When do you stop and what does it mean?

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When do you stop and what does it mean?

Postby Begle1 » Sun Jun 10, 2007 9:33 pm

So I found runaway really quick after I took the lock collar off the fuel screw. :)


There's a lot of turns that don't runaway but that really like to carry away the RPM's when you fuel it in idle. When you're a twist before runaway, the RPM's carry away after you take them to 1400 RPM, then they drop off real slowly when you get off the pedal. Then, as you continue to turn the screw down, the RPM that the pump carries itself away gets higher, and the drop-off time after you take off the pedal becomes un-noticeable.

I tried to turn it to the point that it maintained speed at all RPM's in idle; then I drove around for a while and noticed that I have absolutely no EGT problems. Then after I was driving it for a while and warmed it up, I took it to 2400 RPM in idle and noticed that it did climb a bit on it's own. But it fell right back down when I took the foot of the pedal.

So, the question is, where do most people stop? Do most stop right before it starts to climb away on its own, or do they stop right before the RPM's don't drop when you release the pedal?

Did my pump really start fueling itself because it got hot, or did I just not notice it before? If the pump loosens itself up as it gets hot, wouldn't it be possible to warm one into a state of runaway?

Since I have 1/4 inch of the screw left and I can still not hit 1250 EGT's, I have the feeling that I'm expected to tweak it farther...
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby wannadiesel » Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:07 pm

I like it to drop right back to idle. You can get away with a pump that hangs a little with an automatic, but it's real annoying with a stick.
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

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Postby Begle1 » Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:02 pm

But it's standard practice to have it tuned up to where it rives itself rev's past a certain point?


And I can definitely say that the pump get's looser at temperature; right when I start I can hold it at 3000 RPM, but once the thermostat opens it climbs at 2400.

So is that a sign of pump wear? And, more importantly, wouldn't it imply that it's possible for a pump to heat itself into a condition of runaway?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby dpuckett » Mon Jun 11, 2007 9:32 pm

ALL hotordded pumps I have had will run off on their own past a certain point either idling or in lower gears. Mine takes off at about 1750 and revs up to the redline if I let it. It pulls to about 2800 in 2nd and 3rd gears.

Mine have always come right back down to idle when I let off the throttle, though.

Daniel
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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