Want to build a fast streetable 1st gen... help!

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Want to build a fast streetable 1st gen... help!

Postby Mr. Bob » Mon Aug 24, 2009 11:29 pm

Hello all,

Im new to this site..

Im currently running a 2002 Ford F350 7.3L all done out with 450 RWHP...

I have decided to move on and am on the hunt for a new truck.. I am going tomorrow to look at a 1990 2wd dually automatic... Chances are this engine will get built and end up un a crew cab...

So I need some help... Im a newer cummins guy, so please smack me if I ask dumb questions!!!

I want the truck to be just as fast as my 7.3L was....

So, seems common to change to a 3200 spring, Denny T pin, 2 turns on the fuel screw, 3 on the smoke screw and adjust idle...

Before going too much farther please understand that the basics will be covered.. This turck will have gauges, good TC, shift kit, intake, 4" exhaust.. all the stuff every diesel should have...

Next... I know this is a non IC truck... I plan on adding an IC when I do the fuel mods listed above...

here is where I need a little help... being new I dont know exactly what is needed..

Injectors: PODs? too smoky??
Pump: Brian Block 14mm head... can I tow with this? Sounds like not?
Fuel system.. Sounds like an electric pump is in my future? is there one better than another?? Im running a full custom system on my PSD with a fass pump and donaldson filter...???
Turbo(s) ????? Im new to cummins turbos...
Head studs.. forgot this on my list above...

Looking for like 500-550... streetable... towable...

Please help me... Im all ears!!!
Mr. Bob
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Postby peobryant » Tue Aug 25, 2009 12:37 am

For 550rwhp, that is still streetable, you'd be better off with a 2nd Gen 12 Valve. I've heard the Cummins cooling system is only good up to 450rwhp anyways, for towing at least.

The stock Non I/C injectors are good for right at, or a little under 400rwhp, and POD's are NOT an upgrade for a Non I/C truck. If you do plan on getting a set of injectors, go with a set of 6X.016's, they will support all the power you'll want.

For the transmission, Dave Goerend is the only man to talk to about a 1st Gen. Most guys don't know Dodge made a truck before '94.

The 14mm H/R is generally considered for competition use only, however there are a handful of guys running one on a street truck with good results. I still think towing would be out of the question. The key to keeping one alive is apparently a LOT of cool fuel to it, so an electric pump is a must.

If you do plan on keeping the 12mm H/R, and staying around 400rwhp, I'd go with a piston lift pump. I personally don't like the added complication of an electric pump on a 1st Gen, especially when it isn't needed, but over 450rwhp, I think an electric pump would be necessary.

As far as a turbo, for all out performance, a 62/71/14 S300 would be the way to go, but they are a little laggy, so it wouldn't be ideal for towing. A Super HX40 won;t flow as much air as a worked through S300, but they spool faster and are in my opinion, a better towing turbo.

You have a few choices regarding intercoolers. You could do with a stock 1st Gen intercooler, which Bill Gilbert has on his truck and has made over 520rwhp. You also have a 2nd Gen Dodge intercooler or a 7.3 PowerStroke intercooler. In a Non I/C truck, the 2nd Gen intercooler is supposed to be easier to install, and there is virtually no difference between a 'Stroker intercooler and the 2nd Gen. The last choice would be a custom job, like David (BC847) has on his truck.


A VE pump will generally have at least a 2:1 torque to horsepower ratio, usually more, so even though the horsepower might not seem remarkable, the torque is where a VE shines.

Also, as far as turns on the fuel screw, there isn't a set amount. 2 turns on one pump will act different than 2 turns on another. Most guys turn it until runaway, then back off a half a turn. I would leave the smoke screw alone as well. It doesn't add anymore power, just smoke.

Hopefully you find some of that information useful.
Parker
1991 Dodge Ram D350, Cummins Turbo Diesel, A518
1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
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Postby stoneagemaxx » Fri Aug 28, 2009 9:17 am

a Water meth setup might be in your future too, there are alot of benefits to it as i'm sure you already know the only prob is having a reservoir on the truck that is large enough for IE towing, if i remember correctly i believe there was even a build it yourself kit on this site but with the computer controllers i'm torn between witch way to go myself
91 d250. 2wd std cab i/c convert 3.07 rears autometer guages htt stage 3 turbo 47rh convert 2 manualy controled od an lockup turns on fuel screw .5 on smoke screw and fuel pin rotated 3800gsk timing jumped 1 tooth retarded on pump settings for now resealed ip to come in spring he351ve and full 4 in ex hopefully injectors coolertubz for the other rig thanks Tim
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Postby RumbleFish » Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:47 pm

pod's + non-ic = driving by the pyro. and as said, they arent that much of an upgrade from stock.
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Postby Mr. Bob » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:28 pm

Wow... thats a lot of good info...

So here is what happened.. The 1990 dually was not exactly what I was looking for, so I ended up getting a 1993 cummins...

So... the question remains...

Goind to run a powerstroke IC, looks like I landed an HX35 turbo from a 1998 2500 for a really good price.. going to run 4" exhaust, intake, denny t fuel pin, 3200 spring,

Where do I get more info on the piston fuel pump???

If I want to run the HX35 for a while what is a good injector to run?? I am not planning the 14mm head after further reading...

If I set my goals a little lower will I still need head studs?? Basic fuel pump mods, injectors, HX35???

What kid of power will that kind of setup bring me?? more like 300???
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Postby peobryant » Mon Aug 31, 2009 12:36 am

Mr. Bob wrote:Wow... thats a lot of good info...

So here is what happened.. The 1990 dually was not exactly what I was looking for, so I ended up getting a 1993 cummins...

So... the question remains...

Goind to run a powerstroke IC, looks like I landed an HX35 turbo from a 1998 2500 for a really good price.. going to run 4" exhaust, intake, denny t fuel pin, 3200 spring,

Where do I get more info on the piston fuel pump???

If I want to run the HX35 for a while what is a good injector to run?? I am not planning the 14mm head after further reading...

If I set my goals a little lower will I still need head studs?? Basic fuel pump mods, injectors, HX35???

What kid of power will that kind of setup bring me?? more like 300???


An HX35 isn't really considered an upgrade for an intercooled truck. It's compressor wheel is only 2mm bigger (if I recall correctly) but it does have a MWE slot, and they came with 12cm housings. They do have a sweet whistle when you take the silencer out though. If it is more than $100, I'd pass on it.

With a factory I/Ced truck, you would be fine running the stock intercooled, but a 'Stroker cooler in definitely an upgrade. Bill Gilbert just made 556rwhp with a stock 1st Gen intercooler.

With 300rwhp, I personally don't feel that studs are needed, and you would definitely have enough power to tow all you wanted. I'm not sure how an HX35 would cool 300rwhp used for towing. Someone with more experience will chime in.
Parker
1991 Dodge Ram D350, Cummins Turbo Diesel, A518
1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
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Postby Richie O » Mon Aug 31, 2009 5:06 pm

My 93 is under 300. ( Im guessing ) and the 60 mm gds will not cool it so I expect the hx35 will not either. As far as horsepower is concerened the stock intercooler will make plenty of power , but the powerstroke intercooler will cool things a little better and let you use the power alittle longer. :D
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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