How to make a valet switch?

[FRadisi]

I can't find any definitive how-to and was wondering if anyone knew how to make a valet switch on the boost line to the AFC?

[PToombs]

Piece of cake! Get a solenoid, I used a 6JJ52 from Graingers, 12 volt, 1/8 npt ports. You need to put it in line with the AFC hose. The head is 1/8npt, so get fittings and hose to connect the solenoid. I used the original line from the soleniod to the AFC, and the hose from the head to the solenoid. Some people rethread the AFC hole to 1/8 npt, easy to do, I didn't want to. Just plumb it in, wire it to a switch, and turn it on when you need to. I'll find pics and post them for you.

[FRadisi]

Thanks for the info and pics Pete!

Just one question, how does the solenoid work? Does it have some internal "flapper" that cuts off a lot of the boost going to the pump?

[DieselSharker]

Bahaha I see at least one person listens to me. I know of a thread from someone who made one with just the air lines and a ball valve and ran it into the cab if you'd like me to look for it. That's what I was going to do because anything with wire scares the crap out of me lol.

[PToombs]

It's just a plunger that goes up when the coil is energized. It may have an o-ring on it. I never took it apart to see because it works, and I like it that way.

Chris, I thought they did drug testing in the service? Or did you start when you got out?
j/k That's a real 1/2 assed way to do it, the long lines add a delay before the cone starts to move. I guess sometimes you have to work with what you have.

[DieselSharker]

It's just a plunger that goes up when the coil is energized. It may have an o-ring on it. I never took it apart to see because it works, and I like it that way.

Chris, I thought they did drug testing in the service? Or did you start when you got out?
j/k That's a real 1/2 assed way to do it, the long lines add a delay before the cone starts to move. I guess sometimes you have to work with what you have.

LOL I thought about that too, that's why I haven't done it yet. I have a lot of work to do the next couple weeks between putting the rear end together, changing the head gasket, putting the 60mm wheel and housing on and putting my tach in finally, might as well do that too.

Edit: I looked up that part number and it's like $34 so looks like I'll just go with the switch. Screw drilling more holes in my firewall for the hoses.

[huntinguy]

I was thinking about making a valent switch with a off and a half off setting. That way I could limit the power but not shut it all the way off. Would that work?

[PToombs]

I'm not sure how that would work. The solenoid is either on or off. If there was a way to give 1/2 flow, it would still build enough pressure to push the cone down, just slower. You almost need an electric actuator you can set the stops on, off, 1/3, 1/2, 3/4, full or whatever.

[Richie O]

You could rig a boost fooler but I would take 2 valves to do it.

[JBradley500]

That's a real 1/2 assed way to do it, the long lines add a delay before the cone starts to move. I guess sometimes you have to work with what you have.

i did it that way. i worried about the delay too. it turns out with 1/4 tubing, 40 psi of boost and 8' of tubing (or less) the delay would be .004 seconds before the entire tube was pressurized. i couldnt figure it out myself, i had to have help with the calculations. i dont think there is a disadvantage to the long lines with the valve compared to the electric besides you have to drill holes for the tubes.

its not half assed just because you didnt do it the same way.

[PToombs]

its not half assed just because you didnt do it the same way.

That's not why I said it at all. I applaud somebody doing something different if it's decent and gets the job done. I also understand trying to do things with no money to spend on it.
I said it because it looks like a farmers cob to run 2- 1/4" tubes up thru a hole hacked in the firewall to a valve wired to the dash.

[JBradley500]

Well i cant say it looks perfect if youre underneath the dash looking for it but its practically hidden from view from any normal position youd be in the truck unless you were 4' tall. I wasnt trying to start anything. I did it that way because its simple, reliable, functions the same as an electric and it was only like 20 dollars. I couldnt justify spending 60 dollars more because i would rather run electrical wires than 1/4" tubing, and have a switch instead of a valve. I guess to each his own but i just dont think its half assed, maybe my use of wire ties isnt optimal but its not like i used self tapping screws into the dashboard or something.

[RumbleFish]

...but its not like i used self tapping screws into the dashboard or something.

this is my truck. you should see all the screws, glue, and jb weld holding my dash together. and its still all broke to hell. im proud to say im responsible for none of it.

[PToombs]

...but its not like i used self tapping screws into the dashboard or something.

this is my truck. you should see all the screws, glue, and jb weld holding my dash together. and its still all broke to hell. im proud to say im responsible for none of it.

I know the previous owner!


Not necessarily saying that he did it either, just saying I know him.

[Towrocket]

What I used http://www.clippard.com/store/display_d ... ku=MJTV-3#

And the lag if any isn't very noticable. Plus I added a T for my boost gauge under the dash.

Pic if the link don't work. It's been called a "ghetto nitro switch" in my neck of the woods