How do you get the plastic cap off of the full power screw on the back of the injector pump. I tried to just pry on it with a screw driver but I didn't want to break anything. Another thing... After you get the cap off, it looks like it is going to be hard to get a torqs driver in there. Is it as bad as it looks like.
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
Yes you will have to use your ingenuity and monkey wrench skills. I found that a Harbor Freight curved wrench fits into the tight spot for the fuel pin lock nut, but you have to remove the wiring to the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. The pin itself I believe is just a flathead std screwdriver.
It's an anti-tamper cap, and as such it's designed to not easily come off.
At least you can tell yourself that to make your difficulty seem better warranted, anyways.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
vice grips were my best friend, clamp on and start muscling it off there... also, my screw was such that it had a little maybe 7 or 8mm head on it that i could just use a little wrench to screw it in...
good luck
1991 D350, reg cab, five speed, 4" dp 5" mitre cuts, 32 gsk, pump max, piston lp, POD injectors, S300, 3" cooler tubz, coolingmist, boost, pyro and tach... dually rockstars black, and custom fit 2nd gen towing mirrors
I like using a Gear Wrench ratcheting wrench on the lock nut and a 6mm box end on the fuel screw. That way when I lock down the lock nut I can keep the screw from turning with it. Oh yeah, take a pair of pliers to the cap a give it a good tug. Wiggle it back and forth, it should come off.
heck i went and got a new fuel screw for 15 bucks and not factory tack mark(gets stuck at body mine did)thats after i took it out and chisseled the collor off
'92 D350 cab and chassy,pump turned up with 1/8 timin,coaltriann 6x16 sticks,htt manifold,asa intake cooler tubez,south bend 13" clutch rebuilt G360,ps cooler,industrial super 62 phat shaft turbo,weldin bed. 12 Chevy 3500ltz lifted, deleted, and bed with sae 300 ss hood for new rig
Ok so I started messing with the old girl last night and I get the fuel screw out. Mine took a half inch socket on the lock nut and it took a regular screw driver on the screw. the previous owner already had it tight against the collar. I have read (I think) that you can chisel this collar off, but what then does the lock nut tighten against? Is it a good idea to take this collar off or like Randy said should I just go purchase a new fuel screw. Where would one find a new fuew screw?
I think that is about it.
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
Take the collar off. If you look at it, there should be an area on it where you can see the seam on the collar. Pry in there with a screw driver and it shouldn't take too much to get the collar off with only a couple of mangled threads. Make sure to mark the screw first so that you have a starting point when you put it back in. The lock nut will tighten against the body of the injection pump.
The best way to do this is to take it completely out so you can remove the collar without damaging it too badly, and clean up the threads before you put it back in. If they're not too bad, you just chase it with the locknut and be good to go.