Just a little more . . . . .

[fatty]

Well now I'm starting to wonder if it's the driver side tire I'm thinking of.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItydMAzeFPE

As seen in this video, the driver side tire goes higher.

[oldestof11]

Are you sure it is on DECEL the turbos hit the fender and not ACCEL?

The engines spin counter-clockwise when looking from the rear or drivers seat. So when under power or acceleration, it wants to move the frame in a clockwise direction. This pulls the drivers rail up and moves the engine closer to the passenger fender.

It's my thinking that, while accelerating, the engine is (by way of torque) is twisting the truck clockwise, while in doing so, the engine itself is twisting counterclockwise. The head of the engine is pulled to the driver's fender, and the driver's fender toward the head.

- For every action, there's a equal and opposite reaction.

I think that's right.

Crank is rotating counterclockwise. The block will see to it to spin clockwise. This pulls up the drivers side rail.

Allow me to post my favorite video showcasing this phenomenon.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Jxv2hOlFav4

[PToombs]

I'm assuming that's BC's truck on the left?
I was thinking like that video shows, the engine pulls up on the drivers side. This is probably irrelevant, since Dave has an inch and a half, it should miss by plenty.

As for the pipe size, can't argue with math! I just remember when I was young the contractor I worked for told me that an 6 inch pipe will flow more than 2 -3 inch pipes. Maybe that's true with fluid due to resistance in the pipe, I don't know, I never checked into it. It was before the internet was invented, so I assumed it was true and had no way to dispute it.

[BC847]

I'm hoping it'll all work out.



So I rotated the entire mass, up . . .





. . . . So as to remove the down-pipe assembly. I think it'll all work out best if I just dimple/flat-spot where the heater motor kisses it. In a perfect world, I can incorporate a heat-shield. (In a perfect world, The top primary would be positioned about an inch and a half closer to the engine's head. That would fix the pipe clearance issue).





Anyhoo, temporarily removing the down-pipe assembly allows me to locate the mass to where I had planned for it to be. As such, I've got room at the bottom primary to rotate it's intake 90, to look dead into the top primary's intake. I plan on Wye'ing/Tee'ing into the 45/90 coming from the soup-pot.





Got plenty of room between the top primary and the fender-well.





I'm glad I went ahead and got that marine engine oil cooler cover. As expected, there's no room for the OEM engine oil filter.

[ellis93]

Bc,would you happen to have a link to where you bought the filter relocation thing? I'm wanting one for the dodge to add an external cooler.

[BC847]

Bc,would you happen to have a link to where you bought the filter relocation thing? I'm wanting one for the dodge to add an external cooler.

I bought it from Pathfinder International through Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP ... UTF8&psc=1

Note: This cover appears much more expensive as compared to others for the same part BUT, this one includes those pesky little details, like:
1 - Plunger 3918428(3914084)
1 - Spring 3918427(3903261)
1 - Plug 3284164(3915787)
1 - O ring 3909397

. . . . parts for the associated oil pressure regulator.

Hope this helps.

[PToombs]

So I rotated the entire mass, up . . .

Shoot, cut a hole in the hood, install 2 air filters, and run it! Bad ass and easy!

[ellis93]

Bc,would you happen to have a link to where you bought the filter relocation thing? I'm wanting one for the dodge to add an external cooler.

I bought it from Pathfinder International through Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP ... UTF8&psc=1

Note: This cover appears much more expensive as compared to others for the same part BUT, this one includes those pesky little details, like:
1 - Plunger 3918428(3914084)
1 - Spring 3918427(3903261)
1 - Plug 3284164(3915787)
1 - O ring 3909397

. . . . parts for the associated oil pressure regulator.

Hope this helps.

Thank you

[Rob_O]

So I rotated the entire mass, up . . .

Shoot, cut a hole in the hood, install 2 air filters, and run it! Bad ass and easy!

Solves the downpipe problem too, just run two stacks straight up. Angle them coming off the turbos so they go up together like a double barrel shotgun

[PToombs]

[93flatbed]

http://polybushings.com/pages/moparmounts.html

That ^will take care of your engine twist issues, promise I've put mine threw absolute hell and they enjoy it.

3.5" cold pipes work out well for the "cold side". As for down pipe/pipes I can't help I'm going hood.

[BC847]

http://polybushings.com/pages/moparmounts.html

That ^will take care of your engine twist issues, promise I've put mine threw absolute hell and they enjoy it.

Been there, done that.

Work and weather's been slowing me. Screw it, went to the beach this weekend. It was nice and quiet. 68 ~ 72* and sunny both Saturday and today.

Got back in time to mess with the down-pipe. I'm embarrassed to say that I flat-spotted that one offending curve, right there at the heater motor. I'll remove a bit of the HVAC box's noise-blanket and replace it with a sheet-metal heat-shield. With that, I can better locate the mass overall.

Now, standing back and staring at it . . .
- The stock/OEM down-pipe has a resilient-mount at the transmission's bell-housing. Such goes a long way in preventing cracks at the DP/Turbo flange. The new 5" DP is too big to allow using that same bell-housing bolt, and have enough metal between the pipe and rubber mount. It'll cook the rubber. I can however use the next bolt down on the bell-housing, and reach up to the DP. Plenty of room for that.
- The forward turbo assembly support bracket looks like it'll work as planned. I've still gotta make the bracket that attaches to the engine lube-oil cooler cover-plate. The thing is, once all the parts are made, I'm not sure how I'm gonna make the "final" connection of the installed assembly. There's no apparent direct path to the bolts.
- The engine lube-oil lines coming off the cooler cover-plate are gonna be very tight. Gonna have to come off with 90* fittings to start, then go . . . . . . somewhere.
- The turbo lube-oil drains ought to be straight forward.


. . . . . still moving forward.

[dazedandconfused]

How's the progress going?

[BC847]

Well (considering real life and weather), . . . .

A while back now, I made this bracket to mechanically tie the two primaries together.





I also made this bracket, intending to connect it to a bracket coming off the engine.





OK, fine.

Fast forward to now, I've got the turbo-mass where I want it. With that, I'm able to better visualize the needed bracket. I ended-up just making a one-piece bracket . . . .





Attach the bracket to the lower primary compressor-housing and, swinging the turbo-mass down and into position, has the bracket come to rest as planned on the engine oil-cooler cover-plate and fastens with three bolts.
(Dead-center of the pic is the engine oil-pressure-regulator assembly. At 11:00 is the block-heater), . . . .




Looking from under the truck, under the main down-pipe forward, you can see two of the three bolts attaching the bracket to the compressor-housing.
(Again, at the top-left is the block-heater. To the bottom-left is the passenger's engine mount. That pipe to the bottom-right is the HVAC compressor's suction line. It's gonna have to move.





With that, the turbo-mass is solidly located to the engine. I've well over 1.5" between the bottom of the top primary housings and fender-well, and the bottom primary intake boot fits as it should.
The pinch is now at the main down-pipe. I'm gonna have to bring it down about an inch (minimum) toward 4:30 to clear the floor of the cab (where it's kissing now), and the trans bell-housing.






That's when I noticed water running across the floor, in front of the clothes washing machine . . . . . . . .

[BC847]

The water's been leaking a while apparently. Had to replace both hot and cold water feed valves and lines for the clothes washer.

I'm on well water. My well water is especially "Soft" meaning it has very little dissolved solids chemically speaking. That makes it very corrosive. As such, with time, it wants to leach various elements from that which it contacts. That's a fancy way of saying it eats sthi. Specifically, the metal of my existing domestic plumbing fixtures.

A couple of new valves as well as new clothes washer connection hoses, and all is back to normal.

Except for the well soaked wood of the interior of the wall and surrounding floor.

Crap.