How can you get a 1st gen to squeek into the low 20mpg?

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How can you get a 1st gen to squeek into the low 20mpg?

Postby Firstgenfanatic » Fri Jul 27, 2007 12:26 pm

Ok, I was wondering what successful mods and such some people have done to improve the fuel economy on thier rigs? I realize that these pickups are not fuel sipping, zip around town vehicles. I own a 93' extd cab 4x4 with auto and was curious on what can be done to improve fuel economy. I'm already aware of proper front end alignment, smaller width tires, properly tuned engine, etc, etc. I was told that a different exhaust housing for the turbo would help out tremendously. Another thing would be going to the 4" straight exhaust. Any other ideas or suggestions?
*1993 Dodge Ram W250 club cab*, mild performance built A518, Hughes Converter, turned-up VE w/timing bump, tow package, 16x7 Alcoa wheels, M&H "M5" fuel pin, 366 gov spring, 4" exhaust, 16cm turbine housing, cold air intake, Isspro pyro/trans/tach/boost, KDP secured
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Postby Begle1 » Fri Jul 27, 2007 1:39 pm

When I first got my truck, my dad ran it down the freeway to a jobsite loaded full of gear and with a small trailer and got 20 MPG; he only went 55-60 since he was charging customers for transit time and so didn't have a reason to speed.

Meanwhile, I got the truck, went the same route back empty going 80, and got 15 MPG, which I typically maintain between the 3000 RPM cruise and the around-town dressage, and the really old injectors.


The single greatest fuel mileage mod is to drive slower; these things have the aerodynamics of a brick and need to work twice as hard at 80 as they do at 65.

Other than that, you need non-worn and properly adjusted injectors, a tighter torque convertor for automatics, and a turbo that isn't eating itself to death. All the other stuff helps to a lesser degree as well; properly inflated tires, alignment, clean filters, freely flowing exhaust, etc.

Or you can say screw it all and run straight vegetable oil. Which I am eteranlly in the process of converting over to.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby PToombs » Fri Jul 27, 2007 2:09 pm

BHAF, (big honkin air filter), at least get rid of the muffler, 16cm housing on the turbo. A set of 190 injectors are a power improvement and use less fuel. Turn the fuel screw in a little. Don't touch the smoke screw or the afc spring.
Like Begle said, drive conservatively. If you don't mind spending some money, buy a tighter torque converter.

On the other hand, then you'll like the power, go to bigger injectors, turn the fuel screw in a lot, bigger turbo, add a 3200 governer spring, etc.....Welcome to the slippery slope! :lol:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby sdstriper » Fri Jul 27, 2007 6:38 pm

I'm getting 20+ consistantly without towing and driving it pretty hard at times. Non I/C 2wd std. cab, pump turned up, 4" exhaust and BHAF. 3spd automatic with TCI converter and 3.07 axle. No other mods.
1989 D250, 727, 3.07, BHAF, 4" exhaust, Usual Suspect Gauges, tuned VE, OSPP
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Postby Firstgenfanatic » Fri Jul 27, 2007 6:54 pm

So far the comments have helped me gauge what a guy can do. I do drive the truck conservatively.....usually not over 65mph or anything. When you guys talk about BHAF, are you refering to getting rid of the plastic air-box and getting an aftermarket filter? More insight on this BHAF would help. Thanks
*1993 Dodge Ram W250 club cab*, mild performance built A518, Hughes Converter, turned-up VE w/timing bump, tow package, 16x7 Alcoa wheels, M&H "M5" fuel pin, 366 gov spring, 4" exhaust, 16cm turbine housing, cold air intake, Isspro pyro/trans/tach/boost, KDP secured
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Postby 90firstgen » Fri Jul 27, 2007 7:25 pm

I concur with everyone else. Driving slower is the most help. But the simple thing is: air in and air out. Get a BHAF or K&N and go to a stock exhaust w/ straight pipe or go full 4" turbo back.
1990 2x4, 3/4 ton, Getrag, Cummins N/I
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MPG is all about Aerodynamics and Gearing + Right Foot

Postby Ace » Fri Jul 27, 2007 9:04 pm

Power mods and engine efficiency improvements help of course, but they are maybe 10% of the fuel mileage equation at best. Gearing (including tranny choice), aerodynamics and driving style account for the other 90% in probably about equal proportions. 3.54s turning slightly bigger tires driven conservatively with a 5sp in a good-running truck should normally net you around 25mpg highway. I know there's people out there that will claim they got 30mpg highway with a tailwind on a long downhill trip, but seriously.

Driving style and aerodymics go hand-in-hand. Accelerate crisply (not obscuring the daylight with your foot on the floor "crisply") up to 65 or 70mph max on the highway. Cruise any faster and the pickup's brick-like aerodynamics start to take a heavy bite out of your fuel budget.

Gearing and tires also go hand-in-hand. Tires factor into the gearing. Stock tourque converters bleed power. 4.10s with an un-modded slushbox and stock tires, you're looking at 15-17mpg or less, depending on driving style.
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Postby Firstgenfanatic » Sat Jul 28, 2007 12:40 pm

The specs on my truck is.........93' extd cab 4x4, 3sp w/overdrive, 3.54 gears, 285/75/R16's, everything is stock........including the air filter. If I install a BHAF, does a person eliminate the plastic air-box? What is a good air cleaner setup for a 1st gen?
*1993 Dodge Ram W250 club cab*, mild performance built A518, Hughes Converter, turned-up VE w/timing bump, tow package, 16x7 Alcoa wheels, M&H "M5" fuel pin, 366 gov spring, 4" exhaust, 16cm turbine housing, cold air intake, Isspro pyro/trans/tach/boost, KDP secured
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Postby PToombs » Sat Jul 28, 2007 5:15 pm

That's what I did. A word of caution, cover the top of the filter. Water runs off the hood, down the fender, and dripped on my new BHAF. I never thought about it, started the truck and it smoked white, ran like it had a sock in it! :shock: I pulled the filter, it was soaking wet! I left it out and went to work, took a week to dry out. Now I have a 5 gallon pail cut in 1/2 over it, works good. I'am going to put an Old Smokey mount on it soon.

K+N's are ok if you aren't in a high dust area. If you are, it lets the fine stuff right thru.
pete

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Postby Firstgenfanatic » Sat Jul 28, 2007 9:16 pm

I would be very interested to see some pics of BHAF's on 1st gens. I need a visual aid to give me a better idea of materials and design.
*1993 Dodge Ram W250 club cab*, mild performance built A518, Hughes Converter, turned-up VE w/timing bump, tow package, 16x7 Alcoa wheels, M&H "M5" fuel pin, 366 gov spring, 4" exhaust, 16cm turbine housing, cold air intake, Isspro pyro/trans/tach/boost, KDP secured
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Postby sdstriper » Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:12 pm

I'll add that driving by the boost gauge regardless of speed etc would be helpful, many variables as has been stated but when you get over 10lbs+ boost cruising your not using fuel efficiently
1989 D250, 727, 3.07, BHAF, 4" exhaust, Usual Suspect Gauges, tuned VE, OSPP
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Postby RumbleFish » Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:03 pm

Firstgenfanatic wrote:I would be very interested to see some pics of BHAF's on 1st gens. I need a visual aid to give me a better idea of materials and design.


Head over to DTR. Theres this exact thread going on right now.
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Postby Begle1 » Mon Jul 30, 2007 8:27 pm

You're right, they do have the exact same thread.

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... p?t=162260

Even though some of use have to remember to get new IP's every time they get one of their accounts banned...
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby PToombs » Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:18 pm

I was going to put up the link to the Old Smokey housing the other day, and the page wouldn't come up. DTR sucks! :roll:
pete

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Postby wannadiesel » Wed Aug 01, 2007 2:40 pm

Begle1 wrote:You're right, they do have the exact same thread.

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... p?t=162260

Even though some of use have to remember to get new IP's every time they get one of their accounts banned...
Oh, did it smart when I rapped your "knuckles"? :lol:
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

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