Motor locked up?

[ellis93]

Could it be that little dowel pin right above the vacuum pump that engages the cam gear has gotten stuck?

You do realize that dowel is plastic right? It's made that way so it breaks and doesn't ruin anything when you forget and leave it in.



And you were doing so well too.............

Now that was funny.

Yep,but he did fry.....uh I mean try

[oldestof11]

Grr...

Been a long weekend.

[4thesporty]

Well, on that subject, is that timing pin supposed to just pull out?

I mean, I know there are two bolts that hold it in, but mine will just pull right out. Maybe I just need to replace that Oring on it?

[4thesporty]

OK, I need some more advice here. Sorry, this is my first time tearing down an engine, bare with me....

I have 3 piston/rods out of the block. Number 1,4, and 6 I cannot get out. Number 1 and 6 are because I can't get to the 2nd bolt on the rod cap due to it's location deep within the block. Number 4 has a spun bearing. I have one bolt removed from #4 and the other is completely unthreaded from the rod, but I cannot remove it bacause it is hitting the block:




I can wiggle the hell out of that rod cap but it won't pop off for some reason. I figure it is because the 2nd bolt is putting it in a bind. I am thinking of just cutting that bolt off with a dremel (if it will fit) then pull the rest of it out and go back to prying some more. Thoughts?

I beleive #6 may be spun too by the look of the rod, but I can't see it very well. #1 is fine, I just can't get the last bolt out to remove that piston.

A friend had an idea to just remove the crank with the rods and pistons attached, then deal with it out of the block, but I need to remove the cam to get the front cover off before I can pull the crank and because the engine won't rotate I can't get to the bolts to pull the cam retainer.

This is starting to suck!

[dazedandconfused]

If you can get one bolt on each rod loose then you should be able to force it around. This may involve beating on pistons with dead blow to help move everything. Were the pistons a pain to beat out? Try barring it over and smack the piston which ever way it should be going. Like i said though if you can get caps s little loose you should be able to bring it around.

[4thesporty]

The pistons I removed came out easily. For numbers 1 and 6 I can't get to one bolt on each of them so they are still torqued, but the other bolt on those rods are out.

I'll try hitting the pistons too to move the crank, i haven't done that yet.

[4thesporty]

The crank spins, finally!

A friend let me use one of those u-joint sockets in 12mm, then I was able to hold my tongue just right and got those last bolts loose

Spun rod bearings on 4 and 6. Number four bearing welded itself to the rod cap. I have a lead on a set of 12v rods so, hopefully that will come through as I am NOT reusing these two charred ones.

Here are the pics of the jounal damage. Taking everything to the machine shop next Monday to get cleaned up and measured.






All other crank journals look good, and all the other bearings look brand new. Tappets are all good, though will get a regrind or replaced with 24V tappets.

I am thinking about having the pistons and bearings coated, but need to do more research on this subject. Also thinking about a cam regrind, or aftermarket. Again, more reserch is needed here. I will probably go with a rebuild kit from one of the usual places utilizing the "big bowl" pistons. I need to wait and see what oversize bearings/pistons I will need, or if I need to start looking for a new crank and get standard size stuff. BTW, piston walls all look good with only the carbon ring on top, so I think a hone job is all that is needed. The pistons that came out were standard size pistons. I will also have the rotating assembly balanced.

I am all ears to suggestions on these ideas. I am really not afraid to overbuild the bottom end as it is something I don't want to have to do again for a long while. This will not be a crazy HP build. I only want the power of a new stock diesel truck, so somewhere around 300 HP/800 TQ is all I am shooting for. This is for a DD truck that sees a 10,000 lb camper behind it most weekends in the spring/summer/fall and a few long trips towing.

[12vsuburban]

any updates? how is the rebuild going? if you cant find good rods, normally the old ones can be resized . they grind a little of each side of the flat side of the caps then re-bore the bearing surface. if the sides of the rods are hurt at all they are usally trash though....

[draginmopars]

how many rod bearings were bad

what # cylinder position were the rods that are bad

do you know what caused the problem?

would be good to know, so that the rebuild will last

hate to see you, spend time and money, have the same problem later

edit,,, see where you said 4 and 6

[Diesel Dawg]

Crank looks pretty trashed to me. I would look for a good standard crank myself. Never had good luck with ground cranks.

[12vsuburban]

Looks like your standard ran it out of oil ....