Just a little more . . . . .

[BC847]

Oh!

. . . . Then turn the fuel up.

[BC847]

Gentlemen, I can't express how relieved I'm feeling right now. Overall things appear to initially fit better than I expected.





Looking a little closer at areas I was worried about . . . .

- The top primary is just behind the HVAC Filter/Drier by a good inch plus (won't have to move it). Further, it looks like I've got more room for the top primary's inlet plumbing than I thought I would. (The inlet elbow won't be all up in the air filter-housing).





- The top primary easily clears the inner fender-well by over an inch and a half (+/-).





- The bottom primary easily clears the truck' frame-rail while its inlet clears the alternator.





- As things initially sit, the top primary's down-pipe just kisses the HVAC blower's motor.





- I believe I can fix that by swinging the main 5" down-pipe away from the transmission bell-housing (modify), then swing the entire mass back toward the engine thus getting the top primary down-pipe off the heater HVAC motor. Frankly, I'm floored the thing fell damn-near Spot-On where I wanted it to.





- The overall package appears as though it will clear the hood.





I will say that, assembling the mass in place was a pain in the ass. With all the hot and cold plumbing rigidly attached with V-Band clamps, proper alignment of everything is critical. Supporting the mass while leaning over the fender, twisting/tweaking this and that, to get each section to come together was trying. At best.


Still, I'm kinda proud of myself.

- Pressure-wash the engine and bay, including underside as it sits so I don't draw back as much black goo on my knuckles.
- Remove stock/OEM oil filter/cooler cover and with a couple of bolts, replace with the marine cooler cover.
- Using few bolts, install the new assembly, less gaskets.
- Be tickled chitless because my earlier ciphering was spot-on regarding the overall fit. (Fingers crossed).
- After getting the general positioning of the assembly right, complete the fabrication of the front assembly mount (to the new oil cooler cover).
- Be pleasantly surprised that I won't have to tweak the passenger's inner fender well. (Fingers crossed).
- Cipher and complete fabrication of 5" down-pipe past the transfer-case including proper mount at transmission bell-housing. (This will take a couple of evenings, or so).
- Cipher and order parts to make hoses and, locate and fabricate remote engine lube-oil filter-head mount.

. . . .. etc . . . .

[dazedandconfused]

Hell yeah that looks awesome.

[PToombs]

That looks just mean! An inch is going to be close when the engine torques under load. Mine is 1/2 to 3/4 from it and I can see the mark in the paint where the big turbo hits the fender. I'm not sure how old my motor mounts are either, I can't remember if I changed them or if they are original.

[BC847]

Thanks for the kind words.

I've been running the poly engine mounts for a while.

It's been my experience the engine tilts toward the driver's side / truck twists to the right (as seen from driver's seat) when loading/launching.

[BC847]

Didn't do much today other than shove this mess in there to stare at .. .




- Can't turn the bottom primary 90* up anymore for being on the alternator now.
- If the 90*'s generally stay as seen, I'll have to route the secondary outlet to IC line over the mess.

All things considered, I may have to dimple/flat-spot/crush/something that top down-pipe where it contacts the heater motor. (Alternator/primary, top primary/fender-liner, top down-pipe/heater motor, 5" down-pipe/resilient mount/trans bellhousing, etc. ).

[PToombs]

Now that you reminded me, I do remember you having the poly mounts. Maybe mine hits when I let off and the engine settles back, I'm not sure which way it goes under load, it must be the same as yours.
Do you need a 5" pipe? I thought I read someplace that you didn't really need a 5" pipe until you were up over 500hp?I have a 5 to 4" adapter right after the big turbo, it made it easier to route it down and out the back.

[BC847]

Using the formula: A = πr \2 (for example: http://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculato ... circle.php) we find:

The area of the 3" outlet of the primary is 7.07sq/in. There are two primary outlets being combined into one pipe for a total of 14.14sq/in.

If I went with a 4" main down-pipe I'd have 12.57sq/in available.

Obviously that's a reduction in area.

5" pipe has an area of 19.63sq/in.

A bit much for my needs but they apparently don't make 4.25" pipe (14.14sq/in).

(The 10T press, anvil, maul, blue-wrench, TIG, band-saw, have formed a gang and are making threats in the shop to the effect they can do anything they want. Been harassing the 5" pipe stock telling it it doesn't look so tough).

The truck currently has 5" plumbing starting immediately after the transfer-case. I've found a source of oval pipe (think NASCAR exhaust) if need be. But thinking about that, there's actually only perhaps one place that a less than round pipe would be needed to pass.
- Having said that, there's apparently a reduction of area in a round pipe with simply crushing into an oval (for example). There's a formula for that too: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/equiv ... d_205.html

Without actually getting into that math, I figure I'll still have extra with a little reshaping here and there.

We'll see, huh?

[oldestof11]

Are you sure it is on DECEL the turbos hit the fender and not ACCEL?

The engines spin counter-clockwise when looking from the rear or drivers seat. So when under power or acceleration, it wants to move the frame in a clockwise direction. This pulls the drivers rail up and moves the engine closer to the passenger fender.

[BC847]

Are you sure it is on DECEL the turbos hit the fender and not ACCEL?

The engines spin counter-clockwise when looking from the rear or drivers seat. So when under power or acceleration, it wants to move the frame in a clockwise direction. This pulls the drivers rail up and moves the engine closer to the passenger fender.

It's my thinking that, while accelerating, the engine is (by way of torque) is twisting the truck clockwise, while in doing so, the engine itself is twisting counterclockwise. The head of the engine is pulled to the driver's fender, and the driver's fender toward the head.

- For every action, there's a equal and opposite reaction.

I think that's right.

[spencerdiesel]

This is absolutely phenomenal.

[BC847]

This is absolutely phenomenal.

I hope it turns out to be a good phenomenon.

I went back and looked again at the clearance between the top primary and the fender and it's actually going over an inch and a half.

[Richie O]

Are you sure it is on DECEL the turbos hit the fender and not ACCEL?

The engines spin counter-clockwise when looking from the rear or drivers seat. So when under power or acceleration, it wants to move the frame in a clockwise direction. This pulls the drivers rail up and moves the engine closer to the passenger fender.

It's my thinking that, while accelerating, the engine is (by way of torque) is twisting the truck clockwise, while in doing so, the engine itself is twisting counterclockwise. The head of the engine is pulled to the driver's fender, and the driver's fender toward the head.

- For every action, there's a equal and opposite reaction.

I think that's right.

I always had the opposite. I remember a buddy breaking his motor mounts and the motor would rise up on the drivers side and smash the passenger inner fender.

[BC847]

I may very well be quite wrong. I may be right in my thinking, but in fact the forces are applied further downstream of the truck and does exactly opposite of what I'm thinking.

FWIW, my Son gave me a tip in that, it's a regular thing for the low-riders and those into tucking the engine bay plumbing/wiring, etc. . . . ..
-> Use the bottom of a cheap wheel-barrow and cut out a section, to replace that you cut out of a fender-well, Installed inversely, or what ever needed.

[fatty]

I've seen sled pullers lift the right front tire more than once, which would indicate the engine going down on the passenger side and the frame coming up.