Thanks for the info guys, a little too much info from Pete...
so here is the next question. I bottom tapped the holes, but i had to loosen the studs back up, becuase the nut would not go onto every thread if you didn't. Next, my mills at school are down due to a shorted circuit. I did not mill the tops of the rocker pedistals. If I do not use the washer under the nut it will clear the valve cover, if I do it hits. So is it ok to use the studs without the washers on the pedistals until my $900 breaker comes in? Then I will mill the vavlecovers to clear the nut and washer, it just touches the webbing.
Any thoughts.
Thanks,
Bob
In Progress: '84 Chevy Silverado dually w/19.5 rims.
1st gen, New Eras, s300, 366, DennyT, piston LP, Pacbrake, 60lbs. springs, ARP studs, Snow Perf. stage II, '97 DR IC, 4" stacks.
NV4500, 14 Bolt Locker & Dana 60 Posi w/3.73's
.200 deep by 1.1 wide as per arp instructions. i just got my new studs on thursday and am waiting for time to mill mine and resurface and fire ring the head.
93 w250 reg cab. rigged up stock downpipe to 4 inch to 5 inch exhaust from p.o. mild pump tweaks and all other stock for now. Project "smoke a little smoke". www.c-techperformance.com