What Turbo to up grade to?

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Postby Ace » Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:21 am

I run a 60mm hybrid upgrade w/full 4" exhaust, Powerstroke intercooler, ATS manifold, stock I/C injectors and my VE is NOT turned all the way up. Water meth is the only thing that keeps it around 1200 EGT under sustained load, hovering at 25psi boost. The 12cm exhaust housing isn't helping that, but I suspect that will be less than 50degrees overall difference under sustained pulling conditions, runnning in the powerband at 2000rpm. I need to re-install the 16 one of these days and make some notes on that. So I'm probably not even at 300hp and I think I need a bigger turbo. :shock:
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Postby Jer12377 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:33 am

Ace wrote:I run a 60mm hybrid upgrade w/full 4" exhaust, Powerstroke intercooler, ATS manifold, stock I/C injectors and my VE is NOT turned all the way up. Water meth is the only thing that keeps it around 1200 EGT under sustained load, hovering at 25psi boost. The 12cm exhaust housing isn't helping that, but I suspect that will be less than 50degrees overall difference under sustained pulling conditions, runnning in the powerband at 2000rpm. I need to re-install the 16 one of these days and make some notes on that. So I'm probably not even at 300hp and I think I need a bigger turbo. :shock:

The Powerstroke intercooler you are running, is that out of a 6.0? If so is it the plastic or the all metal one? If you had more boost wouldnt that help you run cooler? I read some where more boost =more air =cooler temps that and I also read these engines can handle 40lbs of boost with out ringing the head. If you ran at 30 or 35psi wouldnt that help? I top out at 20-22lbs and I thought if I could get to 30-35lbs that would help me, but again I am just learning so I might be wrong.
93 W350 5spd, ARP studs, Denny T pin, 3200 RPM spring, Boost, Pyro, fuel, and head temp gauges, Amsoil BHAF, PS intercooler, HE351CW turbo, custom 3" intake tubes, 4" home made exhaust, Re-built GETRAG, Dana 80 with an ARB air locker....
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Postby Ace » Fri Sep 04, 2009 9:03 am

It's an aftermarket TT model for a 7.3, all aluminum:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbum/1 ... CTD_98.jpg

Boost/cooling/EGT are related in non-mutually exclusive ways I don't completely understand except from my own experience, and it's not that simple. More boost does not necessarily mean better cooling unless it is accompanied by greater flow from a turbo capable of efficiently producing it. Regardless, it takes more fuel to make more boost, hence greater cooling requirement to check EGT. The trick is to make the amount of cool boost/flow along with proper timing necessary to cool the fuel you want to burn.

Or something to that effect. Somebody help me out here...
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Postby Richie O » Fri Sep 04, 2009 9:49 am

If you top out at 22 psi changing the turbo to a better one will not give you more boost til you add more fuel. I believe it was Philip that said he lost a couple of pounds when he upgraded to a better turbo and left every thing else the same. It does not mean he lost power switching, just that it is a better unit.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby Gunmetal » Sun Sep 06, 2009 2:40 am

You can get a used HX35W on ebay for 150-200 bucks, rebuild kit is 50 bucks. You can also get a manual boost controller for 20 buckslike this one to run more boost.
I will be posting some 1st gen 12v tech articles on 1stgen.org and at my articles site soon. 12Valve.com
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Postby ahale2772 » Tue Sep 08, 2009 2:27 pm

question : can some one please explain how a water-meth kit works ? ive heard tons about them but never really nailed down how they work...please and thanks
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Postby Jer12377 » Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:38 pm

OK, I have been doing some research. :grin: I'm not exactly sure what to do with what I have learned, but I thought Id share it and see what you all think. 8) First I read http://www.turbominivan.com/tech/turbo101.htm and http://www.turbominivan.com/tech/turbo201.htm . Then I read http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... _tech.html , http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ch101.html , http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ch102.html , and http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ch103.html. I think I need to get a real turbo map and reread these again S L O W L Y , but I think I might be headed in the right direction? My next reading will be http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/intercooler.html. I have only scanned threw it, it looks like its going to take some time to sort threw that one. I would have much rather read articles like these put out by Holset, but I couldn't find them. Its hard to decipher threw the gasser parts, but I think I have a much better under standing of what I am up against. Now I need some real to life numbers to put in those equations and where do I find them?


As far as the water/meth Id like to know my self. Sorry. Hopefully someone will let us know?
93 W350 5spd, ARP studs, Denny T pin, 3200 RPM spring, Boost, Pyro, fuel, and head temp gauges, Amsoil BHAF, PS intercooler, HE351CW turbo, custom 3" intake tubes, 4" home made exhaust, Re-built GETRAG, Dana 80 with an ARB air locker....
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Postby Ace » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:29 am

I gotta give you credit for all the research, I'm sure you know more about turbos than I do by now! But you may be over-thinking this a tad. You need a bigger turbo if you want to tow with it to cool more fuel. It needs to flow more air more efficiently. Exactly which one you choose is not that important as long as it does it that.

The Hi1Cs that came on these trucks stock are great little turbos, well matched to the stock tune - 160hp. Match the turbo size to the amount of fuel you want to burn for your hp goal. My choice for a low budget upgrade would be a used HE351. I'd get a new Super40 if I could easily afford it. Maybe you just need a 16cm housing for the 40 you already have?
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Postby fergavs » Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:55 am

I would run a 62mm comp with a 14cm exaust housing. This will give you good spooling (probably better then the big exaust housing you have now) and it will cool up to 450rwhp. On top of that I would add the powerstroke all aluminum intercooler. If you added a set of DDP 80hp sticks you would have a great towing setup that will keep things cool. Just be sure to be conservative on your pump settings. Then when your not towing and you want to go play just crank up the pump and leave rubber strips all over town. lol. Just my opinion but it will work very well based on my experience.
1990 Dodge D350 Duallie 2wd, Piers ported, ringed,HD springed,ARP studed head,S300,PS IC,Custom EDM's,Max Spool 2 Cam,BD built 47RH auto,Meth,5" Exaust, AD 150, Punched VE Mod,2 Stage Nos,etc.
92 4x4 47RH,06 Turbo,6" with 40's on 20's,6" Stack
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Postby Jer12377 » Fri Sep 11, 2009 12:24 pm

Ace wrote:I gotta give you credit for all the research, I'm sure you know more about turbos than I do by now! But you may be over-thinking this a tad. You need a bigger turbo if you want to tow with it to cool more fuel. It needs to flow more air more efficiently. Exactly which one you choose is not that important as long as it does it that.

The Hi1Cs that came on these trucks stock are great little turbos, well matched to the stock tune - 160hp. Match the turbo size to the amount of fuel you want to burn for your hp goal. My choice for a low budget upgrade would be a used HE351. I'd get a new Super40 if I could easily afford it. Maybe you just need a 16cm housing for the 40 you already have?

Thanks for the credit but all I did was learn how to use a turbo map and about the pressures and flow. You have the hands on experience and that to me is worth more than ANY schooling. I agree with everything you say that's what I'm trying to find out, however my problem is how do I know which one is the correct one with out buying multiple turbos and seeing what works the best. Everyone seems to have there own preference and opinion on which one works best for them. The HE351s on eBay that Ive seen go for over $300+s&h and the super HX40s I found that seem to be a good turbo are over $1200. :shock: EBay has those "super drag HX40W" turbos, but now one seems to have an opinion on them. I haven't called the local guy yet, I think that's going to be my next move.

Which brings me to my next question, where could I get turbo maps?
93 W350 5spd, ARP studs, Denny T pin, 3200 RPM spring, Boost, Pyro, fuel, and head temp gauges, Amsoil BHAF, PS intercooler, HE351CW turbo, custom 3" intake tubes, 4" home made exhaust, Re-built GETRAG, Dana 80 with an ARB air locker....
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Postby Jer12377 » Fri Sep 11, 2009 12:37 pm

fergavs wrote:I would run a 62mm comp with a 14cm exaust housing. This will give you good spooling (probably better then the big exaust housing you have now) and it will cool up to 450rwhp. On top of that I would add the powerstroke all aluminum intercooler. If you added a set of DDP 80hp sticks you would have a great towing setup that will keep things cool. Just be sure to be conservative on your pump settings. Then when your not towing and you want to go play just crank up the pump and leave rubber strips all over town. lol. Just my opinion but it will work very well based on my experience.

Do you mean up grade my H1C or get an other turbo with those numbers? The 14cm exhaust, will that affect my top end HP? Ford intercoolers, the 7.3s are all aluminum and the 6.0s have plastic ends. The 6.0 is a thicker one and from what Ive read the 7.3 guys use them as an upgrade. So would the 6.0 one be better or at least why the all aluminum one? Thanks :grin:
93 W350 5spd, ARP studs, Denny T pin, 3200 RPM spring, Boost, Pyro, fuel, and head temp gauges, Amsoil BHAF, PS intercooler, HE351CW turbo, custom 3" intake tubes, 4" home made exhaust, Re-built GETRAG, Dana 80 with an ARB air locker....
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Postby Richie O » Fri Sep 11, 2009 3:33 pm

The 6.0 one is to big. Won't really fit in the available space. ( or so I have read )
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby Jer12377 » Tue Sep 15, 2009 3:14 pm

What is the difference between a HE351cw and a HE351ve?
93 W350 5spd, ARP studs, Denny T pin, 3200 RPM spring, Boost, Pyro, fuel, and head temp gauges, Amsoil BHAF, PS intercooler, HE351CW turbo, custom 3" intake tubes, 4" home made exhaust, Re-built GETRAG, Dana 80 with an ARB air locker....
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Postby fergavs » Sat Sep 19, 2009 4:01 pm

You would have to change to a new turbo (s300) to get the size of turbo I listed.
1990 Dodge D350 Duallie 2wd, Piers ported, ringed,HD springed,ARP studed head,S300,PS IC,Custom EDM's,Max Spool 2 Cam,BD built 47RH auto,Meth,5" Exaust, AD 150, Punched VE Mod,2 Stage Nos,etc.
92 4x4 47RH,06 Turbo,6" with 40's on 20's,6" Stack
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Postby Jer12377 » Sun Sep 20, 2009 9:58 pm

I priced the two turbos, super HX40w is around $1200 and the S300 is around $1400. Right now they are out of my budget so I found an HG351cw until I can afford the $700+ for the injectors and then the $1100 to $1400 for the turbo. The plan is delayed not abandoned.
93 W350 5spd, ARP studs, Denny T pin, 3200 RPM spring, Boost, Pyro, fuel, and head temp gauges, Amsoil BHAF, PS intercooler, HE351CW turbo, custom 3" intake tubes, 4" home made exhaust, Re-built GETRAG, Dana 80 with an ARB air locker....
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