Ok, What is your goal(s) for your truck?

[PToombs]

Scott, mine won't be rust free! Hopefully just less rusty! I don't know about that 500hp thing either!

Cade, quit putting it on the dyno!

[mhuppertz]

I don't believe in the concept of consensual contact with a female

Dude, you need to stop drinking the bong water! I can't tell what part of your post is serious, and exactly where the psychotic break takes place (not that I would recognize it) because I myself frequent the neither world (naturally induced, no bong juice needed) but reading this post made me feel like the guy on the end of the rollerskate whip (to the tune of "puppy love" by Donnie O)....

Are you really building a drag truck?

[mhuppertz]

Oh, goals...
I want to be able to light the tires with just the throttle (without water/meth turned on) in the first 4 gears and still be streetable and able to haul an occasional load if I'm careful.
This may not be possible I know, but it's what I want.

[Begle1]

Are you really building a drag truck?

At the moment I'm focusing on getting my truck out of the body and frame shop, and getting more than $3000 from the hairy-butt-sweat-sucking insurance company to pay for the $4000 in body work.
Then I'm installing my manual valve body. Then I'm installing my veggie stuff. Then I'm getting exhaust, a 12 cm w/g housing and air intake. Then I'll consider my stage one modifications complete. I'm probably going to need new injectors, don't know what sort I'm gonna end up with. I'm also looking for one of those S110 axles because I desperately seek limited slip.

Stage II is going to consist of lots of water, nitrous and methanohol. And twins if I can find the help to weld me them and save enough money up to get my head all fixed up. But by that point I would also need internal tranny work, which I haven't been able to find a guide for and is way too much money from the pros.

I don't believe in the concept of consensual contact with a female

Where'd you find [i]that quote?[/i]

I'm always sincere, just not genuine. What I feel and say is real, but "I" find it difficult to consider myself enough of a coherent identity to hold convictions in any of it.

[mhuppertz]

I'm glad to hear you are working on a project. I can recommend the Cheetah manual shift - reverse pattern valve body for the TorqueFlite because it is unbreakable. You will need to consider polyurethane or solid motor mounts because the shift is as hard as it gets (which I like). Are you considering a clutch setup instead on the torque converter?

By the way, I didn't mean to make light of what you wrote earlier. I just sometimes have a hard time telling when you are being sarcastic because you tend to have a sardonic edge to your humor. I appologize.

[Begle1]

I would like to consider new motor mounts. When I got in an accident one of my old grody motor mounts broke, so the shop installed some pretty wimpy ones. If anybody has any sort of information on some more solid ones I'd be appreciative.

I hear that most of the high horsepower guys and sled pullers fabricate a triangular brace from the frame to the engine block; I figure that sounds like something I'll need to do.

My manual valve body is a forward-pattern Hughes. I've heard good things about Hughes and the speed shop in my area doesn't stock anything else, and I'm used to the forward-pattern shifts and would like to maintain engine braking.

What do you mean by clutch set-up?


No need to apologize; I was just wondering where you pulled that quote out of. I mean, I'm the one that spams boards at random with my diatribes, but I tend to wonder at the integrity of my mind when I'm quoted as saying something I don't remember... Thought I had a grip on the multiple personalities...

[mhuppertz]

I actually cobbled the quote together to be cute. It didn't work....

By clutch I mean "ClutchFlite". My next project will have one. Solid mounts would be heck on the ears because all of the engine vibration comes in through the frame that way, but I didn't mind it on the 'Cuda because I could diagnose the engine really well!
On a Cummins, I think I would go deaf unless it was purely a sport model....

I'm not familiar with the Hughes valve bodies. I will look that up.

[Begle1]

So what's the story with polyurethane mounts? Kind-of half-way between the rubber mounts and the solid mounts?

I would tend to think that, without the shock-absorbtion of the rubber, the entire truck would be shaken to pieces... Maybe on a drag-only model...


I don't quite understand the clutch-flite... The idea is to replace the T/C with a clutch. You use a clutch pedal for starting and when you stop, but then when you shift, you use the valve body... So you couldn't powerbrake, but you wouldn't loose boost between shifts either.

How does the clutch fit in the bell housing? Do they sell modified housings with clutch-cylinder provisions?

I don't think I'm going that route with this truck any time soon. Not only did I just get my Goerend's TC, but I'm using the clutch pedal for my front-only brake system.

I love the concept, though... No heat, perfect lock-up...

[mhuppertz]

Actually you cut the bell off of the TorqueFlite and machine it for a regular bell housing. It's awesome, but the input shaft has to be huge. The stocker would twist in two like a piece of taffy!

They make poly mounts for some HP applications, but we would have to cobble a set up for our application. I think I saved my old mounts, so I might try it (someday).

Using the clutch pedal for a line lock is a novel idea. I had a solenoid on the 'Cuda. I would stand on the brakes, hold the button in, load the suspension and wait for the light. Line locks are a great way to keep from breaking suspension and driveline parts!!!

[mhuppertz]

Here's some interesting flash traffic on the subject...



Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlock_440
Clutchflite?? I think I've heard of them. Care to elaborate? Sounds interesting.

Devin

Well, let's see. I started with a clutchflite that was based off of a pushbutton 727 that had a very whacked valve body. I did a huge amount of research on what a 727 likes and doesn't, with a slant towards safety and durability. That research, plus the fact that i didn't want to use a pushbutton trans, made me want to upgrade it to a newer style 727. One problem cropped up though. The pushbutton trans had a smaller input shaft and stator support than the linkage shift 727, so if I wanted to update all of it, I had to have shafts made (input and pump drive tube). Also, when I took measurments, I found that the input shaft was one inch too short for a mopar bellhousing. (It turns out the trans was made for a chevy application.) I called Jim's Performance transmissions, and he said he could make me the shafts for $500. Well, he made a commitment he couldn't deliver on. He made the pump drive tube out of an old clutch turbo 400 tube, and put the two halves of it together with 1/8 inch roll pins. This was unacceptable to me, so I sent it back. I guess it's a good thing he didn't try to make the input shaft! I ended up having Mark Williams make them for me. It wasn't cheap, but the shafts were a work of art! I cut the bellhousing off of a case to accomodate the adapter plate (which also pilots the throwout bearing), and started the trans build. I used a lot of parts from A and A Transmissions, including thier aluminum front and direct drums, lightened sun shell, and bolt-in sprag.

Well, on to how it works. The clutch is for starting and stopping only. The pump is driven by the pressure plate release levers whenever the engine is running. The internal passages for torque converter oil flow are rerouted to send oil straight back to the lube circuit, and no cooler is needed, since there is no converter to make all that heat. It shifts like Godzilla kicked the back of the car, but it is not a driveline-clattering type of shift that would break parts. The best thing about it is that the stall speed is wherever I want it. At the strip, I dump the clutch at 5200 rpm, and it takes it all without a bit of complaint!

[Begle1]

The Clutchflite sounds like too much work for too little of a benefit.

A really tight T/C with a manual valve body would be almost as fast a shift, you could powerbrake, it'd be way cheaper of a build, you could keep lock-up if it was a 47RE or up, you'd have torque multiplication off of the line and you would probably break less parts. You wouldn't have the sort of stall-speed control as you'd have on a clutch, but if you were that serious about it you'd have a custom TC at whatever stall speed you'd want. And I'd always be stalling it whenever I'm at a stop sign on top of a hill.

I think that the clutchflite was more popular back before DTT and ATS started making lock-up TC's good for over 1000 HP. If John Force drove a Diesel, it might be an option; otherwise I don't see the pratical advantage.

[mhuppertz]

Definately not practicle, but fun!

[Begle1]

Couldn't you use the clutch between shifts and make the whole process as smooth as a standard manual?

[mhuppertz]

Couldn't you use the clutch between shifts and make the whole process as smooth as a standard manual?

In theory yes. The main shock to the driveline would be eliminated that way, but (depending on the line pressure) the trans still bangs into the next gear and gives a little kick because of the intertial shock in the trans. It's cool though!

Interestingly, with the amount of torque these engines have just cruising around and shifting gets smoothed out a lot my the slip of the tires. My 'Cuda would slightly spin the tires each shift which really smoothed it out. When you are in it an hooked the shift is like getting hit in the teeth with a ball peen hammer with solid motor mounts (in a good way)

[93 dually]

Iwould love to hit the loto so i could really have fun and not have to save for a year