On board air- for flat repair ?

[draginmopars]

while driving yesterday, had a slight shake in the front



today, BANG, tire blew out> left front...(New tires last year)
had a floor jack and breaker bar/socket.
got the nuts broke loose
first problem truck sat to LOW to jack up, found a 4" tall flat rock, drove up on it, so we could jack the truck
fixed and on the road..
( gonna cut a 6" x 6" x2' with a angle on one end (ramp) to have for next time)
Then got to thinkin, even with an extension, couldn't change rear tires.> read> TIGHT, thought I was gonna break the breaker bar.

so we are looking for an 12 volt air compressor to run a 3/4 impact for wheel nut removal

Any one use this
http://viaircorp.com/2on2_pressure_universal.html

[bmoeller]

As small as the tank is, it'll take a lot of time, but should get it done. The twin compressors will help a LOT though.

May work faster/better to get an inverter and household 110v compressor. Might be cheaper too.

[Mark Nixon]

The PROPER (OEM) manual tools, along with a pipe for a breaker are all you need on the roadside.
That would be the stock Budd wrench and crack bar, or something equivalent for a crack bar.
If you're bending stock crack bars, then the nuts are too tight.

Also, an impact is not the way to torque the lugnuts down, or, really to remove them, it rattles the splines in the studs loose, though a BIG impact is LESS likely to do that on REMOVAL only because there's less impacts per minute.
I can't tell you how many trucks I have had that ended up needing new rear studs because some idiot (s) felt they HAD to torque the nuts down with a 3/4" impact and stretch the crap out of the studs, so the next poor schmuck comes along and spins the stud in the hub.

Have all of the lugnuts loosened, making sure the threads are clean and not burred or partially missing, as well as a little bit of anti-seize on every stud before you put the nuts on, then re-install the nuts tightened to spec,.
I've found that "close to spec" is out on the end of the stock crack bar, about a 1/4 to 1 full turn after FIRM seating (snugged down, not torqued) of ALL 8 NUTS to the wheel, is within reason of spec.

Mark.

[Burritoboi5]

I agree it's probably easier to just bring anti-sneeze and a longer breaker bar. But onboard air is nice. I've had good luck with the VIAIR compressors. The one I'm running in my truck now has lasted the past 4 years feeding my airhorns. I used to have an additional 5 gallon tank hooked up to it that I used for air tools. It honestly, wasn't that great for impact guns and such because it lacked the CFM at pressure. But I used to love having it for running nail guns doing off site carpentry.

[HHhuntital]

I've run both Viair and Puma compressors for on board air, and while they are slow, they are rediculously reliable. I've had one of the Puma's burn up in almost 10 years, and none of the Viairs, but I don't run them as much.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-volt-1-5-gal ... 5892f9ca26

[draginmopars]

Mark,
All i'm looking to do, is break them loose...

[Mark Nixon]

Then you need the proper OEM manual tools.
After all, it's what they are designed for.

Mark.

[ellis93]

That thing won't run an impact wrench. You need volume not pressure to run one,especially a 3/4 drive.
Personally I use a dewalt electric 1/2 drive impact with a huge inverter with a heavy extension cord.
I also use an impact on wheel studs EVERY day,so......I don't agree with it not being the "thing to use". Sometimes its not the tools fault,its the idiot using it.
I'd love to see some one use a 4-way on a big truck

[Mark Nixon]

Ah hell with it, just put a Bendix Tru-Flow on the engine (OBAC), then you'll be able to twist them all of with a 3/4" impact wrench the RIGHT way.

I have a big single that moves @ 10+CFM that ought to break a few studs.
If that's too little, then I have a medium-sized twin that'll move @ 12+ CFM, to do the trick even more thoroughly and quicker.
They'll definitely keep a 5 gallon compression tank pumped full.

Mark.

[ellis93]

How long are studs suppose to last? 150 or 200yrs? I make no assumptions about what you work on,only about what you say, and seems to me that your basing your opinions on 20+or-yrs old vehicles. Vehicles that have burnt up several sets of brakes and tires,so they've been off and on a few times I'm sure

Technically you would first use a torque stick(6" long piece of spring steel that limits the poundage the impact produces) upon tightening of the lugnuts. Then you'd use a torque wrench to reach the proper torque of the stud/nut. Does your breaker/crack bar or 4way do that,if not then its the wrong way as well

There is also what's called MAP guide lines (Motorist Assurance Program) out,Google it. If a shop doesn't want to be sued then they use it.

[Mark Nixon]

Ellis, regardless how you try to word it, the point is, a Budd Wrench and crack bar ARE the "approved" roadside tire changing equipment and wonder of wonders, they work PERFECTLY WELL in the right hands.

Mark.

[ellis93]

So do impacts

[Mark Nixon]

So do impacts

But don't be surprised if they spin a stud loose on ya'.

Mark.

[ellis93]

I'll just twist it off. No biggie. I've enough air that it doesn't matter.
My motto is "tighten till it strips then back off half a turn".

[Mark Nixon]

Until you do it on the roadside, then you just get all pissed off.
I'll lay odds that you're going to rattle one loose with your mighty impact here in the next week or so, then you'll be cussing ME about it.

Mark.