VE Injection Pump Rebuild

[Mark Nixon]

Okay.
I must have mis-understood, because you mentioned you were using the manual shutdown lever and I thought it might have been because the FSS malfunctioned,
I had seen where you said you "gutted" it, but I was unclear as to why.

Mark.

[Luther Grimace]

I gutted it to make sure that wasn't the problem.

[Luther Grimace]

The more I think about it the more I think could be the problem. When I got the new engine put together the VE pump was empty from my having pulled it off the other engine and it draining out. When I went to crank the engine I was not getting any fuel supply to the pump. It ended up being a dirt dobber had clogged up the supply side to the filter. I am wondering if me trying to crank it so many times while empty wore down the vanes and insert to the point where it was almost through the hardened surface. I keep trying to talk myself out of doing it myself because I want it done soon but at the same time that is alot of money in my pocket if I can rebuild it myself.

[Hansen01]

I had mine done by Midwest diesel In beemer it was close to like $1300
This is what they had to replace in mine
GASKET KIT($21.09)
BUSHING VE($28.18)
THROTTLE SHAFT($53.30)
BALL($3.68)
COILED SPRING($19.71)
SPRING SET($50.34)
DRIVE SHAFT($175.18)
DRIVE SLOT($102.02)
CAMPLATE($224.68)
NUT
SCREW
O RING
O RING
BLADE TERMINAL
GASKET($7.36)

[Luther Grimace]

From the looks of it I might as well throw a P pump on it.

[RCCUMMINS89]

Doesn't cost you anything if you look at it yourself, then figure it if it worth it from there.

And Hansen got analized

[Mark Nixon]

...And Hansen got analized...

No doubt about that.
I wonder where the extra 'O' rings and gasket came from?
The typical DGK-121 kit comes with every damned one you would use, if you re-seal it completely and correctly.
I find it curious that they replaced the cam plate, yet nothing is mentioned about rollers and pins, much less the shim between the rotor and cam plate?

I'm betting poor Hansen didn't even ask for his old parts back.

Luther, if I were nearby, I'd do some more troubleshooting on that thing for ya'.
I can't believe that simply cranking on it would have torn anything up, especially since it ran for a bit with apparently no issues, right before it up and just shut down.
Hell, you did nothing more than simply swap the pump over!

Mark.

[Hansen01]

I may not have typed them, i couldnt member where the actual bill was. The parts list was a page long
Mainly on whhat i listed was the more exspensive stuff, if i recall correctly they did replace that stuff Mark
The place does good work and he called me wondering how it even still ran, but no i did not ask for my parts back, i just wanted it to run again. Raped on the price? maybe, but it works, and works very well, if i get another one i probably would just take it to Mark and have him do it

[RCCUMMINS89]

If such things inside were broken that even the camplate needed replaces, then no.... price wasn't that bad and comparable.

[BC847]

the shim between the rotor and cam plate

Would anyone know what the correct clearance is when adjusted with that selectable shim?

[Mark Nixon]

I have a brand new 192 HP one here, I can try to run the dial indicator on it and get a shaft play spec from it.

Mark.

[Luther Grimace]

Does anyone know how the fuel stop solenoid cuts off the fuel supply? I'm guess it cuts the flow to the distributor head?

[Mark Nixon]

Luther, the FSS has a hard plastic "stopper", preloaded via a spring.
The "stopper" fits in the hole directly below the solenoid housing, stopping the flow.

David, for shaft play I measured 3 pumps and got anywhere from .010-.018 on the three.

Mark.

[BC847]

Does anyone know how the fuel stop solenoid cuts off the fuel supply? I'm guess it cuts the flow to the distributor head?

The Electrical Shutoff device and the Mechanical Shutoff device are two entirely different means of stopping fuel delivery from the VE rotary injection pump.

- The Electrical Shutoff Device (AKA: Fuel Shutoff Solenoid/FSS) stops fuel delivery to the Head/Rotor (H/R) by way of the rubber-tipped plunger interrupting the case pressure fuel supply feeding directly to the H/R.





- The Mechanical Shutoff Device is comprised of the external lever (No 1) being connected to an internal lever (No 5). When applied, that internal lever works the throttle/governor linkage assembly and has the control-collar (No 3) uncover the cutoff port (No 7) of the distributor plunger. With that, no fuel is delivered to the injectors.





As an FYI: Our typical "Runaway" (or more accurately: Ineffective Fuel Control) issue is a result of the throttle/governor assembly being adjusted such that the fuel control collar can't uncover the cutoff port enough to have the engine RPM come down. It may actually be partially open, but there's still enough fuel being delivered to the injectors that the engine continues to increase speed.
More often than not, the Mechanical Shutoff will shutdown the engine. But, if you've got things WAY off such as after a botched throttle-indexing/main fuel-screw setting for example, the mechanical shutoff won't be able to uncover the cutoff port enough, if at all.


As many times as I've messed with my IP, I've had MANY instances where, after hitting the starter, the engine came alive and clearly acted like it was headed for the moon. I instantly switched the ignition off while pulling on the mechanical shutoff cable. The engine's stopped every time.




Still, keep a board to cover the turbo handy when appropriate.

[Luther Grimace]

How does the manual lever shut it off if the fuel port by the electric solenoid is open?