3200rpm spring problems

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3200rpm spring problems

Postby 12vburnout » Sun May 24, 2009 5:08 pm

Hey guys
Just put in a 3200rpm governor spring, but now the truck wont start. I've bled the injector lines and also the fuel return line to the pump. I thought it might be that my fuel screew was to far out/in so I adjusted it either way to no avail. At first it seemed like it wanted to start but just wasn't getting any fuel, but now it just turns over, no smoke no nothing. I also double checked the diaphram to make sure it was pointed the same way as when i took it out and it is. Any suggestions, or should I just pull the pump apart and start over?

1990 D250 727 auto, 3.5" Flowmaster exhaust downpipe back, custom BHAF, 370,000km.
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Postby PToombs » Sun May 24, 2009 6:01 pm

Did you try to start it with your foot on the pedal? Sounds like your indexing is off on the throttle shaft. Common problem.
The other thing is there might still be air in the system.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby 12vburnout » Sun May 24, 2009 7:02 pm

I have tried with my foot on the pedal and as far as I can tell the throttle setting are all the same as before according to the pictures I took during disassembly. Should I try bleeding the system some more?
"Brown Bullet" 1990 D250 727 auto, 3.5" Flowmaster exhaust downpipe back, custom BHAF, BD Diesel IP, 275/60/17 on 17x 9.5 Panther wheels, 370,000km.
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Postby SOOT4BRAINS » Sun May 24, 2009 11:06 pm

I had similar problem, mine would start, but would die as soon as I touched the throttle. I am pretty sure i had it indexed way off. Took it apart and put it back together and it worked. Yours may be far enough off that it won't quite run at all. I would re-index and try it again. It is too easy to get it indexed wrong. Also, since you have no fire at all, maybe one end of the spring came loose and the throttle spring isn't telling it to fuel at all. Not sure if that can happen, just a thought... Good luck!

Aaron
93 D250 Rag 3.54, 4 inch stans downpipe to custom 4 in exhaust, pump cranked with m3 pin, 366 spring, tach,boost,pyro,fuel pressure, ddp 70lpm sticks, 62/65/12 s300, airdog 150, rebuilt getrag, 3250 SBC clutch, helix 2 camshaft, dual redtops, new paint.
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Postby PToombs » Mon May 25, 2009 5:15 am

Also double check that the lever on the throttle shaft is towards the head. Sometimes they get turned around.
pete

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Postby 12vburnout » Tue May 26, 2009 8:32 pm

Turns out that the little lever that the fuel screw adjusts inside the pump broke completely off. So a new pump from BD is on the way and the 3200 spring was a very expensive failed experiment.
"Brown Bullet" 1990 D250 727 auto, 3.5" Flowmaster exhaust downpipe back, custom BHAF, BD Diesel IP, 275/60/17 on 17x 9.5 Panther wheels, 370,000km.
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Postby 12vburnout » Tue May 26, 2009 8:44 pm

Anyone know how many hours at a shop to replace the pump?
"Brown Bullet" 1990 D250 727 auto, 3.5" Flowmaster exhaust downpipe back, custom BHAF, BD Diesel IP, 275/60/17 on 17x 9.5 Panther wheels, 370,000km.
12vburnout
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Postby SOOT4BRAINS » Tue May 26, 2009 9:53 pm

I would think around 2-3 hours maybe???? If I just went at it like I was making money, I think I could have it done in 3 hours pretty easily. Sorry to hear your pump broke.
93 D250 Rag 3.54, 4 inch stans downpipe to custom 4 in exhaust, pump cranked with m3 pin, 366 spring, tach,boost,pyro,fuel pressure, ddp 70lpm sticks, 62/65/12 s300, airdog 150, rebuilt getrag, 3250 SBC clutch, helix 2 camshaft, dual redtops, new paint.
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Postby IowaCummins » Wed May 27, 2009 10:16 am

ahh man that sounds liek it wasnt fun at all. i just did my 366 spring and im so happ that all went good. well your truck will get better milage now since ya got a new pump. let us know how that pump is
1993 Dodge W250 Reg cab. Auto, .010" headgasket, A1 Studs. Just the Lil Ole VE pump Fuelin 7x.014's turnin the Aurora 3000 turbo. 5" Turbo back to Duals. :cbadge:
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Postby PToombs » Wed May 27, 2009 4:57 pm

12v, did you back the fuel screw out before you put the top back on?
pete

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Postby dpuckett » Wed May 27, 2009 6:04 pm

12vburnout wrote:Anyone know how many hours at a shop to replace the pump?

I think the book my fiancee's shop uses says like 2.5hrs to R&R the pump. It could be for just removal, though. In actuality, we R&R'd a pump on Mom's truck (leaking gasket) when we first started dating, in WELL under an hour- I want to say 45min. We were motivated by 40deg, 25-30mph wind, spitting rain/snow mix, etc.

I plan on an hour to remove, and another hour to reinstall, and take my time to get it all right, timed, cleaned up, looking and running well. Any professional who takes longer is not real ambitious.

Daniel
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Postby 12vburnout » Wed May 27, 2009 11:18 pm

Thanks for the replys guys... i will let you know how the new pump is when it arrives.

Pete, I did back the screw out a bit and also did the little wire trick to pull the lever back
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Postby PToombs » Thu May 28, 2009 6:04 pm

DP, R&R is remove and replace. A couple hours is about right to pull and install it.

12v, I tried the wire thing once. It sucked! It's much easier to back the screw out so it's flush with the inside of the housing, then screw it back in. JMO! ;)
pete

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Postby 12vburnout » Thu May 28, 2009 11:25 pm

Needless to say, the spring will not make its way into my new pump. I can't afford to buy yet another pump!!!
"Brown Bullet" 1990 D250 727 auto, 3.5" Flowmaster exhaust downpipe back, custom BHAF, BD Diesel IP, 275/60/17 on 17x 9.5 Panther wheels, 370,000km.
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Postby PToombs » Sat May 30, 2009 5:20 pm

It's not the springs problem. When you get the new pump, put the spring in while the pump is on the bench. (or in a vice) Much easier to look around and under stuff when you put it together. ;)
pete

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