BRAKES...HELP!!!!

[ivel_86]

I NEED HELP!!! I am wanting to do th eABS delete tomorrow and have the parts to do it... now the problem is I have no idea what I am "bypassing"? I have searched everywere and everywere some more! (didnt get much work done today) I cant find a picture all I found was that its above the axel? ANy help would be awesome. Thank you all very much!

[IowaCummins]

Your bypassing the abs pump located above the rear axle. One line in one out to the rear axle. Just in terms connect those lines together. Then unplug the black box behind the glove box

[Ironforger]

Sorry to hijack, but

Why are we bypassing the abs? Is this a recommended mod? if so, why?

Thanks!

[ivel_86]

I am bypassing the ABS because it is crap and from reseaching it is much cheaper ($12) to bypass. and like $40 for the abs sensor, and more for the dump valve. I may be incorrect but I am not a fan of rear abs anyways!

[ivel_86]

Your bypassing the abs pump located above the rear axle. One line in one out to the rear axle. Just in terms connect those lines together. Then unplug the black box behind the glove box

Dumb question do you have a picture? I am a visual guy and I cant think of what your saying.. Thank you for the very quick responce

[PToombs]

Actually, it's not a "pump", it's a valve.
Start at the rear axle, see the rubber brake hose that goes to the frame? There is a small bracket where it changes to a steel line, about 6 inches forward of this is a valve with 2 brake lines and a wire going to it. Follow the brake line from the hose, it goes right to it. That's the critter, just inside the frame rail, can't miss it, unless it's already gone. If it is, the line from the hose will go directly behind the fuel tank.

Ironforger, there is a valve inside the unit that opens brake pressure to an accumulator. The valve sticks open and when you step on the brakes the fluid goes to the accumulator instead of the cylinders, giving a spongy feel and poor stopping power. Removing the ABS valve is the best mod a lot of us have done.

[ivel_86]

Actually, it's not a "pump", it's a valve.
Start at the rear axle, see the rubber brake hose that goes to the frame? There is a small bracket where it changes to a steel line, about 6 inches forward of this is a valve with 2 brake lines and a wire going to it. Follow the brake line from the hose, it goes right to it. That's the critter, just inside the frame rail, can't miss it, unless it's already gone. If it is, the line from the hose will go directly behind the fuel tank.

Ironforger, there is a valve inside the unit that opens brake pressure to an accumulator. The valve sticks open and when you step on the brakes the fluid goes to the accumulator instead of the cylinders, giving a spongy feel and poor stopping power. Removing the ABS valve is the best mod a lot of us have done.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!

[slow_90firebird]

Napa UP 570044 seems to be the proper replacement, right?

I believe mine is stuck because i have never had a hard brake pedal since i owned the truck. Even after bleeding numerous times.

My brake and ABS lights come on whenever i hold the pedal for more than a few seconds, but I believe that is caused by a vacuum leak.

One thing i have noticed is that even driving in the snow, its hard to lock the rear wheels you really gotta lay into the pedal. My 78 chevy used to lock them long before the fronts causing the rear end to slide out.

If deleting this valve causes the rear end to slide out in snowy or icy conditions I would rather replace the valve so that it functions like the factory intended it.

[Ironforger]

Ironforger, there is a valve inside the unit that opens brake pressure to an accumulator. The valve sticks open and when you step on the brakes the fluid goes to the accumulator instead of the cylinders, giving a spongy feel and poor stopping power. Removing the ABS valve is the best mod a lot of us have done.

Ahh, can't help wondering if mine is messed up. Not sure if my brakes were spongy, but there did seem to be way to much pedal travel before the brakes engage. Although adjusting the rear bakes seemed to help that. Regardless I am able to lock up my rear brakes, (so I guess my abs isnt working anyway??) had to panic stop once for some dumbass stopping for a green light & I flat scraped a new rear tire so badly that it made a huge cloud of smoke which luckily blew into the open drivers side window of the dumbass.

So, I'm tempted to remove the abs valve just to see if it improves my braking overal. If it improves braking I'll be just fine without abs, just like old school days before abs. I feel I can control wheel lockup myself. I think abs is mostly for girls or sissies who have no concept of inertia. Exactly what parts will I need to do this without cutting / flaring brake lines? Do you have to bend the 2 lines that go into the valve & connect them with a double female connector? However It looks like the 2 lines that go into the valve have 2 different size flarenuts?

Also, on my truck, that rubber brake hose that goes from the differential up to the bracket where it connects with a steel line - there is what looks like a wire or hose running parallel & clipped to it - goes up to the frame somewhere near that bracket mentioned above. - what is it? some kind of sensor?



Thanks!

[PToombs]

I've locked up my brakes once since I did the mod, several years ago. Search "ABS delete" and the 1st thread will have fitting numbers to connect the lines together. The wire clipped to the hose is the wire for the ABS sensor on top of the diff.

[slow_90firebird]

That is assuming that the brake lines are pretty mint, right? Mine are real rusty, i doubt the flare nuts would move without taking the lines with them. Hell, i had enough trouble getting the bleeder on that stupid valve to come open...

Are both the brake lines 3/16" ? If so you could cut them back farther and just run a straight shot using either compression fittings or flare unions...

[Richie O]

Are both the brake lines 3/16" ? If so you could cut them back farther and just run a straight shot using either compression fittings or flare unions...

You can't use compression unions. They will not hold and they are not legal.

[oldestof11]

I did a few things. When I replaced EVERYTHING in the rear (drums, shoes, hardware, cylinders) I also upgrade to the 3" 1 ton shoes (hence the need for new drums). I had to bypass the valve as the bleeding screw was broken (previous owner or the dealer trying to fix the brakes) and trying to disconnect the lines caused them to crumble. I replaced the whole line to the back and on the rear axle (hardest part was I didn't buy preformed. I wish I did...) Well, one thing led to another and I ended up replacing the master cylinder. After all that and new shoes on the front, it stopped like none other. My Crown Vic with 4 disk brakes didn't stop as well as this truck. In snow and in rain, the fronts locked up just before the rears. Never had any problems with sliding out.

3 things go to good braking. Good hardware, good tires, good brain. Have all 3 and no ABS is no problem.

[PToombs]

2 outta 3, you're doing pretty good Jon!

If you replace the brake line from the front, no adapters are needed. The line will screw right into the hose connection. That's what I did on mine.

[Ironforger]

If you replace the brake line from the front, no adapters are needed. The line will screw right into the hose connection. That's what I did on mine.

Toombs: did you use a pre-formed brake line? Or did you bend up your own?

I checked all of my flare nut fittings today, only a couple of them turn free. The rest are stuck to the steel line, which are pretty damn rusty overall. So, I'm going to do the right thing and replace all of my steel brake lines. There is a guy near me who makes replica brake lines bent up exactly to match your existing lines. Only thing is you gotta bring him all of the old ones. Looks to me like I gotta drop the fuel tank though to replace the front to rear line, as I can't get to the brake line clips which are bolted to the frame up behind the fuel tank.

So anyway toombs, when you replaced the brake line that goes from front all the way to the abs module in the back, instead of going to the abs module, did you just shorten the brake line and bend it up so it fits into the hose where it mounts to that bracket? (bracket bolted to the frame, rubber hose goes from the bracket to the axle where it splits off in a brass Y block to each respective wheel cylinder, Y block has the differential vent coming out of it). Also, did you drop the fuel tank?

Thanks!