a518 atf+4 or other?

[IrishChamp]

Next question: I just pulled the pan, fluid is clear red, doesn't smell burnt.
However, the magnet is piled pretty thick and it looks like there is a little bit of aluminum maybe next to it, it's metalic but not stuck to the magnet.
This is my first fluid change after the trans rebuild which took place Feb 2011 at 100,000 miles, I'm now at 115,000.
Is this normal, bad?

[PToombs]

#1, I'd use the rubber gasket.
#2, that looks like a lot of excess metal to me. The magnet may be a little fuzzier than I would expect after a rebuild, but that pile next to it doesn't look good.

Hopefully someone else will chime in too.....Ellis?

[ellis93]

Looks fishy to me. I think there is(or was) a clearance issue with a thrust washer or its from the converter. Either way I'd keep on keeping on with what your doing. It can only help.

On your gasket,take a ball peen hammer(use the round side) and bump the bolt holes of the pan toward the outside of the pan when using the rubber gaskets. You'll want to do this as it lets the flang bite harder between the bolts,plus the holes usually belly in anyhow.
Glue that gasket to the pan as well,that'll keep the gasket from mashing out to far and help retain it while you install the pan.


Or go buy a reusable gasket from the stealer ship.

[ellis93]

That stuff on the magnet is typical,don't sweat it.

[IrishChamp]

Is this something I should have looked at? I assume sense its been 15,000 miles sense the rebuild (too long for a first fluid change I'm sure) the clearance issue has "rectified" itself, or rather, the damage is done and the clearance issue is gone?
My 2-3 shift has been very hard at part throttle sense the rebuild. The way I understood this is because of a smaller clearance on those clutch packs, that if there was maybe one less friction there it would engage softer. could this be the culprit area? I don't know what a thrust washer is and I've never opened up a transmission, my knowledge is very limited
what would you glue the gasket in with RTV sealant, super glue?

thanks

Looks fishy to me. I think there is(or was) a clearance issue with a thrust washer or its from the converter. Either way I'd keep on keeping on with what your doing. It can only help.

On your gasket,take a ball peen hammer(use the round side) and bump the bolt holes of the pan toward the outside of the pan when using the rubber gaskets. You'll want to do this as it lets the flang bite harder between the bolts,plus the holes usually belly in anyhow.
Glue that gasket to the pan as well,that'll keep the gasket from mashing out to far and help retain it while you install the pan.


Or go buy a reusable gasket from the stealer ship.

[IrishChamp]

edit, didn't realize this was also from you ellis93, sorry

That stuff on the magnet is typical,don't sweat it.

[IrishChamp]

Should I be doing a complete flush or anything like that? if so, can this be done at home?

PToombs, thanks for you input as well!

[oldestof11]

My 230k mile trans didn't have that much brass! And my fluid was a dark murky red.

[Sutter1stgen]

My first pan drop was almost that bad after the rebuild. I went 500 miles all looked well, then I went 25k miles and all went to $**t.
I was freaked out as you are but I wrote it off with my converter possibly having some debris still in it, and the fact that I had a bad 2-3 shift overlap with my tight tolerances in the direct pack. A second servo return spring doubled up with the factory cured my overlap. My last two times I've had the pan off all looks well.

This is another reason I'm hesitant to install a remote bypass filter. If everything was collected and the pan was clean on the bottom, you would not be alerted to the Trans possibly self destructing.

Cool glasses by the way.

[IrishChamp]

Can you explain shift overlap, if you're saying that I have overlap I'm not seeing my 2-3 shift as something reminiscent of that but I don't really know what overlap actually means. I'm supposed to take my truck on a 600 mile road trip with my wife and son this weekend, is the spring an easy install?
when you say all went to s***t do do you mean your transmission died or just lots of debris like my picture? if your trans is still going strong mind me asking how many miles sense the rebuild and sense the extra spring install?
thanks
PS. can you really see my glasses in the reflection in the photo? maybe I need new glasses, I can't really see much

My first pan drop was almost that bad after the rebuild. I went 500 miles all looked well, then I went 25k miles and all went to $**t.
I was freaked out as you are but I wrote it off with my converter possibly having some debris still in it, and the fact that I had a bad 2-3 shift overlap with my tight tolerances in the direct pack. A second servo return spring doubled up with the factory cured my overlap. My last two times I've had the pan off all looks well.

This is another reason I'm hesitant to install a remote bypass filter. If everything was collected and the pan was clean on the bottom, you would not be alerted to the Trans possibly self destructing.

Cool glasses by the way.

[IrishChamp]

It doesn't look like brass, I'll have to take a closer look at it.

My 230k mile trans didn't have that much brass! And my fluid was a dark murky red.

[ellis93]

Is this something I should have looked at? I assume sense its been 15,000 miles sense the rebuild (too long for a first fluid change I'm sure) the clearance issue has "rectified" itself, or rather, the damage is done and the clearance issue is gone?
My 2-3 shift has been very hard at part throttle sense the rebuild. The way I understood this is because of a smaller clearance on those clutch packs, that if there was maybe one less friction there it would engage softer. could this be the culprit area? I don't know what a thrust washer is and I've never opened up a transmission, my knowledge is very limited
what would you glue the gasket in with RTV sealant, super glue?

thanks

Looks fishy to me. I think there is(or was) a clearance issue with a thrust washer or its from the converter. Either way I'd keep on keeping on with what your doing. It can only help.

On your gasket,take a ball peen hammer(use the round side) and bump the bolt holes of the pan toward the outside of the pan when using the rubber gaskets. You'll want to do this as it lets the flang bite harder between the bolts,plus the holes usually belly in anyhow.
Glue that gasket to the pan as well,that'll keep the gasket from mashing out to far and help retain it while you install the pan.


Or go buy a reusable gasket from the stealer ship.

Silicone is used on motors and doesn't belo anywhere near a trans
3m makes some stuff called weatherstripping adhesive,comes in yellow or black,that's what I use. Any parts store has it.

[DodgeFreak]

Ive used the mopar grey silicone for pan gaskets since thats what mopar told us to use on my sisters breeze.

[IrishChamp]

Should I just change my fluid and be done with it?
what about what Sutter suggested, adding a 2nd servo return spring?
Should I be making any changes to the shift kit, I have a TFOD Diesel shift kit installed. I do plan on doing a band adjustment. I'd just like to put my pan back on with my transmission in the best shape possible.

Silicone is used on motors and doesn't belo anywhere near a trans
3m makes some stuff called weatherstripping adhesive,comes in yellow or black,that's what I use. Any parts store has it.

[ellis93]

Ive used the mopar grey silicone for pan gaskets since thats what mopar told us to use on my sisters breeze.

Toyota has some redish pink silicone they use on their trans pans too.
The problem with that is.....people. Someone tells them to use it and that mash out a whole tube,where a bead would work. Then what's used (red,blue or black) swells up and clogs the filter or somehow ends up in the vb. last thing I want is to steer someone to self destruction.
That ultra grey silicone is some tough stuff,no doubt.