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How to make it go fast

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Idling in Neutral

Postby Ace » Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:30 am

Yeah, I had one of those pucker moments on my first run too, only worse! The speedo cable twisted itself to death because it was too tight going into the signal generator, and it shifted out on me at about 70mph unexpectedly just running down the road. Talk about a big WHAM! I figured something had to be broke, but I guess it goes to saying how tough they (and the rest of the truck) really are.

I've found the smoothest way to drive mine seems to be idling up to stop signs in neutral with the clutch out and let the 20mph auto cut-out drop it out on it's own. Barely even noticeale sometimes.
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:56 am

i never installed the puter that controls the thing

just put a red push/pull on my shifter and a relay

GV told me that i would blow it up wired like that but i have a ton on miles on mine with no problems

(i have forgot that it was ingaged a few times while stopping and pulled away in od. i dont know exactly what that will do to the unit but i am sure it is not good for it. i am usually okay, but sometimes you have a hot chick sitting next to you talking your ear off and well, you know the rest)
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Postby flashgordon » Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:36 am

Ya i almost didn't hook my controler up, but deside i had better, so when a family member deside to barrow it and put it in 4L and over drive............. well some thing would have broke with the front end, now in 4lo and the rear end being in 4lo..... and over :grrr:

Flash.
91.0 non intercooled 3/4 ton 5sd ex.straight piped 16cm housing, timing bumped 1/16...Pump . Full power screw1/2 max with out removing the collar. Gear Vender over drive!
"NOW" with 2nt gen intercooler, turbo and 3"Coolertubz, Buy Tim (TWorline)"
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Postby Ace » Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:48 am

I doubt it would hurt anything, just kick in or out by itself depending on your switch position when the line pressure gets high enough to engage the hydraulic servo or whatever it is inside the thing that throws it in and out of gear.

But it definitley would be a very BAD idea to have it engaged in 4x, under any circumstances.
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Postby flashgordon » Wed Nov 14, 2007 12:36 pm

I have to turn my over drive off, and the back on, if i came to a stop with it in over drive.


Flash
91.0 non intercooled 3/4 ton 5sd ex.straight piped 16cm housing, timing bumped 1/16...Pump . Full power screw1/2 max with out removing the collar. Gear Vender over drive!
"NOW" with 2nt gen intercooler, turbo and 3"Coolertubz, Buy Tim (TWorline)"
flashgordon
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Postby GPSMatt » Wed Nov 14, 2007 12:52 pm

mine got stuck in od and didnt want to go backwards verry good
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:00 pm

well that is prob why there are chunks in the pan
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Postby GPSMatt » Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:12 pm

yeah as soon as i unpluged the wires from the solenoid it was fine
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Postby GPSMatt » Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:05 pm

I just got a nother truck with one in it and some tiimes it doesnt want to stay engaged will shift in and out really hard any ideas?
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Postby DTanklage » Tue Jan 15, 2008 3:46 am

fluid is good (and level is correct?)

next i would bypass the controller - hot wire to a switch and see what happens

don

also, you know you can not activate the unit until you have sufficient drive shaft speed, right?

pps - if you want to sell the unit, let me know. i need another one. got a buddy that rebuilds them too if you need his info
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Postby flashgordon » Tue Jan 15, 2008 6:58 am

DTanklage wrote:fluid is good (and level is correct?)

next i would bypass the controller - hot wire to a switch and see what happens

don

also, you know you can not activate the unit until you have sufficient drive shaft speed, right?

pps - if you want to sell the unit, let me know. i need another one. got a buddy that rebuilds them too if you need his info


And look for the shot-e wiring Job...................is it 4WD,.....if so don't remove the controller, you could brake all kinds of things if it got applied while you were in 4WD.

I would find Every wire connection he made and if its not soldered and weather seal.......repair as described.........I bet your problem go's away.

When you put it into 4wd and then back out or into 2wd you will need to turn you ign off and then back on before the GV will work again.

Flash
91.0 non intercooled 3/4 ton 5sd ex.straight piped 16cm housing, timing bumped 1/16...Pump . Full power screw1/2 max with out removing the collar. Gear Vender over drive!
"NOW" with 2nt gen intercooler, turbo and 3"Coolertubz, Buy Tim (TWorline)"
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Postby DTanklage » Tue Jan 15, 2008 11:06 am

flashgordon wrote:
is it 4WD,.....if so don't remove the controller, you could brake all kinds of things if it got applied while you were in 4WD.

Flash



why not? just for troubleshooting?

btw - i have a brand new controller here that i am not going to use

don
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Postby DTanklage » Fri Jan 18, 2008 9:42 am

what did ya find out with the gv?
slowass 2nd gen - ADRL pro mod bike #798 - 4.26 @ 175 mph (1/8m) - how quick do you wanna go?
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Postby GPSMatt » Fri Feb 01, 2008 3:51 am

i wired up a 30 amp solinoid but didnt have time to finish running the wire back to the gv due to all the rain and sthi last week gunna finish it up this weekend the wiring was horrible for the gv among otherthings btw interested in any info on rebuilding these i have another one that i want to get rebuilt.
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GV Build

Postby Ace » Fri Feb 01, 2008 9:58 am

I did a beef-up on the GV sump/filter with the power steering resevoir from Mack truck. Has a built-in filter. I'll post some pics when I get a chance. GV sump holds over 5 quarts now.

Should be able to run for years now between oil changes, no worries. :shock:
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