Am I just Dumb???

How to make it go fast

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Am I just Dumb???

Postby Farmboy » Mon Dec 29, 2008 6:16 am

How do you get the plastic cap off of the full power screw on the back of the injector pump. I tried to just pry on it with a screw driver but I didn't want to break anything. Another thing... After you get the cap off, it looks like it is going to be hard to get a torqs driver in there. Is it as bad as it looks like.
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
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Postby PapeCAT » Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:50 am

Yes you will have to use your ingenuity and monkey wrench skills. I found that a Harbor Freight curved wrench fits into the tight spot for the fuel pin lock nut, but you have to remove the wiring to the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. The pin itself I believe is just a flathead std screwdriver.
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Postby VEfreak » Mon Dec 29, 2008 11:10 am

rip that sthi off with plyers. at least that's what i did.
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Postby Begle1 » Mon Dec 29, 2008 11:24 am

It's an anti-tamper cap, and as such it's designed to not easily come off.

At least you can tell yourself that to make your difficulty seem better warranted, anyways.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby 1991cummins » Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:47 pm

vice grips were my best friend, clamp on and start muscling it off there... also, my screw was such that it had a little maybe 7 or 8mm head on it that i could just use a little wrench to screw it in...

good luck
1991 D350, reg cab, five speed, 4" dp 5" mitre cuts, 32 gsk, pump max, piston lp, POD injectors, S300, 3" cooler tubz, coolingmist, boost, pyro and tach... dually rockstars black, and custom fit 2nd gen towing mirrors
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Postby seeker1056 » Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:48 pm

it is a 6mm and a short 1/4 drive 6mm socket on a small 1/4 drive ratchet and it is as easy as pickin yur nose to adjust lol

i used a deep socket on the 1/4 drive ratchet to remove the lock nut
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Postby SChandler » Tue Dec 30, 2008 1:14 pm

I like using a Gear Wrench ratcheting wrench on the lock nut and a 6mm box end on the fuel screw. That way when I lock down the lock nut I can keep the screw from turning with it. Oh yeah, take a pair of pliers to the cap a give it a good tug. Wiggle it back and forth, it should come off.
1992 W250, 300k, Getrag, BHAF, 4" exhaust, DDP fuel pin, Isspro gauges, +3 on the fuel screw, 3200rpm gov. spring, 16cm^2 housing
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Postby randyswelding » Tue Dec 30, 2008 6:58 pm

heck i went and got a new fuel screw for 15 bucks and not factory tack mark(gets stuck at body mine did)thats after i took it out and chisseled the collor off
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Postby Farmboy » Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:31 am

Ok so I started messing with the old girl last night and I get the fuel screw out. Mine took a half inch socket on the lock nut and it took a regular screw driver on the screw. the previous owner already had it tight against the collar. I have read (I think) that you can chisel this collar off, but what then does the lock nut tighten against? Is it a good idea to take this collar off or like Randy said should I just go purchase a new fuel screw. Where would one find a new fuew screw?

I think that is about it.
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
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Postby SChandler » Wed Dec 31, 2008 8:08 am

Take the collar off. If you look at it, there should be an area on it where you can see the seam on the collar. Pry in there with a screw driver and it shouldn't take too much to get the collar off with only a couple of mangled threads. Make sure to mark the screw first so that you have a starting point when you put it back in. The lock nut will tighten against the body of the injection pump.
1992 W250, 300k, Getrag, BHAF, 4" exhaust, DDP fuel pin, Isspro gauges, +3 on the fuel screw, 3200rpm gov. spring, 16cm^2 housing
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Postby Ace » Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:04 am

The best way to do this is to take it completely out so you can remove the collar without damaging it too badly, and clean up the threads before you put it back in. If they're not too bad, you just chase it with the locknut and be good to go.
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Postby Farmboy » Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:21 am

Thanks for the help but I think I am going to get some gauges before I do any major tweaking like that. :wrench:
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
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Postby peobryant » Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:58 pm

A pyro is a must before you do anything to the injection pump. You may want to get a boost and fuel pressure gauge as well.
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Postby Farmboy » Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:20 am

'91 Cummins wrote:A pyro is a must before you do anything to the injection pump. You may want to get a boost and fuel pressure gauge as well.


Those are the gauges I am getting.
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
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