I dont have full travel

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I dont have full travel

Postby Redneckintraining » Sat Feb 21, 2009 7:03 pm

I just replaced my throttle cable with a new one because it was held to the pedal with a pair of vice grips.So I install it and I go to adjust it.The plastic endcaps on the connecting rod from the kickdown braket to the IP broke.So I replaced that with the new superceded model that has metal endcaps.Now I have a problem the adjusting/connecting rod is adjusted so it is short as possible but I still do not have full travel.Before, a spring loaded lever would touch the fuel line as a stop.Now I have about 1/2" of space before it hits.After driving the truck I would say it has 3/8 of travel maybe more.What do I need to do to adjust it so I have full travel?Although now the pedal is silky smooth and relativly effortless,before it would bind up really badly. I might just take it to a shop to have them adjust it unless I can figure out how its supposed to be.
truck is an 89 W250 with the CTD and the 727.
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Postby Richie O » Sat Feb 21, 2009 7:11 pm

Try moving the linkage like in this pic I STOLE from somewhere.

Image
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby Redneckintraining » Sat Feb 21, 2009 7:25 pm

Do I need the return spring?
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Postby Richie O » Sat Feb 21, 2009 7:28 pm

Redneckintraining wrote:Do I need the return spring?


If you don't have one now then I guess not. My truck has one. One other thing is I had to adjust the TV cable that goes to the tranny. It changes the range of travel where the tv cable mounts.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby PToombs » Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:21 pm

WOW! Look at that fuel inlet line! Mine comes along the back of the IP and makes a 90* bend straight to the inlet. That one makes a heck of a shortcut over the lever.
I had to adjust my fuel inlet line because the lever was hitting. (thanks Tim! ;) ) Then I realised that I still lacked about 1/4" from the stop. I had to add a couple washers to the cable at the pedal to get full travel.
I'm going to change my lever hole too, since I've seen posts on this.
pete

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Postby Richie O » Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:29 pm

PToombs wrote:WOW! Look at that fuel inlet line! Mine comes along the back of the IP and makes a 90* bend straight to the inlet. That one makes a heck of a shortcut over the lever.
I had to adjust my fuel inlet line because the lever was hitting. (thanks Tim! ;) ) Then I realised that I still lacked about 1/4" from the stop. I had to add a couple washers to the cable at the pedal to get full travel.
I'm going to change my lever hole too, since I've seen posts on this.


I noticed my 93 is alot different then my 89. On my 89 the lever now will almost hit the fuel line.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby sdstriper » Sun Feb 22, 2009 2:09 am

My 89' has the fuel line like that too. PITA needed a tweak for travel and to get the pump closer to the head...
1989 D250, 727, 3.07, BHAF, 4" exhaust, Usual Suspect Gauges, tuned VE, OSPP
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Postby Redneckintraining » Sun Feb 22, 2009 9:21 am

yep mine also makes a 90* bend to the pump.
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Postby Redneckintraining » Sun Feb 22, 2009 11:52 am

So I moved the location of the pin.Now I can get to about 65 max,it just takes forever to get there.Seems really slow and goes 65 max.

How the heck can I adjust this stupid thing so I have full travel and full acceleration?Also how do I adjust the kickdown linkage for the transmission.right now it wants to shift like this shifts into second at 15 MPH and shifts into 3rd at 25.Which really sucks.it may be why its so slow...But even manually shifting it is still a dog.
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Postby randyswelding » Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:12 pm

is there a way to reindext the pedal or are adding washers the only way and whats the best way puting them on notch them and then retack them together?
'92 D350 cab and chassy,pump turned up with 1/8 timin,coaltriann 6x16 sticks,htt manifold,asa intake cooler tubez,south bend 13" clutch rebuilt G360,ps cooler,industrial super 62 phat shaft turbo,weldin bed.
12 Chevy 3500ltz lifted, deleted, and bed with sae 300 ss hood for new rig
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Postby Redneckintraining » Sun Feb 22, 2009 10:58 pm

I ended up putting the linkage in the stock hole and using spacers to space the pedal further from the floor.I still dont like it.Why should a cable I got from the dodge dealer need spacers and shims to work right?
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Postby PToombs » Mon Feb 23, 2009 4:40 pm

I went thru a whole crapload of stuff to get mine to work. I cut the sleeve off the cable (both sleeves, inner and outer) between the bracket and the lever, readjusted the balljoints, tried to adjust the pedal, moved the mat out of the way and I still didn't get full travel.
I used a hacksaw and cut a slot in a couple flat washers, then slid them over the cable between the pedal and the cable end. Then I squeezed them with channel locks to close the gap.
I haven't had any problems yet, but I haven't put tons of miles on, maybe a couple thousand.
pete

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Postby randyswelding » Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:39 pm

I took the pedal off and bent it I got to take it off again and heat the lower part at the pedal and straighten it a lil more its angled up but I do have full travel now,I also trimed the stop at the cam lookin thing where the cable and linkage come together and that helped alot
'92 D350 cab and chassy,pump turned up with 1/8 timin,coaltriann 6x16 sticks,htt manifold,asa intake cooler tubez,south bend 13" clutch rebuilt G360,ps cooler,industrial super 62 phat shaft turbo,weldin bed.
12 Chevy 3500ltz lifted, deleted, and bed with sae 300 ss hood for new rig
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Postby sdstriper » Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:41 pm

I wouldn't bend or heat anything etc. Get some washers and space the pedal out from the firewall a 1/2 inch or so.
1989 D250, 727, 3.07, BHAF, 4" exhaust, Usual Suspect Gauges, tuned VE, OSPP
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Postby peobryant » Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:51 pm

sdstriper wrote:I wouldn't bend or heat anything etc. Get some washers and space the pedal out from the firewall a 1/2 inch or so.


I'd say it's a little to late for him to do that now. :lol:
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