Something cool I found at a local offroad expo

How to make it go fast

Moderators: Greenleaf, KTA, BC847, Richie O

Postby ford69557ci » Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:56 pm

I will stick with my ats manifold it looks cleaner and takes up less space
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
User avatar
ford69557ci
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 897
Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 4:36 pm

Postby Philip » Sun Mar 02, 2008 8:20 pm

being in the middle of Indiana in 3-4 years and have the manifold break off!


Don't worry Pete I am sure someone would donate one to get you home.
:lol:
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
User avatar
Philip
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1954
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:50 am
Location: Indiana

Postby greasemonkey » Mon Mar 03, 2008 12:14 am

GO OVRIT wrote:The KORE trucks don't heat and cool all that many times. They get hot and stay pretty hot until they're done. It does look pretty trick though.


good point. and I didn't mean they'd break right away, just not comparable to the longevity of the cast pieces. if they're tuned length runners it's probably worth it for the offroad racing guys. for them it's probably a great idea; I just think it wouldn't be the greatest for those of us that tow/haul/commute and want stuff to last more than 100k miles. it sounds weird but our engines see more fatigue and wear from heat cycles and short trips than the offroad racing engines see.
'93 250 4x4 NV4500, flatbed, club cab, ex brake, pump tweaked, too many new ideas thanks to you guys.
dubbed the "Mexican Mtn Goat"

..if you find yourself in a fair fight you did not properly prepare..
..hot rodders are the original recyclers!..
User avatar
greasemonkey
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 75
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:39 pm
Location: Central Sunny CALIFORN-I-A
Top

Postby PToombs » Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:37 pm

Philip wrote:
being in the middle of Indiana in 3-4 years and have the manifold break off!


Don't worry Pete I am sure someone would donate one to get you home.
:lol:


Thanks Philip, I know I can always count on you SOP guys! :wrench:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
User avatar
PToombs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 11369
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:13 pm
Location: Syracuse NY. Snow central!
Top

Postby DTanklage » Tue Mar 04, 2008 11:00 am

ford69557ci wrote:
I will stick with my ats manifold it looks cleaner and takes up less space



are you all retarded?

THAT is what i was talking about a while back

dont powder coat (sorry who ever that was that bought the black looking one). get the 'jet' coat (that is what the shiny one is) one, wrap the whole thing with the aspestos wrap, and hold on

when it does eventually crack take it off and have it tig welded

i wouldnt use it on a tow rig, but for the toy i think that is the only way to go
slowass 2nd gen - ADRL pro mod bike #798 - 4.26 @ 175 mph (1/8m) - how quick do you wanna go?
User avatar
DTanklage
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1183
Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 3:56 pm
Location: huntington beach
Top

Postby greasemonkey » Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:41 pm

it does look cool, has the wow factor. curious about the flow...since they're much closer to equal length, theoretically the exhaust pulses hit the turbine wheel at much smoother intervals, which makes a noticeable difference on a high revving race engine, I wonder if it makes enough of a difference on these things, under 3,500 rpm.
also wonder about the longer runner length as I've always been taught you want the smallest volume possible between the cylinder and turbine.

has anyone seen any dyno-flog comparisons? either way, I'll be picking up my cast 3 piece in a few days, hopefully installing it this weekend and never worrying about having to weld it.
'93 250 4x4 NV4500, flatbed, club cab, ex brake, pump tweaked, too many new ideas thanks to you guys.
dubbed the "Mexican Mtn Goat"

..if you find yourself in a fair fight you did not properly prepare..
..hot rodders are the original recyclers!..
User avatar
greasemonkey
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 75
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:39 pm
Location: Central Sunny CALIFORN-I-A
Top

Postby PToombs » Tue Mar 04, 2008 5:02 pm

DTanklage wrote:are you all retarded?


Yeah! So what!? :rabbit:

:lol:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
User avatar
PToombs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 11369
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:13 pm
Location: Syracuse NY. Snow central!
Top

Postby TWorline » Tue Mar 04, 2008 5:40 pm

Yeah, what Pete said!!! :tongue:
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
User avatar
TWorline
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 2480
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:32 pm
Location: Continental, Oh.
Top

Postby DTanklage » Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:10 pm

PToombs wrote:
DTanklage wrote:are you all retarded?


Yeah! So what!? :rabbit:

:lol:


no wonder i feel at home here
slowass 2nd gen - ADRL pro mod bike #798 - 4.26 @ 175 mph (1/8m) - how quick do you wanna go?
User avatar
DTanklage
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1183
Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 3:56 pm
Location: huntington beach
Top

Postby MunK » Wed Mar 05, 2008 5:20 am

When one of you buys this fancy piece of equipment let me know....I will take your old one off your hands...I looked at mine yesterday and I can't make out the bolt heads from the manifold it's so rusty.

That or I may have to dig deep and buy a ATS 3 piece as much as I don't want to.

Dumb question but..... if folks are making 500+hp with oem manifolds...am I incorrect in thinking "if it works don't fix it" in my build up?

NoRM
91 W250 Nv4500/3.55
85 W350 Crew Cab (soon to be a 6bt/Nv 4500)
MunK
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2008 2:02 pm
Location: YorK County Neb.
Top

Postby CumminsPride » Wed Mar 05, 2008 5:42 am

You run a good chance of it shrinking and breaking the ears off the head.
06 3500 AT Mega Cab SRW 4X4
User avatar
CumminsPride
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 457
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:31 am
Location: East Central IN
Top

Postby MunK » Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:30 am

CumminsPride wrote:You run a good chance of it shrinking and breaking the ears off the head.


Thank you.... Now......when I buy a new performance version...I will have an argument to tell myself that makes sense.

NoRM
talking myself into things at a rate of $500 a week or so...
91 W250 Nv4500/3.55
85 W350 Crew Cab (soon to be a 6bt/Nv 4500)
MunK
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2008 2:02 pm
Location: YorK County Neb.
Top

Postby greasemonkey » Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:53 am

CumminsPride wrote:You run a good chance of it shrinking and breaking the ears off the head.


oh, that's it? :grin:

do guys really replace their manifolds with OEM stuff when their manifold shrinks up??
'93 250 4x4 NV4500, flatbed, club cab, ex brake, pump tweaked, too many new ideas thanks to you guys.
dubbed the "Mexican Mtn Goat"

..if you find yourself in a fair fight you did not properly prepare..
..hot rodders are the original recyclers!..
User avatar
greasemonkey
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 75
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:39 pm
Location: Central Sunny CALIFORN-I-A
Top

Postby DTanklage » Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:03 am

my brother in law did but he is an idiot
slowass 2nd gen - ADRL pro mod bike #798 - 4.26 @ 175 mph (1/8m) - how quick do you wanna go?
User avatar
DTanklage
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1183
Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 3:56 pm
Location: huntington beach
Top

Postby dvst8r » Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:20 am

They said the Black coating was a new higher temp (iirc 2000F or something like that) ceramic coating, not powder coat.
1990 W250 non ic'd. Under the knife again.
User avatar
dvst8r
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Thu Feb 28, 2008 9:52 pm
Location: Airdrie, AB Canada
Top

PreviousNext

Return to The good stuff

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 33 guests