my brakes ar goin dnt know whats goin out tho.

[bigbad_Canam]

bout april did the front brakes. pads, and roders. bout september did the rears. drums, shoes, 1Inch wheel cylinders. well 2day for som reason, my truck isnt really stopin. i re-bled the brakes, took the tires off and checked everything. it all looks new, u know and nothin is wet from the fluid. when im drivin and i hav to stop, she wont stop. the pedal is to the floor, but now if i pump the brakes then hit em, ther fine. not even a minute later i hit the brakes and it does the same thing.

Whats the problem. would it be bad master cylinder...? i dont know

please help.

thanks.

[ellis93]

If your not seeing fluid anywhere then its very possible that the master is going

[PToombs]

It may also be the ABS valve in the rear if it's still on there. I'd bypass that 1st, it's cheaper to buy the fittings than a master, and it's the most likely culprit.

[ellis93]

forgot about that thing.

[PToombs]

I forgot about mine after it was gone about a week. Haven't missed it a bit since.

[rebel horseman]

Eliminating the rear ABS valve will eliminate the rear wheel ABS function correct?

[ellis93]

Yep all gone. Mine never worked anyway.

[rebel horseman]

Interesting. Since you're in roughly the same climate area I am, have you had any problems with the rear brakes locking up on you at inconvenient times? How does it do in the rain without ABS?

[ellis93]

I've been rid of mine for a few months now. At the same time I turned the drums and swaped over to one ton shoes and wheel cylinders. I've had nothing happen. No skidding or sliding, just a firmer pedel and a quicker stop. Really there is no downside to it. I think that the ABS only works from like 35mph and down anyway. I know for a fact that chevy and ferds early versions do so I would assume ours do as well.

[rebel horseman]

Interesting. I'd love to have a better brake feel in my dually but I don't want to pull a Smokey and the Bandit power slide in traffic either. How hard is the conversion?

[ellis93]

All you need to do is buy the fittings to ty the two lines together at the abs unit. You already have the shoes and cylinders. I can't remember the part numbers for the fittings but do a search on here and you should come up with them. If not I'll dig in my Oreilly's receipts for them.

[rebel horseman]

I'm pretty sure these are the numbers. If it's dry this weekend I may be doing this mod this weekend.

http://www.1stgen.org/viewtopic.php?f=2 ... lete+parts

[ellis93]

That's them! I had to order mine. Good luck on the hunt.

[rebel horseman]

Posted an update on the replacement parts from my local NAPA store. The WEA numbers are right and the parts are not too expensive. I think the total is going to be just under $12 fro both fittings.

[slow_90firebird]

my master went out before, i was having to pump it to stop.

Just in case you dont know, there is a trick to changing the master without bleeding the brake lines out:

First fill the new master and bench bleed it in a vise.
Then put it on the truck with the plastic plugs in the sides with screws to stop it from dripping.
Take out the plastic plugs
Have someone get in the truck and slowly push the pedal to the floor, and hold it to the floor.
Quickly attach the lines and snug the flare nuts down tight but not too tight.
Have the person release the brake pedal and it should suck the little air bubbles back up into the resivoir.

good luck