AFC FOOT GRIND

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AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby spencermumma » Tue May 11, 2010 5:50 pm

So this question maybe be dumb but im learning what exactly will grinding down or removing the AFC FOOT/LEVER do? is it worth to do? if so how hard is it to do and does anyone have any pictures?
Thanks Spencer
1990 Dodge W250 5 inch stacks no muffler, Star wheel bottomed out, Smoke screw turned all the way, Fuel screw maxed, Denny T Fuel Pin, 2inch lift with 33x12.50 and alot more to come shooting for 450 horsepower any suggestions?
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby oldestof11 » Tue May 11, 2010 5:57 pm

If you take it out, it basically disables the fuel cone, giving full fuel all the time.
Jon
93 D250~ Mismatch of cheap parts, trying to look fast going slow
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby spencermumma » Tue May 11, 2010 5:58 pm

and waht would grinding it down do?
1990 Dodge W250 5 inch stacks no muffler, Star wheel bottomed out, Smoke screw turned all the way, Fuel screw maxed, Denny T Fuel Pin, 2inch lift with 33x12.50 and alot more to come shooting for 450 horsepower any suggestions?
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby IowaCummins » Tue May 11, 2010 6:05 pm

same thing as taking it out but grinding it down eliminates the chance of re installing it later on down the road. i mean you can weld back material but thats just alot of time and paitence.
1993 Dodge W250 Reg cab. Auto, .010" headgasket, A1 Studs. Just the Lil Ole VE pump Fuelin 7x.014's turnin the Aurora 3000 turbo. 5" Turbo back to Duals. :cbadge:
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby ZSkibo » Wed May 12, 2010 1:49 pm

DO NOT GRIND IT!!!! That's just the lazy method of taking it out but it ensures that you'll never be able to put it back in. Do it right the first time...it only takes an extra 10 minutes to remove it and put some set screws in the retainer holes. Prior to installing my 6x18's I ran no AFC and I liked it. My truck did NOT like the lack of an AFC once the firehose injectors went in. Had I ground the lever I would have had to source a new one.
92 W250 Pump bombed, AFC out, 366 spring, 18* timing, KSB hotwired, HX35 12cm non wg, New Era 6x18's, BHAF, 60 lb in/ex springs, 4" PAC Brake, onboard air, Nathan P3 horns
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby PRINCETON_JAKE » Wed May 12, 2010 7:05 pm

Does any one have a link or a picture of how to remove it?
1992 cummins, 2wd, A518, WH1c, 60mm,12cm housing, fuel screws maxxed, fuel pin turned and ground, 3200rpm spring, big Amsoil air filter, 4" stack, timming bumped, piston lift pump, Bosch 190's, 18" Maxxi Hulk rims, and Nitto Terra Grapplers.
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby ZSkibo » Thu May 13, 2010 2:40 pm

Just follow the instructions for the 366 spring install. When the pump top is off you just tap out both retainer balls on either side of the shaft that the AFC lever rides on. Run a 1/4-20 tap in both holes, clean. Reinsert the shaft with the AFC on it (obviously), put a SMALL dab of RTV in the holes, run your two set screws in tight. Re-assemble your pump (hopefully with the 366 spring instead of the stocker), and you're done.
92 W250 Pump bombed, AFC out, 366 spring, 18* timing, KSB hotwired, HX35 12cm non wg, New Era 6x18's, BHAF, 60 lb in/ex springs, 4" PAC Brake, onboard air, Nathan P3 horns
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby PToombs » Thu May 13, 2010 5:45 pm

Each ball has to come out it's own side. Drive from one side until the opposite ball falls out, then drive from that side to remove the 2nd one. The holes are stepped inside.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby ZSkibo » Fri May 14, 2010 4:10 pm

I meant that....sorry! I always assume other people know what I'm saying.
92 W250 Pump bombed, AFC out, 366 spring, 18* timing, KSB hotwired, HX35 12cm non wg, New Era 6x18's, BHAF, 60 lb in/ex springs, 4" PAC Brake, onboard air, Nathan P3 horns
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby ahale2772 » Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:15 am

im bringing this post back from the dead...

my questions:

1) when disabeling the afc what is actually removed?

2) does the afc pin stay or go? (what does one replace it with if so?)

3)does the whole afc lever get removed?

4)will my cable shut off still work?

5) what gets tapped with 1/4-20 thread?(im guessing the thread replaces the balls that hold the afc lever pivot pin..but why not just replace the balls?)...

6) does the refrigerator light stay on when I close the door?

seems like im doomed to be eternally confused as to how to remove the afc, im thinking im gona rip it apart to get a better understaning, but I definitly want to do it so I can replace it if smoke is heavy.

I might clip my 366 spring while im in there to get a few more revs...any advice on that?
84 CCLB W350 project
94' W350 Dually, Diesel, Auto 1080HP/1980FTlbs
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby Cnp22 » Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:12 am

Im bringing this post back from the dead...

my answers: (that I know)

4)will my cable shut off still work?

Yes

6) does the refrigerator light stay on when I close the door?

No I made my little brother get in...

I might clip my 366 spring while im in there to get a few more revs...any advice on that?

I zip tied mine...
1992 auto, pump mods, 5x16's, 66/74, 8.9 1/8th
1992 getrag, p-pump, 540hp 1300fttq, 8.4 1/8th, 13.2 1/4
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Re: AFC FOOT GRIND

Postby ciamcoop » Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:40 am

It will be smoky if, er I mean when, you mash on it. You will notice a drop in MPG, people saying you're #1, people flagging you down to say something is wrong with your truck, and that you spend a lot more time looking in the passenger side mirror.....
'93 W250LE 4x4 club cab, getrag, denny t, 366 spring, 181/210 cam, bored. 020, KDP, 5x.014's, piston pump, 4" tbe, cold air, 255/85/16s, 3.54's one wheeler peeler
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