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Weld it or not..? rear end...

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Weld it or not..? rear end...

Postby bgilbert » Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:55 pm

This will be for my 74 W300 with a D70 front with lockouts and D70 rear. Very little street driving, pretty much 3 blocks to and from work during the winter. Then will be a play/pulling truck in the summer. What's the best way to weld up the rear end/spider gears etc? Both 70's are open, 4.88 geared, and are a 2 piece open case. Will be a 360 truck for now. Then maybe a big block, but sticking to gas :roll: :lol: . Thoughts?
Bill Gilbert
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93 D350 single cab Getrag 3.54's.
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Postby 1STGENFARMBOY » Thu Nov 05, 2009 3:06 pm

HOLY COW BILL GAS :?
93 W250 STD CAB, AUTO 3.55, GAUGES, 80HP DDP STICKS, DENNY T ,16CM HOUSING, 60MM GILLETT, VE MAXED,BHAF, BHFF, 366 SPRING,P/S INTERCOOLER, TIMS COOLER TUBS, TIMMING 1/8 BUMP,4in TURBO BACK TO DUEL 5IN STACKS,33 12.50 BFG, HOLLEY BLACK, CONVERTER COOMING.
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Postby Richie O » Thu Nov 05, 2009 3:18 pm

It will be a pain driving in the snow. That being said there are lots of POOR MANS POSI'S around here. Most I have seen are off roaders. Eats the tires pretty quick on the road. Just make sure its welded good. When I was a kid I welded one up and the welds broke. I caught it in time and was able to remove the busted stuff and put new spiders in.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby stock91w350 » Thu Nov 05, 2009 4:09 pm

Richie O wrote:It will be a pain driving in the snow. That being said there are lots of POOR MANS POSI'S around here. Most I have seen are off roaders. Eats the tires pretty quick on the road. Just make sure its welded good. When I was a kid I welded one up and the welds broke. I caught it in time and was able to remove the busted stuff and put new spiders in.
why will it be a pain in the snow? whats the best set up for slippery roads and deep snow? i have 4.10's and dual wheels only one side spins, im planning on plowing with this truck.
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Postby stock91w350 » Thu Nov 05, 2009 4:10 pm

stock91d350 wrote:
Richie O wrote:It will be a pain driving in the snow. That being said there are lots of POOR MANS POSI'S around here. Most I have seen are off roaders. Eats the tires pretty quick on the road. Just make sure its welded good. When I was a kid I welded one up and the welds broke. I caught it in time and was able to remove the busted stuff and put new spiders in.
why will it be a pain in the snow? whats the best set up for slippery roads and deep snow? i have 4.10's and dual wheels only one side spins, im planning on plowing with this truck.
o yea and my tires are 235 75 16
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Postby RSWORDS » Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:11 pm

stock91d350 wrote:
Richie O wrote:It will be a pain driving in the snow. That being said there are lots of POOR MANS POSI'S around here. Most I have seen are off roaders. Eats the tires pretty quick on the road. Just make sure its welded good. When I was a kid I welded one up and the welds broke. I caught it in time and was able to remove the busted stuff and put new spiders in.
why will it be a pain in the snow? whats the best set up for slippery roads and deep snow? i have 4.10's and dual wheels only one side spins, im planning on plowing with this truck.


With both tires spinning you have zero traction keeping you on the road. When just one powering the other kinda just rolls along and provides some lateral (side to side) support. Seeing as how most roads are crowned, being higher in teh center and lower at the shoulder. When your tires spin the rear end tends to head to teh ditch.
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Postby Billy Boy » Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:25 pm

When you weld it up be sure to wash out the housing really, really, REALLY well. Use a can or two of brake kleen just to be sure. The slag will eat the rear end up over time if it is allowed to roll around inside.
1989 Dodge D350 Dually, Non I/C
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Postby pulltilbroke » Thu Nov 05, 2009 8:59 pm

I'm sure Bill will pull the carrier before welding. I think :shock:

I usually cut 2 pieces of rectangular 1/4 steel that will fit between the spiders and side gears and weld it up.

Before welding preheat the oven to 300* and heat the carrier, when done welding put it back in the oven shut it off and let it cool til mornin
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
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Postby Billy Boy » Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:45 am

I'm sure Bill will pull the carrier before welding. I think


Oh yeah, thats what I meant :grin: The other times I've done it/seen it done its been with short term uses (derby cars) so wear wasnt much a of a concern for us, but if he is going to be driving it for awhile it could be. Residual slag that isn't removed seems to be pretty important.
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Postby oklahoma6speed » Wed Dec 09, 2009 2:17 pm

i welded mine some time ago.. easy. and fun... aint had it in the snow yet.. well it aint snowed yet.. lol i am wishing the 4x4 will help me keep it on the road.. but just playing with mine tell pull season comes.. and then will see how long it last? i did drive it some wet conditions the other nite.. i was not thinking and gave a lil fuel going around a corner... well.. i was looking at a fence before i new it.. lol.. but.. i just put it in rev. and it backed rite out.. with it not welded.. i would had to get out and lock it in.. then back out... likeing mine so far
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