maybe some orings, then i could make it an isolator as well, but i dont really care if it leaked it would brobably clean the truck if it did
84 CCLB W350 project
94' W350 Dually, Diesel, Auto 1080HP/1980FTlbs
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Postby Ace » Wed Jan 20, 2010 12:10 pm

You need a snubber.
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Postby DZL_Damon » Wed Jan 20, 2010 1:51 pm

Put a small valve before the gauge preferably closer to the pump. Close it all the way and then just crack it. That jumping in the gauge will cease, and now you have a saftey shut off valve if there was a problem.
-93 W350,CC, DRW, A518, Pump maxed, DDP3, DennyT, 4" DP, black muffler stack with flapper. HE351cw, CoolerTubz, PS I/C, 4601HP elec. fuel pump, 205k
-89 D250, clean utility bed, TF727, new IP, 76k
-09 VW TDI 2.0L CR, ~45mpg, 20k
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